Bobacuda

I will soon be tearing my ‘51 B3B apart for a full rebuild. Since it needs everything, I am planning on rebuilding the 218, while updating the drivetrain with a T5 (0.72 OD), Jeep Cherokee diff, and at least front disc brakes. 16” tires on original steel wheels. I want it to be able to still be a usable pickup that I can also cruise to swap meets and shows. I want it to be able to cruise around 70 mph and I don’t want to be constantly downshifting on hills. So, what diff gear ratio would you recommend- 4.11. 3.73, or 3.54?

Anyone here using the Rustic Disc Brake kit on their truck? Thoughts… reviews?

First I removed the oil pan - about 1.5” to 2” of jellified goo. I pulled the oil pump and oil line (full of goo). I cleaned all of that out, sprayed the internals with Gunk engine cleaner, then pressured washed it. After that, I used a paint brush to slosh diesel all over everything. Next, I removed the valve covers and cleaned out the gunk. Used Gunk degreaser and the pressures washer, again. After that I used brake cleaner for final cleaning, and followed that with copious amounts of PB-Blaster. I then pulled the head, no rust, so I cleaned out the exposed area of the cylinders with brake cleaner, followed by Blaster. When I tried turning it over, it would barely budge. At that time, I looked at the valves. Some were open, but their tappets were down. I used more Blaster and tapped the valves down. Lots of Blaster later, I was able to rock the crank back and forth and it finally broke loose. In my engine, it was valves seized to the guides that caused the problem.

Thanks. This gives me what I need.

The ‘51 Dodge farm truck I got back had its truck engine replaced with a car engine with a push button starter. The old starter was discarded. As I rebuild the truck (now with a ‘51 truck engine), I want to go back to an original stomp starter. I have the correct flywheel. I looked at a starter for a ‘49, and it has a different activation “arm” on the starter than my ‘53. Before I head to the only old car graveyard in this part of the world, what year models have the starter I need? A photo of a ‘51 stomp starter where I can see the arm would be great. Thanks in advance.

My ‘53 B4B is a Fluid Drive. Never had to pull the cross member to pull the 3 spd trans. Back to the problem. Have you greased the slip coupler before trying to pull the driveshaft? Can you get to the bolt from the back (tight fit)?

Disconnect the driveshaft at the diff, then you can pull it out of the slip joint at the front of the trans. Now you can disconnect linkages and pull the trans. This will allow you to put the trans on a workbench where it will be easier to get that bolt out.

Ktb - you got lucky on the rims. My truck’s 16” rims were rusted inside beyond belief. I wanted to use my original hub caps, so I sent the rims to the “Wheel Master” (I think - it’s been a while) and they removed my centers and put them in new barrels. Not cheap, but much safer than when I started.

Ktb - not totally sure of your question, but I’ll take a shot. If your clutch is frozen to the “flywheel,” you simply start unbolting the clutch. When the engine is not running, the engine is not driving the flywheel. So, the FD coupler doesn’t move, but you can turn the clutch, unless the trans is frozen or in gear. Pull the trans and the clutch and “flywheel” spin freely. For example, when I park my FD truck on a hill, I have to make damn sure the e-brake is working good, or the truck rolls off. Once it gets about 10 mph, the trans spins the clutch and flywheel to the point the engine will start turning over. The good news, you can pull it to start it. The bad news, if your brake does not hold and you did not block the wheel, you get to chase your truck down the hill, jump on the running board, open the door, get in, and step on the brakes- don’t ask how I know… When I needed to turn the engine over, I pulled the spark plugs and put the big socket on the nut that holds the pulley to the crank. If you can’t turn the engine over, pull the plugs and give each cylinder some Marvel Myster Oil and let soak. If it starts to turn by hand and stops, good chance a valve or two is stuck in the guides. If you think this is happening, pull the valve covers and watch to see valves move when turning it over. (And it turned my photo upside down.)

Like I said, another person really messed that FD unit up. He also tried welding the “flywheel” to the fluid coupler. I guess he changed the engine, found out the crank had 4 bolts, and then he tried to “lock” the coupler by welding. And for 10 yrs the pack-rat in me stashes it under a work bench… for years… sigh…

Dug through my “Why am I saving this pile?” and found the fluid drive coupler a previous person ruined. The “front” bolts to the crankshaft. You can see there is no traditional flywheel, so the ring gear is attached to FD coupler. The small “flywheel” the clutch bolts to is on the “rear” of the unit. You can see that better in the photo I found online. Posting the photos may take several posts.

The truck FD has the ring gear on the fluid coupler. The small “flywheel” is after that. It is incorporated with the fluid coupler. You can see ears of the clutch bolted to the flywheel. If you need a better visual, let me know. I think I have a damaged unit (someone tried to weld on it) that I can photo to show the flywheel.

I live a few miles outside of Comfort off I-10 (San Antonio, Boerne, Comfort…). After you remove the clutch cover, e-brake stuff, and speedometer cable you remove shifter arms and then unbolt the front u-joint connector at the back of the trans. You are then ready to unbolt the trans and pull it. It is HEAVY. When I was a pup I could jack up the front and pull it by myself - those days are gone. In the photo, starting at the back of the engine, the first is the fluid coupler. It is bolted to the crankshaft. Next is a small “flywheel” that the clutch bolts to. If you are pulling the trans, get a new, sealed throwout bearing. Don’t get one with a grease fitting (they fail because they are a pain to grease).

Where are you at in Texas? I have a ‘53 B-4-B, fluid drive. It will roll in gear because it is FD. The trans is most likely your leak, not the FD unit. I would just check the fluid level in the fluid coupler. I have a few “clean” photos from underneath, if you need some.

I have no idea why the first photo is upside down. Site mod: fixed your pic for you.... now pic #2 I have pulled the trans 4 times and the engine three times from my ‘53 B4B. I have never had to pull the cross member. The first time, a much younger me and a friend did the job in a barn with a concrete floor after jacking the front of the truck. I removed the shifting linkage and parking brake. Doing it by myself, I used a trans jack. Once the input shaft was clear of the clutch and throwout bearing, it slid right out. Might have to slightly turn the trans on a side to clear shifting mechanism. Had to lower it several times on the way out, but no problem.

Always thought it was odd that drag links come with fixed ends rather than replaceable tie rod ends. Considering the price of a new drag link, does anyone modify old drag links to use replaceable tie rod ends?

Some time back there was a discussion basically about where the number is located that goes on the title. I commented that the title number in Texas is the engine number, which caused some debate. I know my truck’s title had its engine number. I now think I know why there is disagreement over the ID number on the title. While getting our ‘54 Chev wagon inspected and registered, the inspector noted that the insurance card has a number, the old inspection sticker has another number, and the door tag was different as well. Had to figure this out to get plates. Discovered that the number on the title is the one we gave the insurance company, and it is the number on the engine block. The number on the old inspection sticker was an inaccurate transcription of the serial number tag in the door. And this appears to be where the “What is the number?” confusion appears to come from. The old Texas titles for my truck and the wagon require the motor number, not the vehicle number. It says “motor number” on the titles. However, current state registration requires the vehicle’s ID number. With this in mind, i get to go to vehicle registration with the old title, old and new inspection records, and past proof of insurance. To support all of this documentation, I will bring photos. In conclusion, in Texas your classic might be registered with the vehicle ID or the engine number.

B1BKevin - I will be making some changes to my ‘51 “Family Farm” truck. I will be swapping in a T5 trans for the OD (0.72). The one I acquired is a “World Class” from a ‘93 S10. It uses an electric speedometer. So, the GPS speedometer is a reasonable compromise. in addition, I will make it 12V for radio and starting, 12V causes instrument changes, minimum of disc brakes on the front, possibly on the rear as well, if I find a Cherokee diff with them. The truck needs everything, so the overall plan is to upgrade gearing, electric and brakes, while retaining the body and the flathead 6. Basically, had the upgrades been available in ‘51, the truck might have had them. Plus, one of my kids will inherit the truck. I am looking for long term utility and reliability. My kids don’t have my patience with old vehicles.

Who is using one, what brand, and where did you mount the GPS antennae? Are you happy with it?

ggdad1951 - Thanks for the info and fixing the photo. If I can’t find anyone selling a set, I’ll have to look at some way of making something similar. Bob

(photo rotated)

My ‘51 and ‘53 1/2 ton Dodge trucks both came with the long, “thin” mirror brackets - not the extendable type (see photo). Unfortunately, they were broken off of the ‘51. Both trucks were originally from the same, local dealership. Was this type of bracket a dealer option? Does any vendor sell them? I prefer them over the “industrial” looking brackets DCM sells.

This should be good for a laugh. The drain plug has been out for years, but the oil-muck was gooey enough to stay in. As you look At the crap the bottom of the pan, you can see where the sump was submerged. The sump is also pretty gummed up. Now, cosider the engine was upside down when I removed the pan.

Pulled the oil pan…yuck. About 3/4” of emulsified goo. The oil pump intake was submerged in it. Lots of cleanup required. Since the engine is “upside down, I pulled a rod cap. Some very light marks on crank - could not feel/scratch them with my fingernail. Pulled the inner two main caps. Once again, no scarring. Overall, the bearings need changing. And they are marked 020 on their backsides. I lubed and retorqued it all back. Next, I opened up the front end to check on the timing gears and chain. There is about 3/4 to a full inch of slack in the chain. Definitely going to be replaced. The big surprise for me was on the timing gears! They are Mother Mopar originals - stamped DPCD. Kind of hard to see in the photo. Time to start searching for parts.