Phill Powell

Thanks guys, the lense's are different depending on which side of road you drive on as they are pre-focus. Left & right hand sides on the car are the same but LHD cars are differ from the RHD cars we have. The confusion comes from the fact most(not all) RHD cars were built in(& exported from) Canada, but if it's a Canadian domestic market car then the lense's are the same as any other RHD car, so they're not unique to Canada. Your right Andy about the flutes in the glass, most RHD lense's are marked "Export". Thanks Phill

I'm looking at some '39 Plymouth headlamp glass's & the seller says they are for Canadian cars only, so being form the other side of the world I asked if they were for RHD cars, the reply was "Canadian cars only". So my question is - do you or have you ever driven on the left hand side of the road & are your cars RH drive? Thanks

I've driven my 39 Dodge up to 100mph from a standing start over about 2 miles on a 3 mile stretch, used the last mile to pull up to a safe complete stop. I beleave there was more in it but speedo only goes to 100 anyway. Car was bone stock except for 2 barrel carb 251 motor. Nothing on or in the car was new except paint(& filler), was as found with motor that was one of many sitting on floor(seized & tow started). 3.9 diff ratio. Did 95 with stock carb. I beleave that with 3.7 or 3.5 diff & a full 3 miles the 139 record is possible. I understand a big problem at Bonneville is traction. Phill

As a heads up, I'll be bidding. Advertised for one of these about a year ago, got 1 reply, gave up on the guy(to hard to deal with), hopefully I'll have better luck with you Reg. New Zealand is in between Australia & the US hope thats not a problem?

We have a serious street racing problem locally & nationwide here, so far I have had no simpathy for the clowns that choose to wrap themselves & there friends round trees or the !!!!!!!ers that do burnouts at the memorial services for them. There is a large group (not all) that you could bend over backwards for & they would still kill themselves. It's $20 per car at the drag strip up north for the day with a skid pad & all the safety equipment & still they moan about nowhere to go & the cost, yet they can spend $3000 on tyres, $2000 on stereos, $10k on paint & so on. One idiot here hit a tree so hard & fast (110mph) not only did he kill himself but also the birds sitting in the tree as well because they didn't have time to fly off !!! I also no sympathy for the parents who finance & insure their loved ones into these cars knowing full well they are up to no good. Like a lot of you I can look back & say it was dumb what we got up to, but at least we cared enough to try not to hurt anyone else & thats the difference, they have a reckless disregard. Sorry to rant but this subject makes my blood boil having had to sit in hospital next to inocent people recovering from this problem.

The worm is shimmed to preload the bearings & there is a adjuster on the top hat to adjust the sector shaft up or down. It's easy to do in the vice. The sector seals leak, so I packed mine with high pressure grease.

33 Willys & 37/38 Mopar at right of picture.

Some pump arms ride on the underside of the cam & some on the face, that is why the difference. If you feed the new one in under the cam & then lift up to get the bolts in, there will be some tension & it's a 2 handed job, once you have the holes lined up use one hand to hold in position. I gave my Dad one without the glass bowl, didn't think anything of it & we couldn't work out why the car wouldn't start, then realised he put it in upside down & it was sucking against the carb. Trick for young players !!! *Some also run on top of the cam.*

37,38,39 diff assemblies are interchangible, common ratios are 3.9 & 4.1. I think there are a couple of other ratios but they are rare (3.7 & 4.3?). Other differences are 11" brakes & a cross type pinion flange(7 passenger). Not sure if 40's diffs are interchangible, heads might. Hope this helps.

Nissan Figaro

N B R, I'm honestly not sure which Chev valves fit, I know several who have used them but never bothered to find out exactly as I've never had any trouble getting factory replacements which are of a high quality. Also I should say that the valve/port sizes I stated have only applied to 251 & 265 engines. My experience is the 237 motors had valve/port sizes similar to 218/230 motors.

We always used water or I think brake fluid to do a running decoke or it might have auto trans fluid. The last 2 might have been for other problems, it's been a while, but definately water will do the trick.

201ci had a 3 1/8 bore & smaller big end & main crank journals, also had the smallest valve & port size. So you could machine a 218/230 crank to fit & replace valves but you would really need to upgrade the cam (218/230 spec) & give it a port job, also fit later dizzy to match. If memory serves the 201 ignition timing was TDC or 2degrees after TDC(retarded), later 218/230 ran advanced 2-4degrees. Also 201 has low compression so 10 degrees may still not make it ping. Unless you have mechanical problem the 201 is noticably less powerfull on the road. Are you wanting to keep a numbers correct block in your car? Hope this is some help.

Got this with a factory alloy head by luck, right place at the right time. I can dig other stuff out if interested. P.S. how do get the thumbnail attachment? make it easier on dial up users.

Head was made by a guy in Auckland, NZ called Ron Hogan noted for his twin plug alloy heads mainly for F..ds, he is in his later years & cannot recall ever making it he has a Delco Remy dual ignition dizzy to use for it, origin unknown. He brought the head (new in wrapping) with dizzy ready to go from a guy now deceased so the true history will probably never be known.