Alexander

Hi Folks- Thanks for all the feedback! After reading your comments I was struck with a thought. Perhaps the top edge of each bushing got deformed (collapsed) during the pressing. I decided to gently file the top rim of both bushing at a 45 degree angle and that did it! slipped right in with light taping by a wood block. Once the shaft reached its nested position all was perfect. The fit is firm but turns freely by hand. Now I have to figure out how to properly center the cross shaft against the worm gear. I could not find any index marks on the body or the shaft. Doing it by eye I fear my steering wheel will be off. Any recommendation are welcomed.

I dont have a machine shop in the area and would like to give it a try myself . What size reamer would I need to look for? Thanks for the feedaback!

Hi Folks, I am experiencing a strange problem. After press fitting new bushings into the the steering box, the cross shaft does not want to slip in. Same problem on the bottom bushing. The bushings were the correct size prior to the installation but now seem to have shrunk?? Do the new bushings have to be machined after install? The shop manual does not make mention of this. Thanks

Thanks guys for the feedback. Bummer was hoping they are interchangeable. I love the idea of having one made with modern Universal joints!! Is the attached picture from Harold all I would need to bring to the drive shaft shop? Can someone maybe refer me to a write up on what is required? I know the topic has been discussed, but i cant seem to find a definitive set of procedures and parts that the driveshaft would require. Thanks

Hi Folks Anyone know if a fully assembled 1951 dodge coronet Drive Shaft will interchange with a 1947 Plymouth? Are they the same length? Flange diameter and holes the same? Thanks! Alex

I had mine off about 5 years ago. The sheet metal is probably around 20 LBS

I appreciate all the feedback! The original Gyromatic never worked so I swapped it out for a 3 speed and have this problem ever since. I am hesitated in believing its the syncro as 1st gear has no syncro. Some how for some reason the input shaft is still turning even though at a stop and clutch is fully pressed. Maybe the car has the wrong clutch? too thick?

I never greased the pilot bushing or ever touched them. I welcome any other thoughts or ideas. Thanks!

Greg Absolutely correct! Going in to 2nd before selecting 1st does help. I have been doing this trick for some time now. I am fairly certain the synchros are fine and that this is a clutch disengagement problem. I have the clutch adjustment maxed but still feel the input spinning when slowly slecting 1st. what else can I do to get more "throw" on the clutch? is there somting i can shim? Engine RPM is very low (~350)

its my understanding 1st and 3rd dont have Synchro?

Hi Folks Kind of stumped here. I switched out my Gyromatic for a manual 3 speed with Fluid drive. Everything appears to be set up and adjusted correctly. However no matter how I adjust the clutch 3rd gear will always grind when going from 2 to 3. Also when selecting 1st gear from a stop, I feel soft brief grind. After careful evaluation It feels as if the clutch plate is every so slightly not full separating??? I adjusted the clutch to the max but still have the grind. Any thoughts? Thanks

It was an honor and privilege to participate in the 2017 Greenwich Concours d'Elegance with our 1951 Dodge Coronet Convertible. To be recognized among Duesenbergs Cadilacs & Packards that are worth hundreds of thousands of dollars was very faltering. I met lots of cool people and including Wayne Carini from the TV show Chasing Classic Cars. Wayne liked the car and could not believe that was the original factory color (Kachina Bronze). The most popular attraction on the car was the "Dodge Ram". Most did not know that dodge used the Ram for short period during the early 50s.

Wow, that floor carpet looks outstanding! Is that molded carpet? I have never seen such a good contoured fit. Who sells that? Please tell us more. Thanks!

Hi Folks, The forum has been very good to me over the years. When the opportunity comes around I like to give back when I can. I finally found a viable solution for coil springs that work perfectly on my 1951 Dodge Coronet (perhaps same for 49-52). After extensive researching and trial and error, I found the following solution: Moog 8650 work PERFECT and appears to have the car siting at factory stock height or maybe .25" lower. Moog 5606 works well but the car sits lower than factory by about 1.5 inches. Moog CC850 do not work at all and the car sits on the stops ***Note the above is on a 1951 Dodge Coronet Convertible. I would like to assume the same holds true for other 6 cyl Mopars from 49-52. Hopefully this can help someone, however I do not take responsibility for your outcome. Alexander

I echo the message from rb1949. CC850 also did not work on my 1951 Dodge coronet. They were WAY too short. The car sat on the rubber stops. Perhaps these springs work well on pre 1949 Mopars?