Forty6217

I would like to find a wiper switch like this one. I drive along the road and the wipers just start working, I have pulled the switch apart cleaned it but it has not rectified the problem. I dont think that this is orginial part, they came out with a vacume system, it does seem to suit the double D punch out on the dash up in the middle of the front window. Can anyone help me or is there a more simple solution, it does appear to have a 2 speed motor with 4 wires being feed to the switch, these would be an earth, a power feed from the ignition switch and then 2 wires going to the wiper motor.

For assistance - Earl Edgerton (EDGY heads) from Santa Rosa California does cam grinds, I am sure he can grind whatever you require. He has just ground a cam for my 230, I have yet to run the engine, but friends of mine have Edgy cams and they have been very happy with the quality and performance.

Thanks for the information, I thought I had bought an unusual manifold, this Offy I have also has a 1-9/16" carb bore size. Have you heard reports of these Zenith fuel systems 228 carbs. I been advised that they are very good carb, with external main jet adjustment, slide in and options on bore size with different venturis, basically an upspected original?

Hi Andy its Mike from Canberra, it is funny you should say that the Holden strommys would fit. I pulled out my offy manifold thinking the strommys would bolt straight up, but they seem to be a different bolt centre. The stromys are too small the Offy manifold measures 2-15/16' of an inch?? When I bought the manifold in the US and I brought it back I just thought it would fit. I am not sure what is going on, is the early holden carby a different stud centre size is that why it is not correct?

These new Zenith 228 carbs are not cheap they are $650.00 each, they would have to be good dont you think?

I was hoping somone could give me some information and direction on the best carbs to run on my 230 Plymouth with a Offy twin carb manifold. The Engine is 8.5 - 9 to 1 compression, it has an Edgy ground cam 260 duration with .410 lift, balanced, head decked to 79.8cc. The Offy manifold is a twin carb 2 bolt type, of course the Demon is a 3 bolt, but I do hear you can get adaptors? The question is which are the best carb's to go for and what is the difference in cost?

Greg the engine in it now is a 230, it has a few rattles so a fresh motor will be even nicer to drive.

Thanks - She has a 20 year old 10ft paint job and it is left hook, I bought it a few years back in San Francisco and imported it in Australia. I had a look at the photo of your Coupe - nice. It is great to drive and I drive the Coupe every chance I get. I have not been to the Chryslers on the Murray before, so I am looking forward to it.

I thought that would have my turn showing you guys and gals my daily driver my Plymouth 46 Coupe. I live in Canberra Australia and travel to the States each year to go to Bonneville for Speed Week as a spanner hand for the Montana Dodge Boys Salt racing team. I met these boys in 2009 and I have been going with them to Bonneville ever since. The engine with the Fentons and twin unbolted carbs is my newly built 230 engine which was built by my mate who specialises in Flathead engines Tony Smith one of the Dodge boys. This engine has been nicely engineered, with attention to detail, it has a full oil filter pressure system, decked and other tricks. The other engine with the overdrive box sitting on it is a 230 which I picked up in Australia at the end of last year. This engine is a P28 / 125hp, it has also been rebuilt. The performance is yet to be confirmed, I did not build the engine or spec it up, so one day I will see if it performs like a P28 should. There is a big Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth and Australian Mopar weekend coming up in Australia on the 17th & 18th of March 2012, after this weekend I will fit the US built 230 in my Coupe and drive on and on.

For all who have read this thread, I have had success. Plymouth along with all the others cars made by Dodge are the best. Putting back the window regulator was not that difficult, I just had to do what we should all do somtimes -- Just stand back and have a good look and common sense will prevail. Cheers everyone, they are great cars and this is a great site.

Hi Randy Thanks for the encouragement, a friend of mine who lives in Montana has sent me some replacement parts, I received them today so over this weekend I will attack it and I will win. Cheers Mike

Hi fellows Is there no one who can help me with a bit more info on how the regulators, window winders operate in my 1946 Plymouth Coupe? Oh well we must be all in the same boat? Cheers Mike

I have had to take my drivers side window winding assembly out. I need to replace the glass and the small window winder gear. 1 -I have had a look at about 5 of my maintenance manuals and none of them clearly show a clear picture of how the assembly is required to go back for it to work correctly. Does anyone know were I can get a good picture off the internet? 2 -Another question, can you put a bit more tension on the spring that holds up the window, or will that be rectified when I change the small winder gear? 3 -Is it possible to flip the small gear so that it runs on the good section of the small gear against the big gear? Thanks Mike

Hi Robert, thanks for the info, I have not had a look at the head, it will be interesting to see and decifer the numbers all over this engine. This engine just popped up and I thought it was too good to turn down, it has been rebuilt and not yet run in a car. I was actually over in the US for Bonneville speedweek last August and picked up an engine that a good friend of mine Tony Smith built for me, he is one of the Montana Dodge Boys out of Bozeman MT. I was lucky Tony has done a lot of nice work on the engine, trick stuff like a full oil system, balaced, decked and a little bit of porting, I cant wait to fit it into my 46 Plymouth Coupe in Jan 2012. Cheers Hi Andy we have spoken I live in Canberra, one day we will meet I am sure, are you going to the Mopars on the Murray or the Hot Rod Crack run in the ACT on Ausy day. Cheers Mike

Hi I was hoping somone could help me out, I have managed to buy a Plymouth P28 engine with numbers P28 - 50188. It has a casting on the side of the engine stating it is a 1955 build. I have bought this engine in Australia, I have not seen many 23 inch engines in my travels in Australia, could this one have been delived to Australia, or do you think it is an American engine sent to Australia? Being a P28 would it have been a 125hp engine? Mike

Hi Bob A friend of mine was over from the US and in Australia just recently and he brought me over a set of the longer push rods and have I have installed them and now I feel a lot more confident with my braking system. cheers Mike

Bob That explained it all. Thanks for your help. Mike

Thanks Bob I did not know that there were 3 different types and sizes of pins. Do you know which of these pins suits which era which model and which year. Are they "case" hardened or all hardened steel? Can you give me the size of the one in the middle. from were it sits in the piston to were it seats on the brake shoe Thankyou very much, i was pulling my hair out, now i can get on my lathe and make 4 pins the correct size. Cheers Mike

Hi I have been working on my coupe front brakes now for about a week, trying to work out what is wrong and why I cannot adjust them. The drum is 10.000 in internal diameter The linings are 13/64" or 5.3mm which appears to be an oversize. However when I set it up for the heel of the lining to touch the drum with the cam it does not seem to be connecting correctly and its as if the piston is to far out of the wheel cylinder. I have set it up like this and while I have been driving i have applied the brake heavily and the rubber seal blows out and I loose all brakes, lucky the park brake is pretty good and there was nothing in front of me at the time. I have tried to understand why, are the pins the push the brake linings out to short? are they from a different model car? they measure from the end that goes into the piston to the part that contacts the shoe 3/4". (not the guide fingers) I have thought about increasing the lining thickness to 0.289" or 7.3mm, this may change the point of contact which may have a non working surface effect, dont know? I have lined up the brake shoe inside the drums and the current point of contact looks fine. I am a bit stuck, can anyone shed light on my situation. Thanks Mike

Sorry Greg G I see you have put a contact number down for Pat, would it be better if I contact this guy directly? Cheers Mike

Hi Have you sold the motor? The only issue I have is that I need to get the motor to Winnett in Montana. I was wondering if you have ever sent an engine to Montana. If you could get a quote it would be great. I totally understand if you think I am asking you to do to much. Depending on the price being right and you are willing to help me, I would pay for the engine and the freight via Paypal if that was acceptable. Regards Mike

Thanks for that information

I need some help, does anyone know if engine number P25194651 is a 230 or a 217? Does anyone have a 230 crank that is no more than .010 oversize?

Hi I have just bought a 1946 plymouth coupe with a 230 size motor in it everyone is telling me it will do 50 to 55mph. What have you done to get 65 to 75, sadly I do not have an overdrive. Cheers Mike

Hi Andy I just opened the about us section, mate, nice looking coupe. Will you get a dual carb manafold and carbs from the States?