moxieforme2

Any thoughts about what is best for 'shop' priming, or etching small prices that are sandblasted and waiting be finished primed and painted at a later time. Is there a best method/product(s) you are satisfied with that has proven itself over time. Yes, I know opinions vary, but every one desires the very best for their time and efforts. Anyone with prior experience and are satisfied feel free to chime in. Jim Masters.

Removed freeze plugs cleaned with high pressure, air, and wire coat hanger prior to attempts to remove the distribution tube. Used the 3/4 X 13 steel ruler hammered on both sides to reduce or lessen any rust bond between the tube and the block. Two months now of soaking, and constant moderate pressure. Still hasn't moved. So...I rigged 5/16" stainless rope passing through both sides of the tube, clamped and connected to a scissor jack thats straddled on two 2X4's to achieve a mechanical advantage, with enough strain as to not rip out the tubes side walls. I wet it every day or two with PB blaster, xmission fluid, brake fluid, mystery oil and add a little more pressure every day. (before I got down to business with the scissor jack). Even used mep gas to heat the water jacked ports on top and adjacent to the distribution tube while under the aforementioned strain. Any one else ever have or had as much an issue with the "rust" distribution tube. I still confident it's just a matter of time persistence and 8nH2Otubes @#!%! Jim

Funny, my manual does not have torque spec in the engine section, only on the last page. I too, as SOP torque in three increments. My manual do not even show the water dist. tube removal??? Shop Manual B1 1/2 through 3 ton and power wagon.

My B1 manual (last page in book) is clear the crank torque spec for B1-R, B1-T, and B1-V series crankshaft nut, but, doesn't list the crank bearing bolts torque for B1-B, C, D, PW etc. Is it 85 to 90 Ft. lbs, nuts/bots both same (1/2 X 20 thread)? Jim Masters:confused:

Rock auto has floor pans (square) for 49-53 B1. My 48 are long, not square. Were the 49's and up so different? And, do you think the Rock auto ones can be retrofitted or not? Jim Masters:confused:

For that price one could buy a whole project already adjusted. Jim Masters

Bud, I don't know about your bed but I was able to grab the bolt with needle nose vise grips in between the bed support. Hope this helps? Jim Masters

Graybeard, I would like the extra horn, if it is still available. Let me know. Thanks for the consideration. Jim Masters aka Moxieforme2

Appreciate the input. Obviously, the shields are black. Thanks ever so much. Jim Masters Virginia Beach, VA

Was the inside (engine side) of the splash shields originally painted the same color of the exterior? Jim Masters

Merle's, engine problem was probably stress- went away after he unloaded that humongous TV!

Used large gear puller with moderate pressure, jack to support the drum underneath, to keep the drum square with the axle, and a crowbar on two adjacent lugs/nuts to rotated the drum a little, more pressure with the gear puller, and until rotate the drum again until the drum was past the edge of the brake pads. At that point, the gear puller completed the removal. Jim Masters

Merle, I have removed all and the outer bearings, yet the brakes are to blame, i.e. sitting too long. I guess I will have to use some Yankee ingenuity to persuade them off. I use to have a power wagon and thus far not too much different. Once again, you pull through for me! Oh, by the way, Merle, you will probably be pleased to know that my truck was originally green, and will one day be it's original color. Perseverance, time, money, and more perseverance:).

The rear IS a floater, bought the proper recommended socket. The front isn't! Requesting info on drum puller; most efficient, availability, and best price, as the front drums requires a puller for removal. Jim Masters

Good thing you didn't have a "rocket" when carrying the nice 61" projection TV... Merle! But I wouldn't DWELL on it too much. Jim Masters:D

I only have had my B1D a little over a month and am concentrating on the frame as of now. Everything is separated as I write; engine, frame, cab, box, ect. I only worked on the manifolds to to place them in my electrolysis tank for de-rusting. No gasket, or resurfacing yet. Jim Masters, VA Bch.

Hope you derive as much satisfaction in owning and driving it as it looks. Kudos on a job well done! Jim Masters.

After successfully center drilling the broken bolts that hold the intake/exhaust together, (all four broken before I got the truck) the fourth was jagged, recessed and drill hole off-center. Easy-out no go, i.e. multi- heating, banging, pb blaster, and static pressure on easy-out overnight nothing would budge the bolt. Now I know empirically, just what you guys mean when you say don't fool with separating the two halves. I reassembled the two halves together, aligned the two with a straightedge along the ports, and securely clamped the two halves together. I set up the manifolds in my utility sink and directing water from my spray aerator on each individual bolt hole I drilled my new 1/4" pilot holes with a spacer on the 1/4" drill bit. Tapped each with 5/16 X 18 Nat. course thread. Prior, I used too many drill bits. With the water only used two bits.

Dodgebe4ya, Thanks for the pics. I ordered the special 8pt socket. I've yet to order the manual. This bring up a question... My b1d is a 48, my engine is from a M 1959 truck. Do I need the '59' manual for the L230 engine, as well? Sorry, in getting back so late as I have been diligently working on the truck.

There is a six pt 2-916 socket on ebay, I guessing this wont work for the drum nuts on a B1D, and that is must be a 8 pt. Any thoughts? Jim Masters

moxieforme2 email isehockey@yahoo.com

Hi Charlie, Do you have a complete set of L230 gaskets? I would be interested if you have one. Jim Masters, moxieforme2:)

For any help or assistance, I find these guys the greatest for help. No question about it! I find it relaxing to go through the forum- after I remove the grease from working on my truck and learning new things. Wish I lived closer to you guys, does not seem too many PH trucks on the forum in my area (Virginia Beach, VA). I am also new to this site. I have a B1D Express I got 1-1/2 months ago. It's down to the frame already.

Wish my back yard looked so nice, yard-of-the-year award! moxieforme2

I have searched the threads on drum removal for confused recommendation of where to get the proper removal tool. Any specific brands/ or places to purchase the proper removal tool would be appreciate. Thanks in advance... Jim Masters