Greg W 41 Dodge WC

Thank you very much. I was able to find the correct part at Robert’s. While I’m waiting for it to arrive I’ll test the JB Weld method. Fortunately, I was able to replace the water pump without pulling the front clip/radiator. Tight, but very doable.

I cracked this housing and can’t find new replacement at the usual sources. Does anyone know where to buy? If not, what is the consensus on JB weld holding up in this environment? The break could not be any cleaner. The two halves fit together like an expensive jig saw puzzle. Thx

Thanks guys. I just wanted to make certain that it didn’t serve some useful purpose that I was unaware of before I got more aggressive in removing it. My guess is that it was an adapter for a non stock thermostat and is probably attached with JB Weld or similar.

Has anyone seen this feature at the thermostat port? I’ve been running the truck forever without a thermostat which hasn’t been a problem with temperatures in San Diego, but I’d like to get it right. It doesn’t appear to be welded on, but it isn’t budging either. It prevents me from using DMC housing gasket and thermostat.

Thanks. Everything is working fine with the temporary switch. I ordered one that fits the cutout in my dashboard from DMC. I appreciate your support.

Thanks. IGN goes to coil, correct?

I am replacing my ignition switch with a temporary one until I can locate the correct part. The temporary switch will hang beneath the dashboard. Do I need to ground it? Is that the purpose of the “4th” terminal in the middle? Thx

Thanks for the support guys. Per usual, when I took my time, consulted the manual, listened to the advice of experts, disassembled and degreased everything, the job was fairly straightforward. I met my goal of removing most of the slop from my steering wheel (one of the drag link springs was broken). My installation tool is not available on eBay or Amazon however ?.

Thanks guys. I thought that this would be a quick and easy fix to take some of the slop out of my steering, but alas we live in a world of old trucks and things are rarely quick and easy ?. When I took the drag link apart, I noted that the previous owner had only installed parts 1,2,3 & 1/2 of 4 from the diagram above. When I tried to install the new kit, with spring, etc., it doesn’t all fit no matter how much the spring is compressed. That is probably why they assembled it as they did. So, back to the drawing board. I’m going to see if I can find a correct old drag link somewhere that I can rebuild properly. Alternatively, I might try to shorten the spring.

I’m about to rebuild my drag link with a kit I purchased from DMC a while back. I have never done this before and was hoping that someone who has might have some useful tips. Thx, Greg

Unfortunately not. It is long gone. Happy hunting.

You are correct JB. At the top of this string you can see how I modified them to use spring clips.

Thanks guys, I used the German “goodentight” standard with an extra umph to line up the cotter pin. Everything is back together and running well.

The $15.00 puller worked ?. I have the tie rod assembly reinstalled at the correct length, but cannot find anything in my service manual that references the proper torque for the tie rod end castle nuts. Does anyone know this spec?

Thanks very much for your suggestions guys. I was able to free up the drivers side with a couple of sledge hammer blows but no such luck on the passenger side. I’m going to invest in a tool to try to press it out.

Changing tie rod ends for the first time in my 62 years (hey you gotta learn sometime). Once I have the castle nuts off, how do I remove the old tie rod ends? I’ve tried a few hard raps on the top of the bolt via a wooden block and sledge, but she ain’t budging. What am I missing? Thanks, as always, for your help. - Greg

I’m trying to remove the front, passenger side, lower, shock mount from my 41 WC. I snapped the stud on one side and cut the frozen nut from the other. I then used a combination of heat, penetrating oil, and a big sledge with a drive pin, but it’s not budging. Any suggestions before I start drilling? Thx

I have an original 4-speed transmission (shifts well, but no synchro), an original rear axle (cleaned with new bearings and races about 1,000 miles ago), drive shaft, single chamber master cylinder, and front brake drums available from recent projects. Please note that although the hand brake band is almost new, I reused the pull mechanism on the new transmission. I also got lazy and cut the shifter arm ~2" from the hub and reused it on the new transmission. I don't have the time to facilitate shipping, but if you are near Raleigh, NC and could use any of these items, they are yours free of charge.

Part# 14-6612334: 16” x 6”, 5 x 4.50/4.75” bolt circle, 3.75” backspace. They come with hubcap “bumps.” These should be ground flat to get the best fit when using spring clips.

No. I’ll need to leave the master as is until I get the 5 psi regulators for the rear drums. In three weeks I’m putting in a Jeep 8.25” / 3.55 (replaced with 3.83) along with a S-10/T5 NWC. I’ll probably just not drive the truck until that time and include the dual MC and front back regulation as part of that big project.

Thanks for the support guys. I agree that installing a dual master cylinder is the right play and will get to that as soon as possible. In the short term I just received two 2 lb proportioning valves. I'll install those in-line to the front disks tomorrow and add a set of 5's to the rear drums later in the week.

Thanks. The caliper is completely locked. The front end is still on jackstands and after bleeding I cannot turn the rotors by hand. I have a couple of in-line 2 lb. residual valves arriving tomorrow (got to love Amazon) and will see if that relieves the back pressure on the caliper.

I converted my front drums to disk today. I used the Scarebird conversion kit sold through DCM. All went as expected until it came time to install the calipers. It was then that I discovered that I need to grind back about 1/8” where the new backing plate attaches to the spindle plate (tip of screwdriver in photo) in order for the caliper to sit properly. Once I did that everything lined up and went together well. I bleed the brakes and got proper pedal resistance. I did notice before I shut down for the evening that my rotors no longer turned freely within the caliper (they did prior to bleeding) so I’ll need to sort that before I take a test drive. This could be because I’m using my original Master cylinder without proportioning valve (drums in rear). Advice appreciated as always.

I was lucky to have an original rim, complete with springs, for my spare tire. From it I was able to determine that I needed a finish height that was approximately 1/2” above the top surface of the rim (this determined the 5/8 spacer) and a pattern that gave me an approximately 7” diameter. I bought a $3 7”embroidery hoop and then spaced the springs evenly as a jig. Once they are welded you can flex them to get a fit that is as tight as the original.

The rims I bought from http://www.wheelvintiques.com for my 41 didn’t include spring clips for the hub caps. The spring clips are available on eBay. I used a 5/8” tall threaded spacer to bring them up to the correct height.