Kels

OH.. how is it adjusted?

UPDATE: Installed a modern oil pressure gauge at the engine..Pressure is around 55-60 PSI.. So, I think I am in spec on the pressure.. The old Gauge must just read high. Havn't been driving it much to see it anything else changed.. Thx for all the advice on my car!

Can you (or anybody else) direct me to where you found these illustrations? My shop manual does not have these. THX

That is interesting.. So, you determined that the oil drip was due to the excess being able to "roll" down the tube and the screen kept this from happening? Did it completely eliminate the drop of just lessen it?

Thanks for the reply.. So where is this regulator spool located so I can check it out? Do you think this higher pressure will cause the vent tube to drip after running? I pulled the oil filter out to look at it (WIX 51080 cartridge) and by the looks of the design.. the filter can (housing) should not remain full of oil? Correct? It looks like it would always drain out after the engine sits? I will attach a pic of the oil level

HI Guys ...... I know this is a very old thread , but it seems to have the knowledge in it. I have a 1941 218 Flat Head engine that is in my show car (car is '37). It was completely rebuilt 11 years ago and installed. It has been ran VERY little since then (show car thing etc) NOW, I have decide to start driving it vs showing it. The issue I am having is oil dripping out of the crankcase over-flow tube AND high oil pressure. This car's (original) oil pressure gauge shows 80 PSI pressure at idle and driving (could be the gauge).. After it warms up a bit, the pressure drops minimally. Question#1: Is this too high? and is there another oil pressure port plug (at the block) I could plumb in a new gauge to verify pressure? Question #2: I , suspect (asking here), if this dripping from my vent tube could be related to the high pressure? I KNOW the cap is venting. It is hard to verify, but I do NOT really see signs of oil spewing out the vent tube while running. It seems to happen after you stop and the car sits. It will drip out a decent amount onto the floor. I have changed the oil (Lucas high zinc 10-30W oil) and it is VERY clean. I should also note.. I have leaks out the timing cover and rear main.. This is odd because all these were replaced and, IMO, should not leaking. Wondering if the pressure is just too high for the seals/gaskets? Long shot, I know, but, this engine was completely rebuilt and I do not think it should be leaking anywhere. Anyway.. this vent tube leak is something I want to get under control since it makes a mess on the floor and just should not be happening IMO. Looking for some answers/advice from the experts on here.. Tanks in advance!

'37 flathead 6 all new 10 years ago.. Show car so maybe has 30 miles on it.. Got it out to start driving it.. Whilst idling the crankcase ventilator tube is dripping a fair amount of unburnt oil. I do not remember having this happen before (maybe small drips here and there BUT this is a larger amount.) Is this a concern?, if so, what might be the cause? I could not find anything in the service manual Thanks in advance!

Hello So my 37 Biz coupe has split bore sizes on both the front and rear wheel cylinders. The rear has 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" with the mount bolts at 1 3/4" C-C spacing. Part number stamped in them-->22113 The front has 1 1/4" and 1 3/8" with the mount bolts at 1 15/16" C-C spacing. This is correct in my Service manual. BUT.. when I search for new rear wheel cylinders ( I need them) I get conflicting, but mostly, the 1 1/4" and 1 3/8" for bore diameters.. they show the different mounting spacing but the bore diameters are not the same as mine. here is the EBAY link that shows the wheel cylinder kits and specs--> https://www.ebay.com/itm/173593577530?epid=13024885152&itmmeta=01J0J3EB9N1EZ49K0FSFFENZJ9&hash=item286afbc83a:g:9gsAAOSw9sBdE7Fv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8CH%2FU6lK8hMnLwq6D7DP4yVZXMIXJI7x8G8v4YXgVphFtUakLaSVW5BYMIjcJw1PBY24YtzJgk748yNdaimmVXKNr7ED8MKHl%2BeFmufNJOAcxJf2uoYkkwSRfR1FB%2Fx8BWtjtlRxlfodeisqn0fAZkRMOX%2F4R%2FsWdalc2mzCIbtJlATH4lgaxclSvXjHJftr8UAyO7DTeQRFMkCXJltESW%2BWDZnNy7%2BkeBGxhnHCQfkLSyvXnMaIC%2FxgbWAZPxuFMdHYztK5SICNGPc30Gyb5wJlOWUThEVysHV2Hv%2BOwolymf2TtlnYnrmc7TuBAFEiCw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9rS5w4Rk Questions: 1) What is the aftermarket part number for the rears with the bore diameters I have? 2) Can I install the larger Bore Diameters in my rear without issues since the mounting C-C is correct, or are they too big to install? Thanks in advance!

My front end is pretty tight but has no rod end boots.. I figure if I am going to replace the boots (if I can find them.. any sources?) I might as well replace the ends as well. I usually use PST but see that they do not have anything for this rig. So, do any of you guys have a source for some correct front end parts? Any help is appreciated.. Grease is not staying in for long and making a mess LOL THX

Thanks for the link.. So, it appears that you do not replace the entire water pump housing but just the front "hub"? Is this correct?? Does it come with the gaskets needed? How much for a new pump from you?

My water pump bearing is howling on my '54 C-1-B with the 241 Poly V-8 Seems this water pump is not very common anymore.. Any of you guys have a line on a new or rebuilt water pump for this engine? THX

Mine already had those fittings installed... I figured it was factory because without them the line would sit inboard the drum.. The LHT bolts were standard on many of the early cars.. Theory behind it is the same as with all LHT set ups.. To keep from loosening since you are turing in the direction CCW..

You are correct about the recessing around the input line.. ALL of the ones that I looked at had this machining done.. So there is a little gap in that area I was just happy to be able to find them and get the brakes working. Spent most of the weekend re-doing rotten wiring so I could have some lights.. Made the park light come on with the high-beams for a little cooler look when driving.. more light too (still 6V)

UPDATE: The 52 Cranbrook upper wheel cylinders works great on the C-1

Yup.. will be doing the same (adding studs) Should make it a lot nicer for hub pulling and a bit safer as well IMO.. Plus those LHT are a pain.. I ordered those Cranbrook wheel cylinders... Should have them end of this week or early next.. Willlet everybody know if they are the correct ones or not..