Mertz

Studebaker recommends 120 to 130. I don’t think 142 is that much different. I got both the drums off the studebaker and the Plymouth with a regular puller.

I was trying to torque the rear axle nuts so I applied the parking brake figuring it would stop the drums from turning but the drums still turn. The drive shaft does not. The truck is off the ground with wheels off. I checked the ebrake and it is properly adjusted. Is my truck going to roll when the wheels are on and on the ground?

Thanks for the help. I guess since the axle nuts are castle nuts you would torque the nut but would then have to back it off to insert the cotter pin. I think I will torque the backing plate nuts the same as the Studebaker at 35ftlbs. At least I’ll know they are a consistent. I’ll torque the axle nut to the recommendation for the 3/4”x16 nut then see if the hole lines up.

I was doing the rear brakes on my studebaker and had to adjust the end play on the passenger side. I took off the backing plates and thought I would remove equal shims on each side to solve the problem. I took out a 0.03 shim on the driver’s side and tightened up the backing plate and all play disappeared from both sides. I put all the shims back in and still no end play. Long story short the manual called for torquing the backing plate bolts to 35 to 40. I looked at my manual for my truck and it has no torque spec in the adjustment description. Is there a torque spec for the backing plate and the axle nut also provided in the studebaker manual?

Could you send me the measurements in a pm. I can’t read the numbers.

The generator is in and working just fine. It no longer gets hot and is charging nicely however it still sends the volt meter crazy. There must be a field set up somewhere that is causing the problem.

I just finished installing the bushing and the armature slipped right in. I thought it would have been a tighter fit. It is all put together and seems to be spinning fine. I did a few continuity tests and in shows continuity between A and F terminals, continuity A to case and continuity F to case. Is that correct?

I believe I have found the problem and it was mentioned very early in this thread. I found a very small spot in the wire between the two coils that was bare and probably caused a short. I covered it with cloth tape and that part of the problem should be resolved. Secondly I found the bushing was ovaled and the armature was rubbing against the metal plates causing the noise and possibly the heat. I checked the armature with an ohm meter and it is fine. Do I use the ohm meter to check the coils? I need a new bushing with the outside diameter of 0.69 and an inside around 0.55 which was the measurement at the narrowest part of the bushing but it needs to be slightly smaller. Are all autolite generators using the same bushing?

I would like to keep everything as original as I can. I can get an alternator that looks like a generator.

Put on a NOS VR to match my generator, polarized it and I get the same readings. The side of the generator gets very hot pretty fast. I think I might need a generator rebuild. Can I get parts and do it myself. I already installed new brushes and a bearing.

I’m seeing voltage but can’t read it because the meter doesn’t read right when it’s running. I do get a voltage reading with the engine off. New voltage regulator will be here this week.

I found a cross reference and I bought a VRP4503B regulator. Hope it works.

I have a GGW-6001A generator. Does anyone know the correct part number for the voltage regulator for my generator? My Motors manual lists a lot of regulators but doesn’t link them to a particular generator. Is it that important and are the ones sold by our venders universal?

I used the original wire from the coil to the base of the distributor and ran it through my plug wire holder. I rebuilt the wire and tired to start the car but it wouldn’t start because I forgot to put the cap back on and flooded it. Waiting now to let it dry out. I used a 16 ga wire. I thought the noise could have been the regulator. It probably was just the engine cooling down. When I tap the battery coil I get a little spark. With the engine running it stays closed. I’m looking for a new VR.

Good point I did hear that type of noise when I turned the engine off. It lasted quite a while but didn’t find the source. All new wires and it starts and runs fine.