Mopar-Boy
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Posts
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Thanks TodFitch. I used a multimeter and found 0 volts on SW. Took off all the wires and found 0 ohms between the two posts, GAS and SW. So... pulled the meter out. When I rewired the gauge, loosening the nut holding the wire onto SW, it moved the post/backing. The back plate has holes in it just slightly larger than the posts/screws and it is held in place by notches that mate on the gauge and plate. VERY shallow notches and easy to misalign. So pulled it apart and reassembled VERY carefully and now everything works GREAT. 12V system w a digital volt reducer to 6V wired to SW. It's a bit bouncy but not bad.
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I know this is a very old post but this is the type of gauge and sending unit I seem to have in my 33 Dodge DP6. If that is the case, can I run 12V to it? It seems like the system is just looking to "mate" the resistance from the sending unit and the gauge. So my guess is the voltage shouldn't matter?
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Yep, I'm struggling with this decision for sure. Was hoping to get a lot of comments on the risks (just like these). Thanks.
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Thanks @TodFitch. I am going to use the metal floor directly behind the seat. It's amazing that the seat sliders are mounted to the wooden floor and nothing else. So I agree that it is difficult to decide the best way to mount them, AND that anything that shears the body in a 95 year old car is not likely to leave the passengers in great shape regardless of mounting position.
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@TodFitch did you put belts in your 33 Plymouth? If so, where did you attach them? Thanks again.
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The ad DID say he wasn’t certain. My money is on your assessment. It is certainly a 34! Thanks again @TodFitch!
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@TodFitch, I found what was advertised in ebay as a '35 water pump. It had the hole on top to facilitate a thermostat bypass but it had the square return vs the tear dropped return for the copper water tubes in 35 and later. This worked perfectly and seems to be holding up just fine. Not sure what years/models/makes would have had the square return AND the hole on top for the bypass, BUT it works great! Thanks again.
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@Sniper and @TodFitch, Thanks for the heads up on my PCV causing dirt and dust to be sucked into the down draft tube! Dodged a bullet... I found an old filler neck and cap and a downdraft tube from a cracked 230 block and combined them (quick welderup) and should be OK. Thanks again sirs! You can see the top of the filler tube w the original breather right behind the intake manifold.
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I know this is a VERY old post but was it resolved? Can the speedo gears in the transmission be changed? I have a three speed manual (w freewheeling...) and my speedo is off almost exactly the same as this one.
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the PCV was from my spare parts working on 60s era Mopars. Re a screen on the downdraft, THAT is a great point!
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It is a PCV! with an air/oil separator. Once I decided to deviate from stock, I wanted a bit of a steampunk look in the engine bay. I took the large vacuum port on the intake and ran it to the PCV mounted in place of the old oil filler cap. I used as much glass (old glass GM fuel filter) and copper or copper alloy tubing as possible (again just for looks). Also painted the intake and the radiator hose elbow that I made in antique copper engine paint. The vacuum loss hopefully offsets the old auto clutching mechanism that I removed and will sell once I get around to it. Hopefully reduces the amount of oil just dripping out of the downdraft tube, don't know yet... I'm going to keep the car exterior in its original paint, keep it covered in floor wax to protect it, etc.
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I'm in GA.
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GREAT idea. I will get a later model and build a backing plate that aligns w the 33 gasket, and hang on to it until absolutely necessary.
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by the way, the water pump weeped occasionally before I had the motor out. I have disassembled it w new bearings (not sure whether they are brass or bronze). Good stiff resistance to rotation. I also read that the best grease is calcium based so I have ordered some. Not too worried, just tapping into the expertise here! I just love the look of the block on the old 201s (silhouetted cylinders) and if the calcium grease doesn't manage the weeping I would prefer to macgyver a solution! It runs GREAT. Thanks to this forum!
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I have a 1933 201 water pump that is "weeping" minor amounts of water. I see numerous water pumps for 230s, 1935 and forward and wondering if I use the back plate that fits between the block and the pump, from my 201 water pump, and block the heater port on top, can I use a 230 water pump with a 201 back plate on a 1933 201? OR... better yet, does anyone know where I might purchase a rebuilt 201 waterpump?
