Ed McDermott

Hi I just noticed that in my D24 picture, on the engine side of the cross frame I have a bow right next to the cross member which sets the location of the headliner at that point. In your picture the bow is just behind the cross member. The bow behind the cross member maybe too high or the cross member is too low in the center. There probably differences because you have a L version. The cross member is in the same position wrt the door pillar in both pictures. Not sure but is seems like your cross member is bent lower from the roof. Ed

sorry hit solved by mistake

I have attached 2 photos from my 48 Dodge Custom D24. One is the roof cross member before the headliner was installed, and the second is from a picture of the headliner that I just took. I felt around it and I don't believe that I installed any foam padding to the roof for fire safety reasons. I don't see any outline of the cross member showing and feeling the headliner it seems like the headliner is taught and spaced just below the cross member. The install did take some time. Also I made my own headliner. This took two full headliner tries including two different materials before it was acceptable. I had labeled all bows before I removed the to be sure to get them back in the right place. Is it possible that maybe some of the bows are not original? I have more pictures if they could help. Ed

Thanks to all for the ideas. In the past. When I first got the car, I successfully tried the slow tighten the wheel puller and wait method . it took a very long time but worked. I may reconsider the using the 7/16 die as I have one but it seemed to be a tough cut to complete. The only other ting I have not tried is to loosen the axel nut and drive the car a little. Sounds easy so will try. Ed

The studs on the drum were bad when I first got the car. Been working on it in the garage so only a little driving. I previously replaced the pas side rear drum, but had not got to this one yet. Welding the bolts on a good idea but don't have a welder. Ed

I have a 3 arm puller. The studs are left hand. I did move to other studs but similar results as all are in poor condition. I have had this drum off before which was a tuff job.

I have a 48 Dodge Custom., and I have previously (2 yrs ago) removed the rear drums with a puller to replace brake component I need to remove the rear drum again and check for a leak. The threads on the bolts are worn and one of them will pull off when cranking hard on the puller. Is there a way tp get the drum off with this condition? The drums are original and have apparently been treated rough in the past. Thanks Ed

Thank for all the information. After a lot of testing, I was able to demonstrate that the fuel inlet valve was not closing tight under the normal fuel pressure from the fuel pump. Reset the float lever and replaced the fuel inlet valve and problem solved. Thanks again Ed

Thank you again. I noticed in the exploded parts assembly drawing you provided that there is a lower pump spring showing. The dodge manual does not show this spring but the carburetor rebuild kit does. My carb does not have one and the kit does not include one. The accelerator pump does not easily return upwards so I had ordered some springs based upon the physical size of the pump shaft end and the well size . Maybe this will work. Ed

thank you very much. I am trying to find the cause of gas leak, mechanic says its from the accelerator pump. Not sure of the cause. Have new kit installed with new accelerator pump.

Hi, I am trying to correctly identify the part reference for the two power jets in the Stromberg BXVd-3 carburetor on my 48 Dodge Custom D24 with Fluid Drive. I have a leaking carburetor and I believe the cause may be a bad power jet in the accelerator pump path. The figure below shows the 2 power jets marked 55 and 56 respectively from the carburetor. The manual states #54 for both. I believe the jet marked 56 maybe bad as the center pin on it does not return above the top surface as the #55 does. Looking on line I don't find jets with the #54 or 55 or 56 number. What is the correct part ID for the jets and does anybody have a recommended source? Thanks Ed

Grill out after some issues. Attached is an image of the back side of the grill with the bolts or bolt holes annotated for anyone in the future who maybe trying to remove the grill. Ed

Thanks, that clears things up. Yesterday I removed the nuts (broke of all) from the crossbar. I was reluctant to remove the stone shield as I had removed it last summer and sanded, primed and painted it. Did not remember what everything there looked like. So today its on to the stone shield. Thanks again very helpful. Ed

Thank you. By the valance panel do you mean 1) the metal plate that goes from the bottom of the radiator forward to the bottom of the grill or2) the panel between the bumper and underneath the grill. In my car there are bolts (maybe 1/4 20 size) going from the top of the plate (#1) to underneath which I am now removing but very difficult to get out because of the coating mentioned. I will relook at everything. I have recently noticed a number of YouTube videos on 1930 Terraplanes. Really nice. One from a guy "Bad Chad" north of you.

Thanks. A few of the smaller ones did break.

Hi I am trying to remove the front grill from my 48 Dodge D24. I have removed the smaller nuts from along the top of the inside of the grill so it is loose and can move away. I have also removed two bolts (one on each side of the inside of the grill). The problem is the bottom. I am not sure or is it easy to see what holds it in. It seemed like the bolts in the bottom pan in front of the radiator were part of the bolts holding the grill in place so I have removed most but not not all of them. Then earlier owners have covered the metal and bolts with some kind on rust preventer or undercoating which needs to be removed before a socket will slip over the bolts and it is extremely had to reach some of them. My question is what holds the bottom of the grill in place, and hopefully then be able to remove the grill? Thanks in advance for any help. Below are pictures of the outside and inside for reference. Ed

Thanks All. Ed

Hi 1948 Dodge Custom. I removed the rear bumper and plate that goes between the bumper and the lower part of the trunk and fenders as shown in the two images. I was starting to strip it down to the metal and repaint it, which I have now finished. There was a material in poor condition that was attached to the plate. It was soft and almost felt like putty when I removed it. I checked the manual and Steel Rubber Parts supplier and did not find any reference to a material for the interface between the plate and body. There are quantity 6 (1/2 in) press in bumpers on the plate Question. Is there a rubber or other material used on the plate body interface? In the 2 images, I have circled the the material in question. Thanks in advance. Ed

Thanks all for the inputs. I picked up a few good hints from the posts. I was primarily interested in knowing if the front crossmember was a safe spot. Ed

I want to jack up the front of the car so that I can drop the oil pan. What is the best and safest way to jack it up and set jack stands? Ed

Hi Thanks. Managed to get rpm to 680 but won't run smoothly below that point. Checking timing today to see if its correct or needs adjusting. As I mentioned in the beginning I do not have a timing mark indicator and pipe plug is plugged and cant see what is plugging it. car arrived and ran this way. made up a timing pointer and installed to use as a reference as to where I am starting so that I can always get back to it. If I can every find TDC the I will have a reference marker. Ed

Thanks to everyone who suggested an air leak. And thanks to Ken Combs for persisting as I finally understood the issue. Pulled the carb off and examined and found a linkage in backwards that gave a little resistance to the plate closing perfectly. Cleaned up a few suspicions areas , replaced the carb and was able to adjust to a smooth idle at 770 rpm. Have not touched timing yet to complete the job. It got a little cold in the garage so put off to tomorrow when its to be warmer. Ed

Thanks to everyone who suggested an air leak. And thanks to Ken Combs for persisting as I finally understood the issue. Pulled the carb off and examined and found a linkage in backwards that gave a little resistance to the plate closing perfectly. Cleaned up a few suspicions areas , replaced the carb and was able to adjust to a smooth idle at 770 rpm. Have not touched timing yet to complete the job. It got a little cold in the garage so put off to tomorrow when its to be warmer. Ed

thanks, will check more thoroughly. Ed