WPVT

The replacement thermostat for my 1954 218 flat head is available in a 160 degree version or 180 degree version. I am replacing the thermostat because the gauge showed it running a bit hot, but now I realize that was because it probably had a 180 degree thermostat in it. I like to see the gauge right in the middle, but is there any other reason to use the 160 instead of the 180 degree version ? I'm not going to be running the truck in the winter, and there isn't a heater anyway.

I'm pretty sure it's original. This is a 1954 C-1, and I seem to remember that some changes were made in the housing around that time.

Thanks Jeff. Good point on the bolts. On removing them the second time I noticed they threaded right into the water jacket. In redoing the job, I set the aluminum housing onto a flat machined surface to check it out. There was more deformation than a gasket could ever compensate for, so I did a little flattening with a mill file. Fingers crossed for a leak-proof job this time around.

I am replacing the thermostat in my 1954 218 engine. Originally there was a thick paper gasket. I used a new gasket and non-hardening Permatex. It leaked profusely. Given the inevitable irregularities in the inlet neck and block mating surfaces, is silicone the only way to go ? With or without the gasket ? Thanks.

For all I know, every engine I've ever owned may have leaked through the plugs. I've never checked using soapy water, the way you'd check for a gas leak.

Ken, Thanks. They're on their way. Copper's got to seal better than steel.

I recently replaced the thermostat on my 1954 C-1-B flathead 218. Afterwards, the neck gasket leaked coolant all over the engine, so I'll have to redo it with some silicone gasket. Leaking coolant had collected in the spark lug wells, so I tried to get most of it out with paper towels. I didn't get all of it out because when I started the engine to verify the leak, I saw bubbles around all the plugs that had residual coolant surrounding them. They're torqued right down, new AC plugs with, of course, new compression washers. I'd taken them out and replaced them a few times though, and I guess that was enough to render the washers useless. I'll get some new washers. Makes me wonder how many flathead plugs would pass this "water test" ? Also makes me wonder what the effects of this small amount of leakage would be. I never saw any visual signs of leakage until I did the "water test". The plugs have really short threads, as does the head. Seems like maybe leakage might be more common than one would suppose. Any thoughts or experiences ?

Thanks. At the higher rpm's, it doesn't miss or lose power as it would with valve float. It just starts to sound noisy and "uncomfortable". Once I rig up an "in cab" tach, I'll be able to say whether this is happening at 2000 or 4000 rpm. I'm not a hot-rodder, so I'm guessing it will be closer to 2000. But better not to be guessing if this is to be a fruitful discussion.

Thanks. The heat riser is perfect and functioning properly.

Thanks. As to a tachometer, I have one,but I'll have to rig it so I can drive and watch it. I'm pretty familiar with engine ping and what it sounds like. That's not what I am hearing.

Just to be clear, is this the ping that you hear if you overload an engine at low speed, i.e., trying to go uphill in too high a gear ?

It's time for me to figure out just what my RPM's are, so I know what to expect.

Thanks. That's good to hear. So 2800 is maintainable without pushing things.

Thanks to all. I haven't verified the rear end ratio. I do know that the lowest gear isn't terribly low (3 speed) , so I expect that I have the stock ratio rear end, somewhere around 3.7 as I recall. I don't expect to run the engine at 4000 rpm, or even 3500 on a regular basis. I'm happy at 40 mph, but not the other guys on the road. So I'd like to be able to loaf along at 45 or 50. With the low end torque this engine has, it's a shame there isn't overdrive. I spent some time with the truck yesterday. Sitting still, the the engine can be brought up to higher rev's with no ill effects or unusual noises. My noise and vibration problem at 45 mph while driving, certainly sounds like it's coming from the engine, though, or maybe up front in the drive line. I know it isn't alignment, tires, etc. Maybe I need to hook up a tach I can read while driving, just so I'll know what the rpm's are.

Thanks for your thoughts, and trying to bring logic to the process. I'll take it out on a morning without traffic and pay around with the noise. I like your idea of a loose mechanical linkage, especially because it would be a cheap fix. I think vacuum issues can be eliminated as I have a steady 19 on the gauge. Motor mounts are also new and correctly tightened. It could be just a rattle I suppose, but it's such that I don't feel comfortable pushing the engine up to 50 mph. 45 mph seems like a more comfortable maximum rpm. Now that I think about it, I think it has to be engine related because the noise limits how far I want to push the engine. I don't know my rear end ratio, but I do know that low gear isn't very low, so high gear must be reasonably high. Is 50 or 55 mph a reasonable cruising speed for these trucks ?

I just drove the truck into town to my garage/shop. At 45 mph I started to hear the clattering sound, but only if I was applying gas. If I backed off at all, it stopped. Having said that, it really isn't coming from the engine being under load particularly, it's from the higher rpm's. With the truck stationary and the hoods up, there is no clatter at higher rpms. Could it be something associated with the clutch ? I know that it isn't the starter gear drive on the flywheel, so I can eliminate that possibility. The fuel pump was rebuilt recently and has a new spring. The truck doesn't make the sound going up hill in a high gear, like an engine being lugged. I'd like to try running without a fan belt, but it's in the 90's today so that's out of the question. I'm sure many mechanics wouldn't find it abnormal for a 70 year old truck engine to make sounds at higher rpm's, but this is a straight six in good shape and it should hum, in my opinion.

I couldn't tell you exactly where it is set, but a lot of thought and trial and error went into setting it. The engine will probably ping if I really load it, but that's not what I'm hearing. It's a mechanical clatter.

Thanks. I'll try listening while the truck is stationary. I'm pretty sure it's not an exhaust leak as we planed the exhaust manifold last year.

Thanks JB. I just saw in an old post someone saying that a loose chain would only show on deceleration, not acceleration. The noise in mine shows up as the engine reaches higher rpm's and continues steady all the while it is running at those higher rpm's. A slight back-off on the gas quiets it briefly.

The engine on my 1954 pickup has good compression and great oil pressure. It pulls well uphill at low rpm's, and idles very quietly and slowly. At anything above 40 mph, though, there's a clattering sound. I can't find anything obviously loose, and it has new front and rear engine mounts. The tappets haven't been adjusted during my ownership, but if they were the source of the sound I would expect to hear them at idle. Any thoughts or running tests I might try ?

Jim, I misremembered my post. It was about removing the door latch mechanism, which involves first removing the window. All of the mechanisms within the door panel get in each other's way, but if you get the sequence right, it all can be disassembled. For what it's worth, here's my old post:

A while back I posted a detailed description of how to remove the side window, as the sequence was tricky and I thought it might help someone doing it for the first time. Several months later, I had to do the other side, and couldn't remember the exact removal sequence. So my post ended up helping at least one person.

I installed the new mounts today. The spacer/washer assemblies were kept separated, the washer installed above, and the tubular spacer pushed up through the rubber from below to mate with the washer. What I ended up with was exactly what was there originally. Although the old mounts appeared to be in good shape, and weren't overly compressed, the new mounts made a big difference in the way the truck sounds and feels going down the road. So if somebody is wondering whether changing out the old mounts is worth it....it definitely is.

Thanks. I drilled and tapped the bottom of the brass rod inside the cone, tapped the plate where it had broken off, and inserted a brass threaded stud #4-40. I added some epoxy because it wasn't as neat a job as it might sound. It works and the cone seems pretty rigid. I wouldn't bet my life on it, but I didn't want to give up. If I had known ahead of time how it all worked and went together, I think I could've have done a neater job. If it fails, at least I know who to blame.

Fingers crossed. I haven't fixed it yet, but I have a plan.