Bern Pearson

I'm not exactly sure how this forum works. None of the proposed solutions worked in my application. I didn't want an entire new glass bowl with filter. I decided to take a 1941 to 62 FN filter that looked like it might fit. 41-9360GF but was a small amount too tall. I put it between two flat plates and stuck it in a vice and reduced the height. I then cut a new gasket from thick rubber and reassembled it. I haven't tried it yet as I made a mistake reassembling the carb which I am trying to rectify now. But it went back together fine, but without the screen which I couldn't make certain was centered so I left it off. I also took a much larger filter from a Ford V8 and put it in front as I need to drive the car over to my lift and din't want to crud-up the glass filter. If there's a problem with this approach I'll post it later when the carb s back on. The inline can filter can catch much more than the little paper filter, so should work for a while. Assuming, of course, the pump can draw gas through the extra resistance. Thank you, everyone. Bern

None of the filters listed by dave72dt are available. I'm wondering if I can just stuff the bowl with fiberglass and make a new rubber gasket. Obviously, I could buy a new glass bowl with a paper filter as there appears to be several available, but the plumbing would need alteration. Also, although there is about five inches of rubber tubing before the line leading to the bowl where I could, by adding some length, put in a standard metal case filter. Any thoughts on that?

Thank you. Will see if I can contact him tomorrow. I bought a 1941 to 62 FN filter that looked like it might fit. 41-9360GF and it is a tad too tall and the gasket is a tad too small. Was wondering if I could just stuff the bowl with fiberglass. My 1955 dodge had a similar bowl but a pumace stone carved to fit. You simply took out the stone and cleaned it. Thanks again, Bern

I have an unmodified 1948 Plymouth. The glass fuel bowl has no filter element in it. I see where I can buy the entire setup including glass bowl. I'd like to just buy the paper element as I'm sure I'll be changing it soon as the carb and bowl where full of junk. I saw a guy changing the filter on YouTube. The paper element came out of an AC Delco box but I can't find the part number. Many thanks in advance. Bern

I have an unmodified 1948 Plymouth. The glass fuel bowl has no filter element in it. I see where I can buy the entire setup including glass bowl. I'd like to just buy the paper element as I'm sure I'll be changing it soon as the carb and bowl where full of junk. I saw a guy changing the filter on YouTube. The paper element came out of an AC Delco box but I can't find the part number. Many thanks in advance. Bern

I have a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe with the 219 CU single barrel carb. The car is stock except for a 12V conversion. I fell in with bad company and they've talked me into switching the single barrel carb for a dual primary with secondary. But since these are V8 guys they couldn't tell me which carb might do a good job. We calculated anything from about 175CFM to 200CFM. Has anyone done this? If so: What carburetor did you use? What adapter plate? Did it improve drivability? Bolt to bolt on the carb to manifold measures 2 7/8. Thanks. Bern

thank you, Rich.

I'm not at all sure if you (Loren) are going to see this. Thank you. I found the parts. I probably surfed past them because I had no clue what I was looking for. (It's hard to find something if you don't know what you're looking for.) Not sure I can come up with something that will serve as I suspect anything I can fab will bend badly over time. Thanks again. Bern

I've refurbished the vacuum "motor" for the wipers on my P15 special deluxe. (1948) There's a hole in the dash where there must have been a switch or lever to turn them on. But there's nothing there and there's nothing under it that would connect to the vacuum motor's "selector." What does this mechanism look like. How can I fabricate or buy one? Or, must I switch to electric. (I gather I won't be able to mount the radio if I do.) Any advice is appreciated. Kind regards, Bern

I have five cars and a divorce. The Truck's a Toyota, so it doesn't even count.

Thanks for your response. Can I transfer the parts from my R10 over to the OD trans and then install it? Or, is the dissimilarity somewhere else? Kind regards, Bern

I can't tell who manufactured the Packard OD trans. It's caked with crud and the weather is not conducive to cleaning it. I bought it with a freshly rebuilt 288 Packard engine and was told it worked. The owner was converting a '48 four door sedan to a two door convertible and putting in a 350. (It looked really nice. He had engineered a folding top, which is amazing.) BTW, I didn't and don't have anything to put the engine in, but it was a rebuilt Packard straight 8 for $1000. I saw it running and he wanted less than the rebuild kit would have cost...and, I always wanted one. (Gawd am I a sick puppy? ) At some point I want a rat rod so I am collecting parts. Here are the photos. Perhaps it is obvious to someone who made it? If the weather warms up, I'll pressure wash it and paint it and get back to you. Kind regards, Bern

I am not sure how the responses work as I was going to reply to each one but can't figure out how. Turns out that at some point I bought an OD R10. Here are the photos. Will it work as a direct bolt on and what suggestions does anyone have as to what I should do as far as refurbishing it? If I pull the access plate and the gears look okay is it good to go? Do I have to shorten the driveshaft? What additional parts are required? Here's the info on the case... Any idea what it means? GM 6 8945122 ?E291 The question mark is because I can't make out the symbol 5 RIOH-1 W.G.DIV. Will post the Packard info next Many thanks, Bern

First, thank you to those who have graciously answered my questions to date. You have saved me oodles of time and a bushel basket of twenties. I have a 1948 Plymouth special deluxe with the original flat six and column actuated three speed transmission. I plan on keeping the original engine as is. The column actuated three speed transmission works fine. The problem is that I want to drive the car long distances on the highway. At sixty-five it sounds like the engine is two seconds from blowing itself apart. (It would make a great sound effect for a single seat propeller fighter heading straight for the ground.) I have a manual transmission with overdrive for a 1948 Packard. Can I adapt it to the Mopar flat six? Does anyone make an adapter? Would the same clutch work? Does anybody have advice on the plusses and minuses? What are my other options? What would the other options cost and where can I acquire the parts? Is there a modern (less expensive?) four speed? What about the gearing for the flat six's presumably lower RPM's and horsepower? There is a shop in Tallahassee that will cut down the driveshaft if needed. Many thanks, Kind regards, Bern

Than you very much. You have saved me a lot of work. Kind regards, Bern

While converting my 1948 Plymouth special delux to 12 volts discovered that the only electrical connection on the starter, the lug that goes from the starter to the starter relay, located on the fender well, was grounded to the rest of the engine, and metal on the car. It turns out the lug has some play in it and can intermittently ground or not depending on its wiggle. This car has no starter solenoid. It is a push button start with a starter relay that has one connection to the battery and another to the starter lug in question. A smaller wire goes to the starter button. The similar lug on my 1848 Packard engine starter and my '56 Studebaker also read grounded. I was going to rebuild the starter on the Plymouth, but am wondering if it's necessary. Should the single electrical connection, the lug on the starter read as ground, or do I need to rebuild the starter? Thank you;.

Thank you. I appreciate the information. Kind regards, Bern

What a wonderful offer. Thank you. I have the horn ring and center cap. I didn't show it in the photo because I thought there was a missing item that I believed I went under the center dome. Apparently, the reason the horn does not work is the wiring has bone bad. I am looking into that today. Again, many thanks, Bern

Thanks! Maybe it just has some bad wiring. I will try that.

Hey, thanks. Maybe it is all there and I have a different problem. Appreciate your effort!

Thank you for your respohse. I am missing the part that would hold the actuator, switch, away from the grounded parts. I have searched the web with only finding the one that comes as a NOS kit linked above. However, I found the Mopar Mall, moparmall.com. I bought the parts manual for my series. It seemed pricy but I searched high and low and their price was about the lowest. I could have saved about $20 including shipping from another source, but I suspicious that they might might not be real as I put in the exact title and it popped up on their site as new, but they had no other car stuff. So, manual plus shipping $63. Someone suggested I try a western states junk yard. Will wait until I have the manual so I can at least call the part by the right name. Right now I sound like my wife describing something technical. Lots of thingies, thingamabobs and whatsits. The link the the parts manual is here: https://www.moparmall.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=840-142

I have the wire and the horn relay. I am trying to locate the (Possibly ) "horn switch?" Whatever goes on the steering wheel. I am pretty sure that's the part on the left of the photo at the ebay listing. (Three down from the top.) But I only need that part. Thank you. Bern

Can anyone help me find the horn ring switch on the steering column? Where can I buy it? What is it called? Does anyone know the part number? There's a spring under the horn dome on the wheel. But no switch. Also, are there any other parts required? The photo is what the steering column looks like now. (Parts obviously missing.) Here's a link to something on ebay. I think the item I need is the third item down on the left. But I can't find it anywhere as a standalone/ 1946 1947 1948 PLYMOUTH DELUXE STEERING WHEEL HORN RING OEM #1319916 1319918 + | eBay Many thanks, Bern

Thank you.