48ply1stcar

Thanks all for your input, especially Grea235 and the many posts both here and on the Jalopy Journal,  https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/
 
Finally, after 5 years of doing other things to this car I broke down and had F-1 upper Shock Mounts installed in my car by a shop in Minnesota.  Scott Williams, Swillco Speed Shop, https://www.swillco.com/ they had a open house this summer so after talking to Scott I ordered the mounts from Bob Drake reproductions, https://bobdrake.com/ and set up an appointment.  I got to the point where I would rather drive the car than work on it, so I just had it done. I had an alignment done yesterday - still rides like a old truck but next spring is another season to play with the car.

WLS headliners, http://wlsheadliners.com/1946-to-1948-plymouth-special-deluxe-4-door-sedan-headliner.html.   I have had this for two years waiting to get this far along.  I think the color is saddle.

Tonight I lined the roof with 80/20 Cotton/Poly quilt batting.  The batting is for Queen size quilts 90x108.( Wish I had gotten King size.  Glued and and folded lengthwise. After I scrapped and vacuumed the roof I glued in the batting again using the bows to keep the batting in place.  Also, I used more glue and smoothed out the batting with my hands.
Also went to Fastenal and ordered grommets.

Easy off easy on with impact wrench. Now to remove the key to put some washers on to use the pully.

Well once again Don Coatney provided me with the answer.  Polarize the voltage regulator.  Well it least now charging.  Voltage at battery was 6.32 and no change when running.  After polarizing voltage requlator 7.5 when running with a little throttle.  At idle the amp gauge needle fluctuates and then steadys with a little throttle.

I backed out the bushings, replaced the zerk, heated the bushing and was able to get gease to go through. I going for a test ride today.  If that fixes my promblem then the bushing won't be tight against the control arm.  I tighten the bushings and went for a ride today 4-27-2020.  The ride was not a hard over bumps.  Still going to do a shock relocation, now thinking that the Moog CC850s may and still a little strong and that a schock relocation might help.

Gosh I miss Don Coatney. When I began working on my  230 replacement engine I discovered that the crankshaft was 3/8" longer.  Don talked me through that issue by showing me that he had the same issue and removed 3/8" from the bell housing so that the starter would line-up with fly wheel.  He also gave good advice on other things. 
I lenghten the turnbuckle and then lenghten the rod to the fork.  Fixed that annoying thump of the clutch pedal

Now I know why is so few threads on this subject.  Second wheel same as the first.  Easy-peasy conversion.  The hub is no different than installing any hub or the original front drum.  Once you install the bracket it's no different than any other disc brake job.
I wanted to re-locate the metal brake hose to the rear of the suspenion, but I spent too much time looking for a brake hose with a 90 degree banjo fitting.  I used a 17 inch front brake hose from an 85 Cadilac Seville and ran the hose between the shock and king pin
Still working on the master cylinder, trying to use the original master cylinder without the residual valve.  I'll let you know how that works out.

Rebuilt the Carburator 2019, March of 2020 I found a larger main jet drove the car at 70MPH

Plymouth Owners Club facebook page is where I found a possible answer. MAIN METERING JET at the bottom of the bowl.  I went through a box of extra parts and found a larger larger jet.  I installed the larger jet and made a little adjjustment on the float (Higher).  Went for a a little test ride.  Eased the car up to 70, now on a nicer day I'll do a tune-up. Tomorow I get to share the news with the Plymouth Owner's Club, Tall Pines Region spring meeting. YAY ME!!!

This what I finally did.  2000 Cherokee 8.25 Chrysler rear axle.
 
Sorry not a lot of pictures.  I had the swap done and I was too sick to hang out at the shop and pester the boys.  I bought a rusty axle from a Minnesota savage yard I found on Ebay. $150
I brought the axle to the guys at AA driveline in Anoka, MN.  They gutted the axle, then I brought it to a sandblaster/paint shop near by.  I odered all of the brake parts from Rockauto.  A 3-inch spring perch from Summit motors. AA Driveline was able use 3-inch spring shackles with the 2 3/4 inch shock mount, put everything together, installed it, and made a driveshaft.  Just giving credit to the shop for a good experience. In on a Thursday out on a Friday.
 

IT"s FIXED, I think.
Last year I removed the glass filter bowl because it was just decoration and served no real purpose.  So I added a desposal filter before the carburetor.  I cut the metal fuel line and used two short rubber fuel lines on either side of the filter.  Because I was running out of small clamps I used the claps that came with the filter.  Not tight enough.  Replaced the clamp and was able to adjust the carb.  Doing the big turn-up up today and I finally bought a real vacuum guage.
I also swapped out the bowl section of the carb with another, didn't clean it.  Someone told me that sometimes it cracks and it's almost impossible to find the crack.
As I stated in post #1 someone used their carb and it ran fine.  I'll return the loose clamp and if it runs find it definetely the float bowl portion of the carb.