harmony

Today I got brave and I put a 1 inch box end wrench on the bushing, as it is called in the manual, and then a 3 foot pipe on the end of the wrench and after a couple grunts it came loose.  I loosened it out about a full turn, pumped in some grease.  Only a small amount would go in.  Then I re-tightened up the bushing.  That tightening procedure also forced that small amount of new grease in a little further.  I repeated the procedure a few times and each time loosened the bushing just a little bit further, and I was getting a little bit more fresh grease in there each time.  After awhile the grease was going in and coming out the other end of the dust cover nicely. 
As usual, patience and persistence is the key with these old girls.

You can wire it either way.  Originally it would be wired to constant power, so that the clock would keep accurate time. ( in theory)  It requires a 3A - 5A fuse. I installed a switch on mine so I have power going to it when I want to show off that my clock works,  like at a car show or if I'm taking a friend for a ride.  Unless you drive the car almost daily, or you keep the battery on a trickle charge, the clock will stop working after awhile.  It won't be the fault of the guys that rebuilt it.  It's an inherent issue.  The clock requires current going to it to fire off the points in the clock every minute or 2 ( it can vary).  That charge resets the wheels in motion resetting the spring.  Once the spring runs down the points close, which creates a burst of energy that opens the points and starts the whole process over again.  If you put your ear to the clock you can hear a click each time that happens.
 
So the problem is, if the battery gets even a little bit low, that spark that the points require is now a little less.  The result being, there won't be enough umph to open the points.  At first they will try and make multiple small sparks trying to open, but there just isn't enough to open them, so at that point, the points will weld themselves together and blow the fuse.  So since your points are probably, or at least hopefully new on your clock, with a nice smooth points surface, and you have a fully charged battery( all the time), a 3A fuse might do the job.  However, it might not be enough and you might have to go to a 5A fuse.  When I rebuilt my clock, I was using the original points, cleaned up as best as possible, and when I was doing a bench test, I was trying to extend the "points open" time as much as possible by adjusting the mechanism.   Doing that fine tuning took a lot of patience.   I blew a few 3A fuses so I decided to go with a 5A fuse and it works fine. 
 
So if you want your clock to be in good working order, you're better off installing a switch or wiring it to the on side of the ignition switch.  Either way, you will have to always manually reset the time on your clock.  So rather than doing that every time I fired up the car ( a little annoying after awhile) I decided to chose the time that I wanted the clock to be operational using  a switch.