linenbaugh

Looks just like what i used when i made my wiring harness ,it is allso used for hockey sticks .I bought mine in a sports shop.Is this thick enough to do any good,The old stuff that i peeled of when i took the car apart was close to a millimeter thick.

I am in the progress of putting my car back to gether after 6 years of work and is wondering about anti squeak,Do you need this now when the roads are flat and much better than when these cars came out from the plant.What can be used ,Any thoughts and opinions are greatly apreciated. Anders

Thanks Pekka! Finaly some progress i will look for this at my local parts house.Thanks allso to you who looked up the specs that i couldnt find. Anders

Thanks for the input 'I have read all posts and tried to find specs on monroes page as per Don C s coment and allso Mr Hartung .I can still not find any specs as the webpage you advice me to look at tells ERROR 404 cant be found .I dont know if you cant reach this site from europe or what else is going on but it is impossible to look at the page.I guess that i have to go to a junk yard and look for shocks that can fit if noone here on this forum has any info on this subject, who knows maybe shocks from Volvo or Saab can be used.I would prefere gas charged shocks as they give a little extra traction. Anders

Thanks for the info but it did not solve my problem.My local parts house tell me that this is a us part number and that he cant find it in his european list,i tried to look for the specs, i can find my veichle but the page telling the specs is unavailable.I have read somewhere that chev 1/2 ton front shocks fit in the front but is there a newer car that has rear shocks that will fit. Sorry for not telling that my car is a -47 club coupe. Anders

hello i am working on my- 47 dodge as i live in sweden things for these cars can be hard to find ,does anybody know if there is shocks fromany newer car that will fit.I have no problems finding parts for american cars made after the -70 s.All help are appreciated. Anders

Thanks for the quick reply allready orderd ships from Poland ,Interesting to see what you get. Anders

Where can you find repros of the two id tags sitting on the firewall? I have seen them but who sells them ,All help is greatly appreciated. Anders

Thanks for your answers i think i will go with the cherokee axle as it seems to have the same track width .There are shops around gothenburg where i live that do driveshafts so that will not be a problem.I have relatives in MN living in the twin cities area so next time i am in the us i might contact Harold and ask if i can come and look at his car. Once again thanks for the help. Anders Hall

What needs to be done to fit a cherokee rear axle on a dodge -47? I have heard that the width is about the same but does the axle fit on the leaf springs ,the bracket for the swaybar needs to be taken from the old axle or fabricated but is there anything else than getting a modern drive shaft .I live in sweden and axles from cherokee is easy to find here ,but is there any other axels that fit allso.Does the axle have the same angle to align the driveshaft or do you need to tilt it up or down . Many quersions from sweden Any help will be greatly apreciated Anders

What kind of transmission are we talking about , I have one plymouth and one dodge transmission here in sweden if you are interested .They are for the column shift cars thats all i know .I do allso have some other engine parts for the flat head. Let me know what you need and maybe i can help you out. Anders

The car was put in a shop in -65 and started once in -84 .I bought it last december and had it running in a week or so and has been driving it on the farmroads around home on and of since feb or so .It has been running fine but sometimes it has been running rough like a leaky valve if you listend in the exthaust pipe .This must have been one valve sticking or so .I will try to get some kind of penetrating stuff down the stems and see what i does other wise i will pull all the valves and clean the guides. Thanks for the info Anders

I was working on the fuelpump on my -34 plymouth, took it out for a test drive and everything workrd just fine .Two hours later when i was going to start it up again the engine was spinning too fast and you could hear that the starter was running allmost whith out load .I put the crank in and cranked and got a big suprice ,No compression what so ever.I took the valve covers off and found that all of the exthaust valves where stuck open. The next day i took the head off and some valves had fallen back but when i cranked they stayed open.I tried to turn them whith a plier and they turned but was kind of tough like rubber .Have anyone experienced this ?.What can cause such a binding in the guides ?carbon or soot, anyway i guess that my guides arent in bad condition which is good. Any ideas Anders

Thanks for the photos just what i needed.I will get the window out as soon i can get some help to break the frame loose.Hopefully pictures will come soon. Thanks Anders

Ok the deal with the hinge screws is clear but i wonder how to take the frame is self apart? I can see something that looks like a joint on the sides .I havent dared to pop the windsheild yet as i think the previous owner sealed it with some kind of chaulking .When i turn the crank you see the middle of the frame moving but the sides seem to stick.I will try to post pictures of my 2 cars -47 dodge cc and the plymouth when i have figured out how to get the pictures in the right size. Thanks for the input Anders

Hello I made a barn find and bought a -37 plymouth touring sedan wich had been in storage since 1965 .The car is complete and i got it started after having the head of and freeing 4 stuck valves.The windsheild is cracked and i wonder if anyone have pictures how to remove the windsheild from the pop out frame .Any advice is greatly apreciated.A barn find like this is verry rare here in sweden as most of these old cars were totaly rusted up due to the use of road salt.

Thanks for the input ,my car is inported to sweden from the us so i guess that it is built there acording to the vin.I think that i have about 3 inches of free space in front of the pulley so i guess that itwill work if i move the radiator forward.My fluid drive converter has 8 bolts so that may allso work.Has any one changed the seal in the fluid drive ,was it hard to do ?can you do it whithout any special tools that are mentioned in the shop manual?Thanks again for the input this is a great source of knowledge about our cars. Anders

I have disasembled my engine and found out that the block is badly rusted in the bores and it is allready bored 0,60.As i live in sweden the amount of dodge flatties are limited and i have been offerd a 25 inch engine from a widsor.Will this engine fit ?is there enough room in the front for the pulley, Can you just move the front motormount 2 inches forward .If anyone has any thoughts about this ? any advice is apreciated . Anders

I have disasembled my engine and found out that the block is badly rusted in the bores and it is allready bored 0,60.As i live in sweden the amount of dodge flatties are limited and i have been offerd a 25 inch engine from a widsor.Will this engine fit ?is there enough room in the front for the pulley Can you just move the front motormount 2 inches forward .If anyone has any thoughts about this ? any advice is apreciated . Anders

Hello Iam just starting to restore a -47 D 24 club coupe ,have been building a garage now for a year as my old shop was to small.As i live in sweden the amount of parts for these veichles are limited ,and in september we will go and visit relatives and friends in USA.We will be traveling by car from Minneapolis to Denver ,Memphis ,Nashville and Chicago and then back to Mpls.I like to get parts that is expensive to send ,smaller parts can be sent relativley cheap.I like to get window rubber ,headliner seat covers,wheatherstripping and stuff like that.I do allso need a spotlight bracket that will fit my car ,i have a Unity spotlight but the bracket is not for my car. If anyone knows of junkyards along the way that allows peopole to pick parts and buy please let me know. any advice will be greatly appreciated. Anders

Yes last week i recived 2 residual valves and the seller marked them as samles on the customs form .The customs charged close to 30 USD for those ,so yes they seem to charge for what ever they get their hands on.Maybe those guys working at the swedish customs all had a bad childhood with a lot of broken toys and no friends.I know european cars that have the same boltpattern but the bearings are metric so that makes the fitting more complicated.One thing i heard of was to take the drums of the hubs and use jeep rotors but i dont know if that works. Thanks again for your replies. Anders

Thanks for your reply ,i agree with you that it is a good idea to buy the kit from olddaddy . The problem is that the swedish customs charge 25% tax plus hanling fees and duty on stuff like this and this stuff is heavy so the shipping will run high on these items.Whith all respect for oldaddys invention if i lived in the states i would definitly have bought the stuff from him but when things are as they are in this case i would like yo find the stuff here in sweden. Once again thanks for your advice Anders

Hello all of you out there. As i live in sweden i am a little interested in what kind of rotors you are using .Are they all one pice or is there a separate hub, do you need spacers to make this stuff fit on your spindles ? I have acces to a laser cutter so i was thinking of making my own brackets. A list of rotors bearings and seals and which car this is for would be verry helpfull and much apreciated. Best regards Anders