FiredomeVorhese

Ok I'll just modify them, See how that goes. Lost my window to work, try again in a week. Thanks.

Damn, I was doing good and was going to get it back together today. All cleaned up, put studs in, double nut, torqued to 15lbs... can't get the manifold on, it hits the frame. I got the studs from Napa, only ones they had in the size I needed, exact same length. The fine side is longer, which I thought would be good. Nope. Didn't realize how close it fits in there. I need this exact stud: 3/8" X 1-9/16"L SS stud, Coarse side: 9/16"L, Fine side: 5/8"L. Can anybody point me to a resto site that should have the right ones?

Well, I live in a moreless warm climate so mine is now a thru hole as I removed the completely rusted butterfly assembly. It was stuck at 1/2 or more closed. I'm guessing it should be fine. If I ever replaced the manifolds with headers, there wouldn't be an assembly.

One more question, what the heck is the purpose of the spring loaded butterfly valve that attaches to the bottom of the manifold? Mine was rusted shut and it seems a part that is doomed to fail. I can't figure out what use it would have, why would you want to restrict exhaust?

Elctrolytic rust removal non metal tub 1 tablespoon baking soda for every gallon of water put part in water solution make sure battery charger is unplugged hook negative up to part put in sacrificial metal, make sure not to touch part, more metal the better string together with alligator clips or other conductive means hook positive to sacrificial metal turn batter charger to 12V 6Amp plug in watch the bubbles run for 12 hours or however long part needs converts rust back to iron ore. Part will have black scale use green scotch brite to take off most of it soap and water bam

I didn't even notice they were coarse and fine until you mentioned it.

I've been reading all the manifold stud related posts and still have some questions. I cracked my exhaust manifold on my 53 Firedome. It was a nightmare to get out, but I didn't snap any studs. Found a replacement, gave it an electrolytic bath Clean as a whistle High temp engine paint I have new manifold gaskets and exhaust flange gaskets. I want to replace all the studs/hardware. I read some of you had luck with Ace/Napa for the studs. Grade 8. Where online? How do you install and torque the studs? What's the torque spec? I can't find my manual from moving. And do you use red loctite or anti-seize? Any other advice? http://vorhese.blogspot.com/

I have one, what's the question.

here's mine

53 Desoto Firedome: 7-9 city 12-15 highway Engine is a little tired.

So I went over and helped look at his Plymouth. We checked the coil, + went to the distributor. We swapped the battery around to + ground. We then flashed the ARM to BAT on the VR. Car started just fine. We couldn't check the current coming out of the VR to the battery as the tester wasn't working. I have a couple questions. When I polarized the generator in my 53 Desoto, I actually hooked the battery up to the generator and it spun for a bit. I forget the exact process, what connects to what. Does this need to be done to the gen in the Plymouth? When I flashed the VR, it sparked for a sec. Also what would have caused this. He has a JC Whitney fuel sending unit he converted to work in the gas tank. It worked for a couple weeks, then read as "FULL" permently. When we swapped the battery, it now reads "EMPTY"

Why not Seafoam?

Yes, she just doesn't like running out of gas or dead batteries. She puts up with A LOT.

Thanks everyone!

Thanks for all the kind responses. I never knew my grandparents. I'd say the grandpa in this story is based on my Dad who lives in the Defiance area and worked as a machinist for Ingersol-Rand (Aro) in Bryan, Ohio. Everything is fictitious. I've never even owned a Kennedy tool box