realgonekatt

I did soak it in oil, but the car was down for a bit with fuel just sitting in the carb. I'll give it a try this weekend. Thanks Don. I want to have a little more fun with her before tearing in for the trans swap.

This B&B is trying my patience. I have torn it down, soaked all the pieces in ATF for days, cleaned cleaned cleaned, re-assembled with new kit/valve and soldered float (cracked) Now it starts and idles fine and even runs down the road well, nice response not too rich, all good EXEPT} When taking off from stopped you cannot stomp it or it will die, in fact, it is necessary to give it gas (clutch disengaged) Bog down, keeping peddle down until it revs out of the bogg, then you can drop the clutch and take off, hell, you can even skin the drives at that point. I was planning on two carters on an offy intake but now I am thinking of going with a stromberg. Anyone have any ideas, guesses or stories?? I thought maybe the vacuum advance but I recently installed a brand new HEI unit from Langdons' (tested advance w/ vac. pump....good) __46' p15 w/ 218" 3spd.

Yeah, I think I will just line up the dizzy as it sits and it shouldnt be a problem, this is the 3rd dist. anyhow but I need to get that bolt out sometime. I still havent adjusted my valves yet (ive put about 5k on her so far) anyhow, I think she is kinda sexy all raw and stuff but im leaning toward seafoam/cream/red eventually, after a good bit of panel beating/shaving. Ill keep yall updated and try to get a pic if/when I ever remove the crank uhhhhmmm thing.

Unrelated....just a progress pic from earlier tonight.

Wow! Its a desoto with a desoto grill! Crazy man! I personally think it looks alot better than the Barris clone. Of course my opinions have never got me very far.

Hello all, I have been looking for an answer to this odd query for some time and now, I need to solve it in order to properly time, tune and set valves on my 46' plymouth 218". From what I can tell it has a plastic crank bolt? I know that this sounds nutty believe me but a socket only served to shear off plastic shavings on the sides. I can feel inside of it as it is hollow so I can feel into the crankshaft and cannot feel the threads so I know this "thing" is threaded in. I have a spare bolt from a 47 dodge p/u spare engine (the kind with the funky shaped end for a hand start I assume) But as of yet have had no luck getting this thing out. To make it even better, as you may know, you cannot see anything due to the radiator support blocking everything. I just recieved my new electronic ignition from Tom Langdon and need to work this out tomorrow one way or another. Surely one among you has run across this? WTF man?!?!

I got my knobs (heater, lights) from Ace Hardware. They have plain black in either round ball type or a more of a mushroom type. They look good and are like $2 a pop. Threaded right on.

Very cool...Figured there were more artists in this bin of loose nuts...Im a comic book artist that just got signed with EC Comics in Atlanta and also JINX Studios (thats me) Im currently at SCAD atlanta so im a student just starting out really...The 46' appears quite frequently in my work. Perhaps one of you fine authors may be in need of an illustrator???

Bob, I remember that one on the Hamb, How can you forget that!?!? Has to be one of the cleanest I have ever seen. There isnt much on that car that hasnt been modified yet it almost looks like it could be a customized factory model its so well executed. I cant imagine just coming across the whole front of a lincoln to use...Dont see those just sitting around the bone yard very often hahaha...

I considered those blue dot Ponchy tail lights but now that I see them in action I dont really care for them as much as the stockers...Glad to see that before I went ahead with it, so thanks man. The shortened hood spears look sharp.

I really like that mercury grill. The rest of the mods are really subtle and look nice, gives me ideas as I dont plan on a chop anytime soon. Seems like I remember seeing one on here with a 40s Olds grill that looked really slick but cannot seem to find it now. On the one with the packard grill it seems that the front wheels are really tucked up in the w.wells..I wonder what is under there?? Those skirts/rockers look fantastic! I gotta say that I am still a little partial to the peaked hood, I love how he took the peak from the roof (above windshield) and shadowed it in nose job. (on the "comic book" custom I posted haha)

I used a really long smithys glasspack (speedway/$35) It has a really nice sound with my mostly stock 218". A little quiet at idle but a nice low tone on pickup. I had an all new exhaust run from the header back at my local exhaust shop for $120 and they tucked it up well above the scrape line. Maybe not nut and bolt original but Im happy with it and it seems to me that it is pretty period correct anyway.

Haha thats such a funny choice of words, Im a comic artist! Well...to each his own i suppose thats why no two customs look the same (for the most part) I do like that one as well, wish I could see the grill better. The thing I liked about the fenders on the prior pic was how well it lended itself to the frenched h.lights. Most of the headlights i have seen on p15s look kinda silly and out of place.

No, unfortunately I lost the rest when my last computer crashed. It had a really unique headliner too, beadrolled sheetmetal, soo smooth that it looked like fiberglass. One of the nicest custom p15s I have ever seen. With that nose treatment I think the frenched headlights look right at home.

Thanks for that link, I can use all the help I can get on the nose job, totally guessing. I would like to get it close to this car that was on Ebay a few years back (just the nose, dont think I could pull off that nice of a chop) I am considering keeping some of the beltline trim but shortening it quite a bit. I dont like how it wraps back toward the trunk or the short piece on the cowl side leading to the hood.

Thats an Idea, do you have any pics? I imagine you didnt weld the fender sheetmetal to the 1/2'' iron, I would like to see how that meeting point came together.

40PlyRod, I have never welded a hood and have heard lots of horror stories which is why I have tried to read everything I could on the subject. Your advice sounds pretty spot on with what I have heard. I know its gonna be the right way to do it, just thought I could cheat it maybe for awhile since Im not going to be painting the car anytime soon.(aside from red oxide primer) I was planning on welding up all the holes anyway including the big one in the trunk lid where the brake light was. Also the rocker panels are a little short without the trim spear so I have to come up with a "Skirt" of sorts. I will also attempt to peak the nose which doesnt seem nearly as intimidating as that long straight seam. Did you leave the hood on the car while you welded it?

Ever hear of using a damp towel between spot welds, for cooling quickly?

Ive been reading up on the hood quite a bit. Im fairly handy with a mig. but I would rather not risk it if I can get around it. I was considering cutting out some 1/8'' aluminum strips for each side of the inner seam for some reinforcement, bolting thru both the seam flange and strips. Prior to mating it together I was going to goo it up with f.g.bondo....and go. I figure that the fiberglass will allow for some flex. I knew a fella down the st. that did something similar to his old pickup and it still looked fine 6months later, and he lives on a dirt rd! If it goes south then oh well, try something else I guess. Im tired of my s.plug holes filling up with rain.

So I stripped all the trim off the 46' today so I can get going on the body work on my x-mas school break. I love the lines without the trim and do not plan on putting it back on. I was pleased to find minimal rust underneath, for the most part, under the running board spears was kinda rough but not outside of my range, I think. The other trim only concealed some funky mildew and lots of home made fasteners that were dripping rust down the body sides. So the plan is to 1. repair rust bubbles 2. fill trim holes/smooth 3. mold rear fenders to body 4. attempt to make a 1 piece hood with a slight nose job. Anyone ever tried to use f.glass bondo for the hood seem? had any luck? or catastophe? All of the trim is to be listed for sale, its perfect for a nice driver or polish up for show quality it is very nice. I am also listing the trunk brake light and the nose trim which are slightly pitted but will be cheap. Ill post some pics.

I was hoping to use the drag links available from s.way in custom lengths complete with new ford ends for under $100...not a bad deal.

Thanks for the info man. Do you have them as inner t.r.ends (at pitman arm) as well?

I was just wondering if anyone has tried using ford or chevy tie rod ends on their p-15? They are cheap and plentiful and I need to tighten up my steering a little. Ford uses the 7degree taper, dont know what plymouth used?

Thanks for the useful info fellas...I hate buying stuff. If I would have followed all the advice on what needs to be changed for a 12v conversion (not just here but all over the internet) I would have had to sell my car to pay for it. Most of the stock bits didnt seem to mind 12v.

Getting tired of my manual gauge ie...pull rag out of sender hole and inspect with flashlight. I got my tank from tanks inc and just noticed that they have a sending unit with stock values for $30, not a bad price. However, I am now 12v so Im thinking a runtz resistor will help marry everything.