Andrew50

Thank you for the photo of the horn. Fuel gauge seems like it is going to be a bear to get going. ?

How many quarts does this engine require? How do I tell which flathead six engine size this is?

I'll check out the Baldwin JC405 filter. It does state to us "JC" filter and gasket on the lid. Today I dropped the fuel tank and removed the fuel sending unit. I plan to replace both. Is there a specific fuel sending unit I should use with the 6-to-12 converted system? I'll keep an eye open for a horn. Is there any way to rebuild them for 12 volt application? Thank you, Andrew

Is a horn like this correct for this truck? https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Volt-Vintage-Horn-40s-50s-60s-Dodge-Chevy-Ford-Truck-Car-Works-Great-Jeep/263569749426?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc1091216bf6a41ab8dba72335b7927cc%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D263581383890%26itm%3D263569749426&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

Hello. I've taken on a project to tune and repair the truck in the subject line. This truck has very nice green/black paint and a very nice interior. My mission is to check and repair as needed. These are noted initially: Get the fuel gauge workingTune up engine including new plugs and maybe a points conversionTighten the steering (as much as possible) Check the brakes for any needed repairs. Per the attached picture it seems the brakes may be ok. Spending some time with it I have these questions: I am finding this truck in pretty good shape. The king pins allow just a little slop of the wheels when off the ground. Measured maybe .100" at the top of the tires. I doubt new kingpins will reduce this much. The tie rod ends and all are tight. The air cleaner element visually looks pretty clean, I will replace the oil in the reservoir. Any specific oil that should be used?Both ends of the front leaf spring supports need new bushings. I figured they allowing the springs to slop around negatively affecting steering.I found about 15 psi in the front tires with a large patch of rubber on the ground. With the tire max pressure at 65 I inflated the front to 50 and rear to 40. This should reduce steering effort.I tightened the steering box nut one turn. With the wheels off the ground there is no slop when changing directions. I don't want to over tighten this adjustment.I drained the oil. What oil and how many quarts for this truck? I found a metal oil filter in the filter canister that I suspect is incorrect as it is not tall enough to contact the upper clamping portion of the canister. It just sits there with no clamping pressure. I don't think the Fram PB 1/2P would fit properly. I turkey basted the remaining oil from the filter canister. Should this have one of the sock type filters?How do I adjust the timing? The book says so many degrees from cylinder #6. I will replace the plugs and he gave the go-ahead to put an electronic points conversion in the distributor. Don't know if I will or not. What do you guys think? How might I firm up the shifter linkage? Looking from below it seems in pretty good shape. I suspect the fuel gauge is not connected. Will check that out. While the underside of the truck is mostly rust free, just some occasional surface rust, the fuel tank has surface rust and an obvious leakage repair. Some kind of epoxy applied across the bottom surface. I plan to replace the tank and the gauge sending unit. This truck is 12v converted, does this affect the function of the fuel gauge? Fortunately he does have a Shop Manual B-2 Series with very good instructions even to the details of rebuilding the transmission. Fortunately rebuilding the tranny isn't needed. I initially posted questions in The Garage Journal. They were helpful but I understand this forum us where the collection of experts reside. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390297 If allowed I'll post some photos on here a little later today. I'm building a basket of parts with these folks. https://dcmclassics.com/ Thanks in advance for your help. Andrew