Hibish

Finally got around to looking at the fuel line. All of the rubber seemed dated and some cracking so I replaced all of the rubber parts of the lines. I ran a vacuum test and it seemed OK so I hooked everything back up and tried to start it. It started! I drove it for about a 3 mile test drive and all seemed sorted. Hopefully the problem is finally fixed. Thanks all for the helpful tips on this thread.

Sorry for the delayed update, but after the last trouble I towed the car home and with the heat and rain I did not get to check into until now. The new fuel pump I bought from Summit Racing indeed broke 9 days after installing it and driving the car 4 times in that span. It was not the usual pin falling out problem. The arm itself broke inside the pump housing. I took the flange off the new one and put it on my old one and manual testing showed it working. I installed it back on the car and still no fuel to the carb. I ran the inlet side into a full gas can and left the outlet hooked up to the carb. The car started right away. I guess I have a fuel line problem to resolve now. A hole or a blockage.

@andyd I am in USA near Philadelphia. Thanks for the info.

Thanks all for the replies. I went ahead and purchased the Summit Racing one I linked to in my original post. Comparing to the one I took out they look exactly same. The pin had some glue on the ends so it seems like they were aware of the walking out issues. I popped it in and the car started right up. It ran great for 1 week. Just today I am back to the original problem only this time even dumping gas down the carb for priming is not getting the car started. I'll pull it out and check for any obvious problems. Folks are telling me I may have a carb problem but I barely get any fuel in the filter between the pump and the carb and that makes me think it is likely the pump. Maybe I got a bad one. I have not returned the one from AB yet - with the straight arm - so maybe I will put it in and see. In my parts manual for the D24 both style fuel pumps are shown. The straight arm is shown on one page and another page the bent arm is shown with the initial RHD. My friend Rich Hartung (active here) tells me they make different style pumps for left hand drive vs right hand drive due to space constraints. This likely infers either would work depending on the room in the engine bay - as @keithb7 mentioned as well. @Booger I am trying to stay as original as possible, but reliability is still more important as I like to drive the car so if this keep sup long enough I'll go electric. @Loren 1) My wipers are electric. 2) I am indeed missing the heat shield you mentioned. I will order it as well since I am already working in that area. @Doug&Deb I intend to rebuild the original. Every reference I can find for that angled arm pump say it fits a Dodge B1 pickup truck so I think you might be right. Off to find that Flathead FB group. Thanks.

I have a 1948 Dodge Custom with Fluid Drive. The fuel pump stopped working recently. I ordered a new one from Andy Bermbaum (https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/p_fuel/fuel-pump-2/) based on the my car year, make, and model. Stupidly I ordered it before I took the old one out. The one I ordered has a straight pump arm and the one I pulled out has a an angled pump arm. So I am wondering if the one I ordered will work and if not which should I be ordering? I don't want to put this one just to pull it out again or worse break something. The engine in in the car has, so far as I can tell, the following numbers stamped on it: D34-25148I (on the front driver's side of the engine block) and 1311804-4 (on the top of the engine block towards the back ). I believe the engine is from a 1950 Dodge Coronet, Meadowbrook, or Wayfarer. This one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m2090/make/dodge) looks very much like the old one I pulled out. I found it by searching by Engine Types and selecting Mopar Inline 6 size 230. If I search by Car (1948 Dodge Custom or 1950 Dodge Coronet, Meadowbrook, or Wayfarer) it says it won't match and points me to another pump that looks exactly like what I ordered initially - with the straight arm. The only Dodge vehicle it says it fits is a Dodge B1 truck. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks much Don and Greg. I was looking for a definitive answer before I opened it up.

My 48 Dodge Custom started giving me starting problems about a month ago. I took out for 20 minute drive, parked it the driveway, 10 minutes later went to move it in the garage and just hear clicks. Battery less than 1 year old and tested OK. Connections test OK via volt meter. I believe I have eliminated electrical. Banging on the starter worked a couple of times to get it started, but no longer works. Replaced the starter relay since it was cheap. Started 5 times in 2 days, then 3rd day more clicks. Jumped from battery directly to starter and still nothing. Presumed starter was bad. I pulled the starter out and bench tested it and it spins in the right direction seemingly fast every time. Has me wondering if it's really the starter. One thing I noticed, and is my question finally, is the bendix spins but doesn't retract/snap forward at all - it seems forward all the time. Other more modern starters I have bench tested do this. I don't know much about these old ones - should the bendix drive fore/back when bench testing it?