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Sharps40 last won the day on November 17 2017

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About Sharps40

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  1. Sharps40

    1939 Plymouth

    Yep. Can happen with under floor master too. OP. Good job bleeding it. Always best to do so when the system is opened. Helps keep ya from failures later. Glad it worked out.
  2. Sharps40

    1939 Plymouth

    Bleed it is always the best option when the break system is opened.
  3. Sharps40

    1939 Plymouth

    Tie the pedal in the up position and change out the switch. Bleed the brakes post switch replacement just to be sure.
  4. Sharps40

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Back to basics on this one.....assuming you have a solid carb, dashpot as needed and no binding in the FD/trans/drive line, etc.... I would look for a vacuum leak, possibly including throttle shaft, manifold, valve guides, vacuum wiper port, vacuum canister, vacuum advance diaphragm leaking, etc.....get out the vacuum gauge and see if you have at least 16" steady at warm idle and see what it does reving and also while under load driving (longer hose needed) and squirt every joint and hose with carb cleaner and note changes in idle speed, normal checks.... Or you have an ignition issue, like too much or too little timing, slipped balancer, stuck mechanical advance, vacuum advance not working/perforated, points too wide/narrow, wires, plugs, coil, condenser......... One step at a time, get ignition and vacuum vetted first since it at least runs, then work your way through fuel to FD, other possible causes. Luck.
  5. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Lets see.....64 years after he buys the car, he gets it on the salt.The car would be 83 years old.Dad would be getting his first license at 81 year old.Perfect.Lets not tell the insurance company just yet.
  6. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    It's looking like we have some initial plans for Old Bessy. If she's ready in time 2019 we'll ride to Devils Tower. Last we had her there was about 1969. Then if we can in 2020 off to Utah and try to run it in the annual trials on the Salt Flats. We'd be wanting to get Dad his 100+ MPH license.
  7. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Dad is trying to make more weekly trips down to see his car. Good progress this week. Motor and trans mounts being fabbed. The v8 really fills up the very narrow engine bay of an early mopar. Here, motor mounts being fabbed and located. Floor board mods to accommodate the 4 speed auto are started, and its beginning to look like the x member is not really in the way.....I hope to keep it in place. Dropping the nose roughly into place to start getting an idea of forward clearance and room for radiator and condensers. And all the other bits of the front waiting their turn in the process....
  8. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    No call from Dad yet but I got a suprize....setting the motor and trans today......modern motivation for the old gal.....love it.....Ol Bessy our Family Girl is getting new guts! Once the weight is on we can finish the suspension set up..... Its close around the 4L60E,,,,,might need some floor work.
  9. So, did this on a GMC Jimmy recently to save the purchase of an entire new exhaust manifold and the attendant days of work removing and replacing it.....something similar should work for about any exhaust manifold where the manifold studs are broken off in the flange..... 1987 GMC Jimmy 350 Sierra Classic The problem was a 30 year old exhaust flange doughnut on the passenger side.....puff, puff, puff, and stink in the cab with the windows down. Before replacing the entire manifold, (yep, studs rusted to the point I knew they'd break off in the flange), try this. Go ahead and break off the three studs close to the flange and take out the doughnut. Salvage and reuse the three hole flange connector. I have 2.25" OD pipes, duals with no cats. There are two sizes of exhaust doughnuts, so bought both at $4 each.....after removing my old leaking doughnut, I noted I needed the smaller of the two.......old and small new one on the right. Ill take the big one, on the left, back. For $5 each, I bought two of the 2.5" opening hand cuff clamps. (Called split flanges and they come in scads of sizes and shapes and two hole and three hole, etc.....) Knowing the bolts would not be long enough I fished around in the parts bins at home and came up with two longer bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, etc. I selected the 2.5" opening size as its just barely big enough to go around the throat of the exhaust flange and still take a 3/8" bolt, coulda used a smaller id clamp on the down pipe, but at 2.5" opening it slides up and down freely, smashing the doughnut real good for a fine seal. One new bolt goes through the handcuff clamp, down through one hole of the original three bolt flange and through the hole of the lower handcuff clamp. Slide in another bolt on the other side of the two hole handcuff clamp and squeeze the doughnut but good by tightening the nuts. You could also use all thread and eliminate spacers as you won't run out of thread if like me, you had short threaded bolts. Test ride......no fumes in the cab, finally, I can put the windows down, just in time for spring.....and, no embarrassing noises, just the ever irritating rumble and drone of two magnaflow mufflers behind that good running 350......well, the mufflers may be too noisy for an old man but at least it no longer smells so bad my eyes sting nor sounds like a cockerspanial being squashed every time I get on the gas pedal.
  10. Sharps40

    Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    Very cool!
  11. Sharps40

    Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    It'll be fine. A two into one will likely not realize the full potential of the carb but adapters have been used successfully in the past. Again, proper signal and if the $88 carb is a good one, its mostly a matter of basic adjustment and jetting. Have at it, I think you'll find the fuel delivery crisp, responsive and reliable when completed. Of note, if you find the main jets becoming uncovered during heavy acceleration or traveling up steep grades, consider reversing your carb 180 degrees and placing it bowl forward. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
  12. Sharps40

    Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    Well, at the rate you're going you'll have an overhead valve engine under those modern systems in no time flat! Sounds like you are well on your way to making the car a reliable 21st Century classic. Kudos for doing the right stuff for safety, pleasure and reliability!
  13. Sharps40

    Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    It'll likely run decent jetted as is. Considering all the jets in these if you have a good vacuum signal you'll find them super tuneable and very responsive. Mileage might not be as good as a 2 bbl progressive but in a weekend or two of jet/drive (especially with an O2 gauge monitoring for stoich at idle and about 12.5/1ish at WOT) you'll have it licked for reliable cruising for more miles than you can count. That style carb with the ignition and steady power mods already performed will be a pleasant surprise. Next you'll be wanting a 5 speed overdrive.
  14. Sharps40

    Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    Its basically like a weber 38/38. Tune it like one for lean best idle... (link)....different than what you are used to with the old carters/stroms. See link. Leave the emulsion tubes and their jets alone. you don't need to mess with them unless you always at 6000+ rpm on the drag strip. Work hard to get idle and idle jetting right. DO NOT OPEN THE LOWER THROTTLE PLATES TOO FAR. your carb gets emulisified gas from the emulsion tubes through the external idle jets as such, the idle plates should never be opened more than about 1 turn of the screw from full closed..(i.e. proper setting for the lower butterflies is durn near completely almost slammed shut at idle - since it needs no air to idle, the air is in the gasoline already coming from emulsion tubes to the idle jets) 80% of your satisfaction will come from getting the idle and idle jetting right...... The older balls and stroms got raw gas from the idle port and need the air flow to run, hence their lower butterflys are a bit more open........ After which you can use an o2 sensor in the exhaust to mess with the main jets in the bowls from cruise to WOT. Get the idle right. Get the idle right. That will get the off idle right. Then work the main jets. You should be able to tune this to run on a small 4 to a very large 6 if its a good carb......at $88 who knows. before you start, check, check, check and recheck the linkage....nearly all failures are because the linkage is not positive and consistant from closed to fully open. Finally, fuel pressure 3 to 4 psi. No more. May have to go electric since even a mechanical pump that runs at that pressure may be too uneven to properly feed the carb. Fuel flow and pressure must be right and steady and most mechanical pumps are anything but steady. Use a big fuel filter, between pump and carb, the glass and plastic ones are crap. Many jets in these carbs and tight tolerances and the fuel must be clean. The adapter will be fine. Check everything for vacuum leaks......weber and weber style carbs run so well and are so adjustable that you can tune them to hide a pretty significant leak. Get it right and with a good carb and a good engine making the right vacuum signal, it'll run like fuel injection. Convert to 12v negative, add a 10SI or 12SI and an HEI Dizzy for instant start and total set it and forget it reliability. setting up a weber http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm setting up a ford 2100 http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf between the two, should get you running
  15. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Finally! Progress on Ol Bessy.... Not the best video but Dad did good with his cell phone. Now.....Dad doesn't know what the spark block or the fuel injection box is.....neither do I.....suppose I'll call the shop and find out what the jist of his conversation really was. In the meantime we confirmed LS3 is in the house (if Dad got the numbers right, I don't think he did cause that's too big.) along with the 4l60E. Also confirmed the use of FatMan 2" raised spindles for a ride height very close to original 1937 Dodge specs.....it'll allow for the use of 600x16 Wide Whites on Chrome Steelies with Baby Moons per my and Dads theme for the car.......a look commensurate with what an 18 year old on a tight budget might do in 1957......wheels, paint and motor.....i.e. it won't look like a hot rod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUZU...ature=youtu.be

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