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Sharps40 last won the day on November 17 2017

Sharps40 had the most liked content!


About Sharps40

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  1. So, did this on a GMC Jimmy recently to save the purchase of an entire new exhaust manifold and the attendant days of work removing and replacing it.....something similar should work for about any exhaust manifold where the manifold studs are broken off in the flange..... 1987 GMC Jimmy 350 Sierra Classic The problem was a 30 year old exhaust flange doughnut on the passenger side.....puff, puff, puff, and stink in the cab with the windows down. Before replacing the entire manifold, (yep, studs rusted to the point I knew they'd break off in the flange), try this. Go ahead and break off the three studs close to the flange and take out the doughnut. Salvage and reuse the three hole flange connector. I have 2.25" OD pipes, duals with no cats. There are two sizes of exhaust doughnuts, so bought both at $4 each.....after removing my old leaking doughnut, I noted I needed the smaller of the two.......old and small new one on the right. Ill take the big one, on the left, back. For $5 each, I bought two of the 2.5" opening hand cuff clamps. (Called split flanges and they come in scads of sizes and shapes and two hole and three hole, etc.....) Knowing the bolts would not be long enough I fished around in the parts bins at home and came up with two longer bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, etc. I selected the 2.5" opening size as its just barely big enough to go around the throat of the exhaust flange and still take a 3/8" bolt, coulda used a smaller id clamp on the down pipe, but at 2.5" opening it slides up and down freely, smashing the doughnut real good for a fine seal. One new bolt goes through the handcuff clamp, down through one hole of the original three bolt flange and through the hole of the lower handcuff clamp. Slide in another bolt on the other side of the two hole handcuff clamp and squeeze the doughnut but good by tightening the nuts. You could also use all thread and eliminate spacers as you won't run out of thread if like me, you had short threaded bolts. Test ride......no fumes in the cab, finally, I can put the windows down, just in time for spring.....and, no embarrassing noises, just the ever irritating rumble and drone of two magnaflow mufflers behind that good running 350......well, the mufflers may be too noisy for an old man but at least it no longer smells so bad my eyes sting nor sounds like a cockerspanial being squashed every time I get on the gas pedal.
  2. Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    Very cool!
  3. Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    It'll be fine. A two into one will likely not realize the full potential of the carb but adapters have been used successfully in the past. Again, proper signal and if the $88 carb is a good one, its mostly a matter of basic adjustment and jetting. Have at it, I think you'll find the fuel delivery crisp, responsive and reliable when completed. Of note, if you find the main jets becoming uncovered during heavy acceleration or traveling up steep grades, consider reversing your carb 180 degrees and placing it bowl forward. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
  4. Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    Well, at the rate you're going you'll have an overhead valve engine under those modern systems in no time flat! Sounds like you are well on your way to making the car a reliable 21st Century classic. Kudos for doing the right stuff for safety, pleasure and reliability!
  5. Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    It'll likely run decent jetted as is. Considering all the jets in these if you have a good vacuum signal you'll find them super tuneable and very responsive. Mileage might not be as good as a 2 bbl progressive but in a weekend or two of jet/drive (especially with an O2 gauge monitoring for stoich at idle and about 12.5/1ish at WOT) you'll have it licked for reliable cruising for more miles than you can count. That style carb with the ignition and steady power mods already performed will be a pleasant surprise. Next you'll be wanting a 5 speed overdrive.
  6. Carb upgrade, fingers crossed

    Its basically like a weber 38/38. Tune it like one for lean best idle... (link)....different than what you are used to with the old carters/stroms. See link. Leave the emulsion tubes and their jets alone. you don't need to mess with them unless you always at 6000+ rpm on the drag strip. Work hard to get idle and idle jetting right. DO NOT OPEN THE LOWER THROTTLE PLATES TOO FAR. your carb gets emulisified gas from the emulsion tubes through the external idle jets as such, the idle plates should never be opened more than about 1 turn of the screw from full closed..(i.e. proper setting for the lower butterflies is durn near completely almost slammed shut at idle - since it needs no air to idle, the air is in the gasoline already coming from emulsion tubes to the idle jets) 80% of your satisfaction will come from getting the idle and idle jetting right...... The older balls and stroms got raw gas from the idle port and need the air flow to run, hence their lower butterflys are a bit more open........ After which you can use an o2 sensor in the exhaust to mess with the main jets in the bowls from cruise to WOT. Get the idle right. Get the idle right. That will get the off idle right. Then work the main jets. You should be able to tune this to run on a small 4 to a very large 6 if its a good carb......at $88 who knows. before you start, check, check, check and recheck the linkage....nearly all failures are because the linkage is not positive and consistant from closed to fully open. Finally, fuel pressure 3 to 4 psi. No more. May have to go electric since even a mechanical pump that runs at that pressure may be too uneven to properly feed the carb. Fuel flow and pressure must be right and steady and most mechanical pumps are anything but steady. Use a big fuel filter, between pump and carb, the glass and plastic ones are crap. Many jets in these carbs and tight tolerances and the fuel must be clean. The adapter will be fine. Check everything for vacuum leaks......weber and weber style carbs run so well and are so adjustable that you can tune them to hide a pretty significant leak. Get it right and with a good carb and a good engine making the right vacuum signal, it'll run like fuel injection. Convert to 12v negative, add a 10SI or 12SI and an HEI Dizzy for instant start and total set it and forget it reliability. setting up a weber http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm setting up a ford 2100 http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf between the two, should get you running
  7. 1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Finally! Progress on Ol Bessy.... Not the best video but Dad did good with his cell phone. Now.....Dad doesn't know what the spark block or the fuel injection box is.....neither do I.....suppose I'll call the shop and find out what the jist of his conversation really was. In the meantime we confirmed LS3 is in the house (if Dad got the numbers right, I don't think he did cause that's too big.) along with the 4l60E. Also confirmed the use of FatMan 2" raised spindles for a ride height very close to original 1937 Dodge specs.....it'll allow for the use of 600x16 Wide Whites on Chrome Steelies with Baby Moons per my and Dads theme for the car.......a look commensurate with what an 18 year old on a tight budget might do in 1957......wheels, paint and motor.....i.e. it won't look like a hot rod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUZU...ature=youtu.be
  8. What is this growing on my engine?

    So, you have crud around the freeze plug. That indicates its leaking and its likely to let go soon. Before messing around with tanks and caps, it'd be Best to pull all the frost plugs, clean up and bang in new replacements. I believe there is one on the back too....might also be a rear cam plug back there so check your manual before pulling plugs out back.
  9. Dim headlights

    That's because power to the dimmer is not part of the modification. It remains from the headlight switch. This is too easy to do unless folks overthink it. Ignore the dash, dash wiring, light switch and just work from battery and dimmer to lights. Basically,,,,,Don't show what ya aint working with, to do so constitutes noise and confusion. I'll stand down now....I don't want to type so much that it get noisy and confusing. 2 hour job, $100 bucks or less for real quality components. Easy Peasy.
  10. Dim headlights

    This is essentially your schematic, two or four bulbs, doesn't matter, wiring is the same. Wire gauge as you see fit, heavy is good. 5 wire relay or 4 wire relay, doesn't matter, wiring is the same. Too simple? (And now you can do this and ignore any post that says "go buy a repair manual"! )
  11. Dim headlights

    With all the power looping thru the headlight switch and the high/low switch, I only receive 10.8 volts of power at the headlights with the engine off. Rather than fiddle with fuzes, I installed a 30 amp self resetting breaker to protect the circuit. Mounted to the radiator shroud and ready to wire up. A single 12g wire (top of breaker) taps power directly from the bulkhead connection which is connected directly to the + terminal of the battery. A pair of 12g wires (bottom of the breaker) out will send power to the High and Low beam relays. Now all the high amp load on the switches, dash harness, etc, (factory set up) is transferred direct from battery to relay. (Safer safer safer and more efficient as all the Connections/joints robbing power from the headlamps are now out of the feed stream to the bulbs) The switches are now operating at a single amp or so, just enough to trigger the relays and there is no LAMP Load on the switches, dash harness, etc.). Trigger wires come from the foot switch to the Low beam relay or the high beam relay as appropriate.. Use three wire headlamp sockets and ground both bulbs to frame. Ground both relays to frame as well.....ground, ground, ground....its old, everything is dirty brittle and corroded....ground it all or rip it all out and replace it. After double checking all the connections and tracing the wires one last time, I apply power. Zowie, 12.5 volts at the light sockets with the engine off.. Almost 2 volts gained at the lights where needed. And with the engine running, voltage at the headlight sockets is a full 14.5V. Should be blinding for deer this fall! Grounds grounds and then more grounds. Old cars need the benefit of lots of grounds. New cars can get by with just one but unless you are cleaning up the entire vehicle and replacing everything, add GROUNDS.
  12. Dim headlights

    Use a 30 amp self resetting breaker and take power directly from battery for max volts at bulbs. Otherwise you still have all the power going through dash and switch first and high losses. Google it. Plenty of schematics out there. Simple to do. By going from the battery the only power on your switches and dash harness is the fraction of an amps to trip the relay And yes. Gen alt will sense the load and compensate/charge as normal.
  13. Dim headlights

    Here is the drill....regardless of whether you run 6v or 12v or incandescent, halogen or led....the single most important things you can do is get max battery voltage to the lights. To wit. Good wiring, and clean tight connections + Grounds are mandatory. That will get you 4.5 to 5.5 volts at your bulbs, 10.0 to 11 on a 12v system....go ahead, measure it at the light to prove it to your self. To get maximum battery voltage, which is often higher than battery rating due to gen/alt in the system, you MUST use relays. Take all the amps (and thus resistance/losses) off the switches and run the lights directly from the battery to the lights through relays. Now the switch only uses a fraction of an amp to operate relays (one for low, one for hi) and you get 6-8v at the bulb or 12-14.5v on a modern system. Regardless of the lamp type, full voltage at the lamp is QUITE noticeable!
  14. Driveshaft update

    I used these fellas for my 65 Chevy truck when we put in the Astro T5. Perfect drive shaft, no issues, fast and fair pricing. Will use them again for the 37 Dodge. Beats the heck out of the old dodge ball and cup joints. No maintenance, no leather, no vibration and no failures.
  15. Shorten Driveshaft

    Order the new driveshaft with slip yoke and spicers. The ball and trunions will give you problems later. (out of balance, broken boots, etc.) and you'll just be up against dual expenses. Google driveshaft specialists out of texas. Fill out the easy to follow form and less than a week later your new driveshaft arrives at your door ready to bolt in. link. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/