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Sharps40 last won the day on November 17 2017

Sharps40 had the most liked content!


About Sharps40

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  1. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    I see. Not on the control arm but gusseting the tube it rides inside. Will check next trip up. They may not be done with the front end. Still notching for pan, exhaust, etc.
  2. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    None of the fat man tubular have gussets there at least I've never seen one on a car that was gusseted. We used same on dad's 47 chev truck and 20+ years later it's still good. I trust it. Fat man has a good rep in the industry.
  3. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Early frames are a bit narrow. Some clearancing is needed for a 5.3l
  4. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Just talked with Dad. Evidently the fit is very tight. As such, clearance was required both of the firewall, frame and the Fat Man Crossmember. Dad advises that the motor mounts are frenched into the frame rails. (This is because Ma MOPARs factory frame is boxed by extensions of the X Member/drive shaft loop. Much stronger and stiffer than the factory GM/Chevy/Ford frames of the time.) Additionally, the FAT MAN suspension crossmember had to be cut and reboxed to make room for the 5.3L V8 at the passenger side as well as a dimple in the frame for similar reasons. Engine/Trans has been in and out of the car several times now and the next step is first paint. In the next week or so, Bessy go's into the booth to have the frame and firewall sprayed and the first coat of 2015 HellCat B5 Pearl Blue shot onto the firewall area. From there back to the maintenance bay for final driveline install and staring on the wiring/cooling/etc to get it all running before assembly and final paint. Good Progress.
  5. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    From the shop, Ol Bessy shows progress. Firewall is reinstalled and completly updated to fit the new V8 engine. Motor mounts are completed and the new floor is almost done.
  6. Sharps40

    Engine stalls and misfires

    Probably running with the fuel bowl over full.....trash in the needle blocking it open. Start it, rev it and give the joint where the fuel line enters the fuel bowl of the carb a few healthy wacks with a screwdriver handle. If its trash, you'll knock it loose, the needle will open and close properly and you can then clean out the tank, lines and change the fuel filter.
  7. Sharps40

    1939 Plymouth

    Yep. Can happen with under floor master too. OP. Good job bleeding it. Always best to do so when the system is opened. Helps keep ya from failures later. Glad it worked out.
  8. Sharps40

    1939 Plymouth

    Bleed it is always the best option when the break system is opened.
  9. Sharps40

    1939 Plymouth

    Tie the pedal in the up position and change out the switch. Bleed the brakes post switch replacement just to be sure.
  10. Sharps40

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Back to basics on this one.....assuming you have a solid carb, dashpot as needed and no binding in the FD/trans/drive line, etc.... I would look for a vacuum leak, possibly including throttle shaft, manifold, valve guides, vacuum wiper port, vacuum canister, vacuum advance diaphragm leaking, etc.....get out the vacuum gauge and see if you have at least 16" steady at warm idle and see what it does reving and also while under load driving (longer hose needed) and squirt every joint and hose with carb cleaner and note changes in idle speed, normal checks.... Or you have an ignition issue, like too much or too little timing, slipped balancer, stuck mechanical advance, vacuum advance not working/perforated, points too wide/narrow, wires, plugs, coil, condenser......... One step at a time, get ignition and vacuum vetted first since it at least runs, then work your way through fuel to FD, other possible causes. Luck.
  11. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Lets see.....64 years after he buys the car, he gets it on the salt.The car would be 83 years old.Dad would be getting his first license at 81 year old.Perfect.Lets not tell the insurance company just yet.
  12. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    It's looking like we have some initial plans for Old Bessy. If she's ready in time 2019 we'll ride to Devils Tower. Last we had her there was about 1969. Then if we can in 2020 off to Utah and try to run it in the annual trials on the Salt Flats. We'd be wanting to get Dad his 100+ MPH license.
  13. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    Dad is trying to make more weekly trips down to see his car. Good progress this week. Motor and trans mounts being fabbed. The v8 really fills up the very narrow engine bay of an early mopar. Here, motor mounts being fabbed and located. Floor board mods to accommodate the 4 speed auto are started, and its beginning to look like the x member is not really in the way.....I hope to keep it in place. Dropping the nose roughly into place to start getting an idea of forward clearance and room for radiator and condensers. And all the other bits of the front waiting their turn in the process....
  14. Sharps40

    1937 Dodge, Ol Bessy Is Coming Home!

    No call from Dad yet but I got a suprize....setting the motor and trans today......modern motivation for the old gal.....love it.....Ol Bessy our Family Girl is getting new guts! Once the weight is on we can finish the suspension set up..... Its close around the 4L60E,,,,,might need some floor work.
  15. So, did this on a GMC Jimmy recently to save the purchase of an entire new exhaust manifold and the attendant days of work removing and replacing it.....something similar should work for about any exhaust manifold where the manifold studs are broken off in the flange..... 1987 GMC Jimmy 350 Sierra Classic The problem was a 30 year old exhaust flange doughnut on the passenger side.....puff, puff, puff, and stink in the cab with the windows down. Before replacing the entire manifold, (yep, studs rusted to the point I knew they'd break off in the flange), try this. Go ahead and break off the three studs close to the flange and take out the doughnut. Salvage and reuse the three hole flange connector. I have 2.25" OD pipes, duals with no cats. There are two sizes of exhaust doughnuts, so bought both at $4 each.....after removing my old leaking doughnut, I noted I needed the smaller of the two.......old and small new one on the right. Ill take the big one, on the left, back. For $5 each, I bought two of the 2.5" opening hand cuff clamps. (Called split flanges and they come in scads of sizes and shapes and two hole and three hole, etc.....) Knowing the bolts would not be long enough I fished around in the parts bins at home and came up with two longer bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, etc. I selected the 2.5" opening size as its just barely big enough to go around the throat of the exhaust flange and still take a 3/8" bolt, coulda used a smaller id clamp on the down pipe, but at 2.5" opening it slides up and down freely, smashing the doughnut real good for a fine seal. One new bolt goes through the handcuff clamp, down through one hole of the original three bolt flange and through the hole of the lower handcuff clamp. Slide in another bolt on the other side of the two hole handcuff clamp and squeeze the doughnut but good by tightening the nuts. You could also use all thread and eliminate spacers as you won't run out of thread if like me, you had short threaded bolts. Test ride......no fumes in the cab, finally, I can put the windows down, just in time for spring.....and, no embarrassing noises, just the ever irritating rumble and drone of two magnaflow mufflers behind that good running 350......well, the mufflers may be too noisy for an old man but at least it no longer smells so bad my eyes sting nor sounds like a cockerspanial being squashed every time I get on the gas pedal.

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