Lowered cars and u joint boots.

[53dodgekustom]

My 53 Dodge is lowered using 3 in blocks in the rear and one coil cut in the front. I raised the very rear of the tunnel so the driveshaft won't rub and put airshocks on it so I can air it up when I put a bunch of people in it or take a long trip. Rides pretty good.

But my rubber boots that go around the u joints keep falling apart. Especially the front. The stock one flew apart along time a go. Kind of expected because the old hard rubber and what not. So, I put a new one on. I'm pretty sure that I had to take the u joint out cause the rubber wouldn't stretch over it. Anyone who has done this knows it's a pain, pressing the pin back in within .006 on the length of each side takes a lot of patience. Well I got a new one on there and now that one has also shredded apart. The stock rear one is starting to do it too.

Any subjections on how to get these things to hold together would be great.

My pinion angle really isn't extreme hardly at all. But I think the driveshaft is a little tighter fit than it would be with a stock hight.

Thanks

[50PlymouthSled]

Cut the coil and blocked the back huh? That's a good way to do it. My friend has a 54 Chevy that he did 4 inch blocks, lowered leafs, and pancaked them, so it's dropped nine. Best best is probably over leaf air bags. They give the car a dropped feel, and still give a nice ride, and allow for you to ride it at a stock height, and may cure your problem. I'm going to just notch (if need be) my rear frame, four link, and channel, so it lays out flat. Just some ideas for you.

Cheers.

[james curl]

I went to Hobby Lobby and got a sheet of tanned pig skin, made a paper pattern of the required cone. Laid the pattern on the pig skin and allowed half inch lap joint which I used contact glue on both ends of the leather. Used my 6" stainless steel rule under the joint so I could press the glue together. Remove scale and used cable lock ties to secure both ends. After the glue had cured I used a curved needle with the heavy black wax thread to stitch the joint tight. I have over 6000 miles on them and they are still tight.

[50PlymouthSled]

That's not a bad idea, I may have to keep that in mind for if I have any problems, Thanks, James.

[BloodyKnuckles]

I did a u-joint conversion on my '51. My driveshaft guy used what I believe to be a Ford Ranger driveshaft flange. One on each end of the shaft. It bolts to the stock flanges on the tranny and rearend. The new flanges accept regular u-joints, not the detroit joint. If you lose a joint on the road they are readily available at any auto parts store.

53dodgekustom, I did 2 wraps on my coils, relocated the front shocks, 3" blocks out back with 500lbs in the trunk and raised the tunnel. The only thing I need to do now is notch the frame.

Hope this helps.

BloodyKnuckles

[50PlymouthSled]

51 what? My 50 Plymouth has a huge step in the frame, I don't think I'm gonna need to notch it, though I will, as to help for the bridge for my tank and compressor.

[BloodyKnuckles]

51 what? My 50 Plymouth has a huge step in the frame, I don't think I'm gonna need to notch it, though I will, as to help for the bridge for my tank and compressor.

'51 Plymouth. Mine has a step in it too but it sits real low and it bangs continuously.

BloodyKnuckles

[53dodgekustom]

Hmmm... I think I will try wrapping something around them, packing it with grease first of coarse.

My cars pretty low. The third member his before the frame gets near the axle. These cars seem to have a lot more step than a Chevy does.

Probably just leave the 53 like this and bag and 4 link the 54 2 door I just got.

Thanks for the ideas.

[FMSPEED49]

You need to adjust your pinion angle to ofset the blocks, guessing about 2 or 3 degrees and get the drive line back in line.

[50PlymouthSled]

Nice nice, good to bag a 54. And hopefully you get that fixed, and does Knuckles? I'll keep that in my mind for mine. And that's a nice car, Norm, I like it. Looks good.