MBF Posted December 14, 2022 Report Posted December 14, 2022 (edited) I'll post some pics when I get them. I have the 251 engine out of my 49 B2JA. Crank broke at #6 rod journal. Pulled an engine out of a parts truck to salvage the crank. While I'm waiting for machine work I'm doing some of the stuff that wasn't done before like painting the firewall and inner fenders. On both engine pulls, I removed the nose assemblies, then pulled the engine with the bell housing still mounted to the engine. With the front inspection cover off of the bell, can I install the bell into the frame, and then when I get the engine back together install it into the mounted bell housing? I know the flywheel will need to be installed afterward as it'd be a tight fit trying to sneak it up between the front of the bell while hanging from an engine hoist. Anyone done it this way? Trying to use up some of the painted parts while waiting for the machine work to be done. Edited December 14, 2022 by MBF correct missing info Quote
wallytoo Posted December 14, 2022 Report Posted December 14, 2022 (edited) i didn't do it that way. as you know, there are many ways to make it work, though. fwiw, i pulled the transmission backward, but left it "strapped/suspened" in place. i then removed the flywheel, and could hoist the engine out. never touched the bellhousing, because i didn't want to deal with the pedals etc. having the transmission jack and engine hoist made reinstallation the easiest i've ever put an engine back into a vehicle. i did get lucky, but it was literally a line it up and give it a try - and it worked on the very first attempt. only pulled the hood assembly, radiator, and the nose cover, but not the grille or fenders. Edited December 14, 2022 by wallytoo Quote
MBF Posted December 14, 2022 Author Report Posted December 14, 2022 Thanks for the response. I did pull the trans w a trans jack (did it 2 yrs ago too when I did the clutch. I did pull the floors and pedals. Mine was a former firetruck and all of the original fasteners came apart easily. I think I'm going to mount the bell in the chassis and start buttoning up the pedals/floor. This was the longest engine pull I've done-did a Chevy 235 in less than an hour, and my slant 6 in less than two. Really appreciate the info and pics. Thanks again! Mike Quote
wallytoo Posted December 14, 2022 Report Posted December 14, 2022 i did the floor last, becasue i find it easier to install the starter and a few other things while the toe-boards are still not installed. Quote
MBF Posted December 14, 2022 Author Report Posted December 14, 2022 Yup, but I've got the entire nose off the truck and the trans sitting on a jack. It isn't bad working over the fenders of my 49 1 ton, but this 2.5 ton is a bear, and it came off pretty easily. While I have the nose off I'm replacing the fender fillers and doing some cosmetic work in the engine bay. I'm going to put the bell housing and pedals in and leave the floor out so that when I install the engine I can easily get to those top two bolts that the accelerator linkage mounts to. I think the most aggravating part of this job was the pedal return spring and pedal removal. I can't imagine doing this job on a PH COE! Quote
Dodgeboy49 Posted December 24, 2022 Report Posted December 24, 2022 COE's are a mixed bag to work on; with the front wheels and inner fenders removed, there are hardly any bolts or fasteners that are difficult to reach. The tranny and clutch are really easy to work on since you can just about sit upright under the high cab. On the other hand, there isn't much you can do WITHOUT removing the front wheels. Even cleaning the points has do be done through the fender. I dread the day the engine has to come out- wouldn't be too bad if a person had a little forklift, but doing it with an engine hoist will be a nightmare. Quote
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