splat1955 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Okay guys, Rather than continue and older post I had started about what holds the door cylinder in place, yada yada, I've pulled the door panel from my drivers side door cause I knew what ever held it in place was laying in the bottom of the door. So, I pulled it out, and I guess because no one else has actually seen one I'd post a pic. I'm sure some of you have seen them using a flashlight and looking up inside the door...which is the only way you should be able to see the part...cause it's part of the door. It's got little flanges and it looks as though it was spot welded or tack welded to the door up where the cylinder goes. Anyway, obviously mines not and that sucks. So, here's my question. Since we have been talking about JB Weld recently, I'm wondering what the opinions are of trying that to hold this device in. If I put my cylinder through the door, then slide this over the shaft and cylinder then with a little more dexterity, I can pretty much hold this thing up where it is supposed to be and with the lock screw pointing to the hole in the door jamb where it is supposed to be. I can even lock the screw, but then the whole unit is loose but stays put, as it was when I got the car. I really don't know much about welding, but do know a guy with a tig or a mig welder that has done some work for me in the past, but the paints decent on my car and I don't want to screw it up too badly. So, I was thinking about JB Weld...but let's here what you guys think I should do. I'm up for suggestions! Sorry about the crappy pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.P_46 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Hi splatt, To weld it back in you would need to plug weld it (thru ~3/16" holes) from the front side of the door. Worse case with JB weld will be that it fall back off. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Thanks Jeff.....but why couldn't it be tacked from the inside of the door? If all else fails, I may have to JB Weld it. Any other imput guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lazarus Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Splatt I had the very similar problem with my '38. Worse still I had painted the outside so could not tack weld without screwing my paint. I used my trusty tube of automotive body seam-sealer/adhesive. This stuff sticks like $#&* to a blanket, and once cured will hold tight. I used masking tape on the outside to hold the lock in position and 48 hours later all go. If i ever need to remove the lock I will cut this rubbery compound away. Warning though....careful not to contaminate the rear of the lock with this stuff as it will gum the workings pretty well. It may not be an authentic fix but I am realy into using modern stuff to make life easy. Hope this helps Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
claybill Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 jb is easy fast and 90 sure to cure yor ills! do it.. bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250440ND Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Today's cars have panels that aren't welded on they are glued, The roof on a new Cadillac is glued on. I own a bodyshop and we use panel bonding glue all the time for Qtr Panels, boxsides, cabcorners, roof panels. You can get it at any autobody supply stores. 3M makes it and so do Duramix. It's good stuff and I would use that before JB Weld. My opinion. So you caddy guys don't get mad at me the front and rear of the roof panel is welded on. You can get the stuff to dry in 3minutes if that isn't fast enough put some heat on it w/heat gun and it will dry really fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Hey Guys, thanks for all the ideas....yeah, my paint is good so I don't really want to mess it up with heat from a weld. Hey 250440ND, This Panel Bonding Glue by 3M and Duramix....can it be had pretty much anywhere? I'm sure in a body shop you guys get it by the ton...but is it available in small quanitities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.P_46 Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 it would be hard to tack it from the inside, not much room to get a TIG torch or MIG head in that space. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspeed Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 I'd try the adhesives or JB if it can be done without getting it into the works. But you'll want to clean both bonding surfaces, rough them up, and clean again with something like acetone or lacquer thinner, but don't let it sneak outside onto your exterior paint. JB will want to run a bit until it starts to cure. Also figure a way to hold everything in place, JB takes quite a while to firm up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted September 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Thanks again guys, yeah, I guess it would be hard to get a tig or mig head in that space. So, it looks like I will be trying a compound to get it back in it's place. I've got some JB Weld " Qwik " has anyone tried this? I must have used it on something cause it's open, but I can't remember what....probably something on my old Jeepster. Norm, yeah, I will definitely clean both surfaces....then use Laquer Thinner around the inside of the hole and the back side of the mounting ring. Maybe even drill the little plug welds back out of the ring so the compound will be able ooze through the holes and possibly make it more secure. I've been trying to think of a way I can mount something from the outside, that will go through the lock hole and spread out....then be able to tighten it from the outside so it pulls against the inside of the door. Anybody got any ideas? I was thinking of a small flat peice of wood for the outside,,,then a bolt to go through the wood to the inside to a washer larger than the mounting ring and a nut on the bolt...that way, from the outside I could tighten the flat washer against the ring while the JB or whatever I use is setting up. The thing is, this JB Weld " Qwik " that I have says it will start setting up in 4 minutes, and it might take me nearly that long to get the bolt, nut, wood, washer, compong applied, ring in positition, etc. Any other ideas? Hey, what about one of those cheap anchors, the type that spring open once you put them through the ceiling or wall? Long enough screw on it and the screw through a thin piece of wood (to keep my paint from being scratched), then I'd be able to just push it through and tighten it up...might need a second set of hands, but I'm probably going to need those no matter which way I go. Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted September 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Well Guys, I got in the door with a wire brush on the dremel, then a small grinding stone to remove the little plug weld spots, then wiped with laquer thinner. That took care of the mounting surface. Did the same thing to the mounting ring also but drilled out the small plug welds so the compound could squeeze into those holes as well when pressure was put on. I mixed up some JB Weld " qwik...just a little at first to see how fast it set up. Just as the label said...starts in 4 minutes..maybe a little less. Then hunted for one of those anchors that pops open when pushed through a hole. Found one with a long screw in it. Then, I removed the screw in the mounting ring that holds the lock in place and replaced it with a screw that was about 4 inches long. That was, I could have that screw come through the hole in the door jamb and once I got the ring where I wanted it inside the door, I'd have something to hold onto and also move it around to adjust. Before using the JB...I tried a mock up fit and the screw in the anchor was long enough to hit the window track in the door, so all I had to do was tighten the screw until it hit the window track...didn't need anything to protect the paint on the outside of the door because nothing needed to touch it. Tore it apart, got the parts ready again, mixed up the JB and bingo, was able to get the ring where it needed to go, able to manipulate it with the long screw I had coming out through the door jamb, stuck the anchor through, tightened it just enough to make adjustments, then tightened it just a little more and walked away for a half an hour. Came back, unscrewed the anchor, unscrewed the long screw I had going to the ring through the jamb, slid the lock & shaft in to make sure all was good. Then, put the screw back in that holds the lock and tightened it just a little...waited another half an hour, tightened a little more. The lock seems to be tight in the door, straight and tried the key, all seems good. Hopefully this will last for years. Another small project completed. Of course, I have a new post about the door stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lazarus Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Well done Splatt, its sooo neat when it all works just like you planned!! Did mine 2 years ago and its just like new, although I amost never lock the car. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted September 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Hey, thanks Dave...Yeah, it is cool when something works out...and so far, things have been coming together on the Dodge. I think I've only had it about 2 months now but have taken care of a lot of little things..some big things as well. I was going to try your seam sealer stuff, but I had this JB Weld Qwik stuff and didn't want to make a trip to town this morning cause I had to go in later today. Figured I'd give it a shot and if everything fell back down into the door before I went to town, then I'd try something else. So alls good, just trying now to figure out what is supposed to be inside the door at the end of the door stop bar to keep the door from opening too far. Then I can button up that door. Thanks again. Brian Well done Splatt, its sooo neat when it all works just like you planned!!Did mine 2 years ago and its just like new, although I amost never lock the car. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterx Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 I bought some from these guys http://www.lordfulfillment.com/upload/SI3155.pdfit came in a two tube setup like epoxy about 10 inches long. They sell a gun that is specifically made for this arrangement. Tough stuff, once hard you can only air chisel apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Hey Chester...thanks for the link. Sounds like some good stuff. I may try this stuff on a couple of applications and if my JB doesn't hold up, I'll give this stuff a try next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterx Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 I have a new tube that I will never use, if you want it PM me your address and I'll send it to you with the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.