Hard starting-Distributor.

[Fernando Mendes]

Rotor end metal strip burning.........................................Clean

Spark plug wire terminals in distributor cap corroded.....Clean

[Fernando Mendes]

"Contact rotor is burning on top of the metal strip it indicates the rotor is too short and needs replacing."

"USUALLY WHEN THIS CONDITION IS FOUND,THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP INSERT WILL BE BURNED ON THE HORIZONTAL FACE AND THE CAP WILL ALSO NEED REPLACING"(WWII JEEP WILLYS 1942 MAINTENANCE MANUAL) 

[rferg]

What you're talking about is a major difference with transistorized ignition. Stock ignition makes a lot of amperage - which causes burnt electrodes and points - transistorized ignition makes higher voltage - lower amperage spark. And thus less wear.

        But the best part of trans/ignition is that it burns through carbon deposits and actually cleans them away. That's why trans systems start easier and are less prone to missing.

       I have an old heath kit ignition system. It has a switch to allow CDI or normal ignition. When I first turn it to CDI it misses a while until it cleans the plugs of carbon and then runs great.

       CDI and Transistor systems are not the same however. CDI is actually much too strong - it's high voltage and high amperage. It will burn wires out, cap and rotor electrodes, and increase plug gap quickley. I've experienced early CDI systems that wires only lasted 6 weeks on. 

       All modern ignition systems are transistor systems - they're pretty easy to build using a heat sink, large transistor, 1 diode, and a 40 ohm resistor. and the best part is you can use your existing points system - they'll never burn again with that 40 ohm resistor restricting current through them. But, as much as I like building these things - an 80's style ignition system is cheaper and can also be used with points.

[Fernando Mendes]

I discovered!!! It was bowl carburetor gasket.

[Fernando Mendes]

Check air cleaner restricted,carb bowl vent,throuttle plate total closed(spring action),........