Drawing Heat

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, been a busy spring so far, sold the 47(ouch still seems surreal), bought the 52 Chebby sedan, and ended up selling it last week, guess my heart and pocket book wasn't in it.

So back to the 55 Fargo, back drivin her a bit, and hope to do some work on her as the summer progresses. I do have the rear 56 fenders and running boards at work being welded up, and they should be finished soon.

Tonight I went for about a 15-20 mile drive, its not hot out, but warm and a bit muggy, drove mostly on the highway 55-60 mph. At 60 mph she is only spinning at 2500 rpm, which is nice, engine could handle much more, but the front end, and no weight on this short truck, make faster speeds right now a bit risky.

When I got back, shut truck off, then a few minutes later needed to move it, it started no problem being a 12 volt, but the carb needed to clear, I am geting fuel boilover/percolation, or something.

The heatriser unfortunately is stuck in the cold warm up position, so carb base is getting warm, infact carb was pretty hot to the touch.

I decided a few minutes later to take temperatures of various components, so here was the results;

 

-exhaust manifold 300f

-intake manifold 230

-carb base 210

-carb body 150

-fuel filter just before carb modern type disposable 120

-fuel pump, with heat shield, 95

-engine coolant 160-165

 

So is it any wonder the fuel system is getting super hot with this heat riser allowing hot gases to flow up into the intake.

I have a good spare intake/exhaust manifold with working heatriser, and I need to install ASAP, but I dread the job, because of the risk of breaking stud bolts etc, been there, done that.

Is this a risky venture driving this truck in warm weather with this situation, will I do damage to the exhaust valves or head?

This engine runs really well, does not smoke, has good compression, and has good warm oil pressure 40 idling, 50-55 psi driving at speed.

Anyway, hope everyone is doing well these days......Rockwood

[randroid]

Fred,

 

Darn good to hear from you, sir!  Been wondering what you've been up to.  Sounds as though things are going well up in your neck of the woods, and if you ever get pining for the "old short" I still have those pictures you sent for installing the spotlight.

 

The topic of breaking-loose rusty threads is still alive and well and undoubtedly you're aware of the 50/50 acetone/ATF mixture.  It works like a champ but there are a couple add-ons I'd like to suggest if you go that way:  Shake it every time you use it because it seperates very quickly, and put it in a metal container.  I put mine in a plastic spray bottle and it hasn't burst (yet) but it wobbles like a Weeble and I now keep the spray bottle in a metal can.

 

Your son still interested in getting his hands dirty and not getting yelled at for it?  Hope so.

 

-Randy

[55 Fargo]

Fred,

 

Darn good to hear from you, sir!  Been wondering what you've been up to.  Sounds as though things are going well up in your neck of the woods, and if you ever get pining for the "old short" I still have those pictures you sent for installing the spotlight.

 

The topic of breaking-loose rusty threads is still alive and well and undoubtedly you're aware of the 50/50 acetone/ATF mixture.  It works like a champ but there are a couple add-ons I'd like to suggest if you go that way:  Shake it every time you use it because it seperates very quickly, and put it in a metal container.  I put mine in a plastic spray bottle and it hasn't burst (yet) but it wobbles like a Weeble and I now keep the spray bottle in a metal can.

 

Your son still interested in getting his hands dirty and not getting yelled at for it?  Hope so.

 

-Randy

Hi Randy thanx for the reply, yes indeed My Boy likes to tinker and take things apart. I have him trained to cut grass with lawn tractor now, but with supervision of course.

I am aware and have used the ATF/Acetone concoction, I really do like using heat if I can, makes a huge difference on rusted seized metals.

Evidently my thread has not evoked my response, I figured there would be a lot of others who experience, or have experienced this problem, but maybe not. Hey you Guys don't you remember Me......LOL

Anyway, started to remove donor exhaust/intake manifolds today, all are out except 2, 1 intake stud nut, which I will try heat, and the nut was already worn down a bit and the other 1 long manifold bolt that goes through the middle, that bolt head is worn down too. The hidden nut number 13, came off with ease.

I plan to get this donor manifold off, clean check for warpage, paint and at some point when brave, will pull off the manifolds on my truck. I really dread this excercise, as I always break a stud or bolt, and then the real fun begins. If I had the money would hire some shop to do the job. BTW thanx Randy for remembering Me..........hehehhe

Edited June 15, 2013 by 55Fargo

[james curl]

If you have a good 18 volt drill with the impact feature you can start by trying to tighten the nut/bolt.  The vibration sometimes will loosen the hold the rust has on the nut/bolt.  If you use an impact gun to remove the bolt/nut start at the lowest setting and let it hammer a while to allow the bond to break and not the bolt/stud.  I have used this method to remove the exhaust manifold and to separate the intake from the exhaust and have never broken anything.  Hope you can find this information helps in your project.

[55 Fargo]

If you have a good 18 volt drill with the impact feature you can start by trying to tighten the nut/bolt.  The vibration sometimes will loosen the hold the rust has on the nut/bolt.  If you use an impact gun to remove the bolt/nut start at the lowest setting and let it hammer a while to allow the bond to break and not the bolt/stud.  I have used this method to remove the exhaust manifold and to separate the intake from the exhaust and have never broken anything.  Hope you can find this information helps in your project.

Hi James, thanx for the "tips". I do have impact guns, and a fairly torky cordless drill. I still need to get 2 stud nuts off the donor manifold, then will bite the bullet, and decide when to do the manifold pulling off my 55 Truck. 

Did you think those temps I posted seem high, I sure thought so, on a 90+ dgree day, that carb and intake would be boiling hot, and what about the valves, would get good and hot, with the exhaust being soemwhat diveretd and restricted witha heatriser flap in the wrong position..........thanx again

[55 Fargo]

UPDATE: go a chance to work on removing manifold from donor engine today. I had every stud nut and 1 long bolt off, was working on 2nd blot on the center part of exhaust manifold that joins the intake/exhaust. I tried everything, then drilled into bolt head, it was so hard mycobalt bit was hardly cutting in, I finally got most of it drilled off. The I was using a large cold chisel to clean up what was left, wehn the chisel slipped and I brke through the cast iron, instant ruined manifold. It is off the engine though.

I have a few choices, get another donor manifold, take my manifolds off truck, and make 1 good pair with the 2 seats, down time for truck though. Or buy headers, but then would need he dual exhaust.

I sure wish I could just move the heat riser flap forward on the truck engine, but there is not much of the flapper stud left and how am i going to run it.

I wounder if oxcetelen would heat it up enough to break free........