40plyrod Posted January 25, 2011 Report Posted January 25, 2011 Hey guys been continuing to patch rust on my 40 sedan and have worked my way to the doors. I started on the passenger door first and set up the hinges the best I could the drilled a 1/8th inch hole through the top and bottom hinges so I could duplicate the position quickly. The door seemed too big for the opening as it was jamming on the post so I made a verticle cut on the b pillar post on the inside and eased it back with a block of wood and a hammer. I then welded the post up. Next I worked on the door gaps and fixed them by grinding along the door edge and them welding it and then gringing it till I had a even gap all the way round. I also had to make a relief cut in the front edge of the door window opening to allow that part of the door to get closer to the body. Finally I made a replacement panel for the lower inside part of the door as well as a patch for the lower outside skin. Then I decided to move the outside door lock to the drivers side.This required removing the section of door around the lock as to get the lock cylinder holder. The lock cam mecanism in the passenger side latch had to moved to the drivers latch but the drivers latch has the capabilites for this, so it's just a matter of unbending a few tabs and swaping stuff over. After doing all this I have some questions. Do the 40 plymouths use a rubbed door seal, there doesn't look as though there is a lot of room for one? Was there ever an option for locks on both sides of the car? Also my 40 has a one piece side windows no vent windows and it looks factory to me, but I think most of the 40's I've seen here have vent windows is mine a low option sedan? Thanks Ed Quote
old stovebolt Posted January 25, 2011 Report Posted January 25, 2011 Lot of work you have done thus far. Looks good. When you said "The door seemed too big for the opening" did you measure the opening and compare it to the other side? I wonder if the problem is remnant damage to the door opening from a prior collision. Maybe the post needs to be moved around? I guess it is kinda late if the door has already been modified. If the post is off, other parts might be affected. Ever check the frame to see if it is straight? ....... And, know, I do not know about the door rubber issue, sorry. Quote
thrashingcows Posted January 25, 2011 Report Posted January 25, 2011 Nice work so far!! Well done on the fab and welding!! But I'm glad my Desoto doesn't need much for metal work.....I'd have to go take a course on welding if it did. As is I can bumble my way through it. Quote
40plyrod Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Posted January 26, 2011 Lot of work you have done thus far. Looks good.When you said "The door seemed too big for the opening" did you measure the opening and compare it to the other side? I wonder if the problem is remnant damage to the door opening from a prior collision. Maybe the post needs to be moved around? I guess it is kinda late if the door has already been modified. If the post is off, other parts might be affected. Ever check the frame to see if it is straight? ....... And, know, I do not know about the door rubber issue, sorry. Thanks. Yes I measured both door openings and they're the same, the door on the drivers side fits really tight too. The frame is straight but the floor was really rotten and so were the rockers so I had to replace all that. I was quite careful to brace things and adjust things back to where they were supposed to be but I'm sure there was some room for error. The end result will be everything working fine it just may take a little longer to get there. Quote
old stovebolt Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 You are doing a nice job..... Quote
40plyrod Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Posted February 5, 2011 I finally found the missing finished door pictures and added them. Also still wondering what the door seals are like and where they fit on the '40 plymouths as well anybody got some info on the vent windows what cars had them? Thanks Ed Quote
1941Rick Posted February 6, 2011 Report Posted February 6, 2011 my 41 p12 does. when the big window is down and the vent open it is like a hardtop... Quote
B-Watson Posted February 6, 2011 Report Posted February 6, 2011 The Canadian-built 1940 Plymouth came in three series - P9 Roadking, P10 DeLuxe and P10S Custom. You can tell a Canadian model by the serial number (starts with 9) and the body tag on the firewall (Model No, Body No, Paint Code, Trim Code) The base Roadking came with one-piece glass in the front doors and no vent wings front and rear. It also had one windshield wiper, one sun visor (all on the driver`s side), one horn. and no arm rests on the front door. The DeLuxe added a second windshield wiper, front door vent wings, rear quarter ventilators, oil filter, and sway eliminator. The Custom added a second sun visor, a second horn, driver`s door arm rest, horn ring, ash receivers and a cigar lighter. The Canadian Dodge equivalents were D14 Kingsway, D15 DeLuxe and D15S DeLuxe Special. The line-up in 1941 was intially the same at the beginning of the model year, but mid-year a Roadking Special and Kingsway Special were added. Quote
40plyrod Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Posted February 6, 2011 Thanks Bill, That's exactly what I was looking for, my 40 sedan has roadking badging however it does have both wipers( electric too),two horns, as well as front arm rests, but I also wondered why most of the picture of front suspensions showed a sway bar but mine didn't now I know. Quote
B-Watson Posted February 9, 2011 Report Posted February 9, 2011 Thanks Bill, That's exactly what I was looking for, my 40 sedan has roadking badging however it does have both wipers( electric too),two horns, as well as front arm rests, but I also wondered why most of the picture of front suspensions showed a sway bar but mine didn't now I know. Vacuum wipers were standard on Canadian-built Plymouths, Dodges and DeSotos with electric wipers optional. Electric units were standard on Chrysler. The horns, arm rests, and sun visor were all optional, either from the factory or installed by the dealer. What is on your body tag? Quote
40plyrod Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Posted February 10, 2011 Looked this morning at my body tag and here's what I got; P9 2DR SED BODY #11 PAINT CODE 976 TRIM CODE AKF If you can uncode that for me it would be great. thanks Ed Quote
B-Watson Posted February 10, 2011 Report Posted February 10, 2011 Looked this morning at my body tag and here's what I got;P9 2DR SED BODY #11 PAINT CODE 976 TRIM CODE AKF If you can uncode that for me it would be great. thanks Ed P9 2DR SED : 1940 Plymouth Roadking 2-door sedan BODY #11 : 11th P9 2DR SED built (1,895 in total built at Windsor) PAINT CODE 976 : Gunmetal Metallic (dark grey) TRIM CODE AKF : Unfortunately I do not have info on Canadian trim codes before 1949. Canadian codes were letters while U.S. were numbers. In 1940 Canadian Plymouths were done in broadcloth or mohair. Quote
40plyrod Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Thanks Bill. My plymouth was in so many different colors of primer and paint that I wasn't sure what color to call it when we registered it. Edited February 10, 2011 by 40plyrod Quote
MarkAubuchon Posted February 11, 2011 Report Posted February 11, 2011 My two cents. But if the floors and rockers where bad, the body can in fact twist and sag. How are the body mounts. What we did once when faced with this same situation, prior to welding everything back in place was align the doors to the body and then tack in the floors, a pillar, rockers and in the cas the sill plate. (truck) Quote
40plyrod Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Posted February 12, 2011 I was careful to measure everything and brace it before welding anything, but there probably was room for error. I never thought to fit the doors first, (probably a good idea) but I'm not too worried the passenger door fits better now than it did from the factory with very even door gaps and the drivers door is well on it's way. Quote
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