fuel sending unit 12 volt

[razerface]

I give! I give!

I looked for HOURS for part # for fuel sending units. I see everyone says where to get them,,but no good part#.

I found these in threads, jc whitney 199437 09-52 <--- no good,, searching jc whitney brought me this----> 15714G which is $38 plus shipping.

autolite# 11452A which also is no good yet

anybody know this phantom $20 sending unit spoken about in these threads with a part#? Does 12 volt make a difference? thanks jon

Edited September 8, 2010 by razerface

[MMcKinney]

I just did a quick search and could not find it under the numbers I posted on January 2010, but I just did another and found some options. The price is not the cheap $28 I paid but its better than nothing. Try "1ja128525" in the JC Whitney search engine. Then go to "item details" and you should see 3 -4 other listings. I believe the one you need (if using a factory orginal gas gauge) is the 10 to 78 ohms 1ja128252 unit. I see other units with 33 - 240 ohms and 0-90 ohms as well. Depends on the gas gauge you are going to use.

I see on Summit racing that auto meter has a 33-240 ohms unit (universal fit & cheeper) that I may have to switch to because I may go to newer type guages that "look orginal" & fit the orginal mounting on the truck. I am still working on that though and have not figured that out as of yet.

MMcKinney

[Herr Otto]

Razerface, I just purchased one from J.C. Whitney last week and paid $22.99 plus tax which totaled $24.60. I am at work right now so I do not have the exact part # with me. They have the same part listed many ways with many different prices, but I found it listed in one of their catalogs for $22.99 and when I called in the order the lady told me it was $59.99. We had a discussion about this and she finally gave in and gave me a $37.00 discount and it is the correct part. When I get home on Sunday I will look up the part number in their catalog.

Herr Otto

[razerface]

Herr Otto, thanks, but it's too late! I ordered the expensive one from roberts. I figured since I could not find a cheaper one,,the price was too close to do all that work, so I bought a "drop in"

I have noticed the price difference between catalogs too,,,thanks for trying to help!

[razerface]

well,, there are more problems then I thought. I bought the 1 wire unit from Roberts so I did not have to do anything but install it,,but it did not work out that way.

I installed the sending unit after adding a ground wire to it like I saw Merle do in another thread.

It reads 1/4 tank when empty. It also jumps to E while driving and then goes back to the reading about every 30 seconds or so. For a while it seemed like it does it when I accelerate or let off the gas. It does this whether the ground wire is hooked up or unhooked. Ground wire goes from sending unit to the frame.Any ideas?

I have to bend the float to correct the reading? I thought is should be good out of the box. P/N T364 from Roberts.

As a side note, my hole in the floor lines up perfectly with the sending unit! I am making a socket tool to loosen and tighten the collar. I made a flat wrench for when I had the tank out, but it won't work with tank installed.

Edited September 19, 2010 by razerface

[razerface]

well I got out there and worked some more. I took the sending unit out. It barely makes it thru the hole cause you can't twist it as far when the floor is there!

I thought maybe it was hitting the bottom of the tank, but it wasn't. It is in the same position as the old one when down. Out of the tank, it still reads 1/4 tank to full.

Can I adjust it? Is the 12volt doing something to it? Tearing the gauges out is next,,but I don't know what I'll do to them when I get them out ... just stare at them I guess.

[MBF]

Do you have the required resistor between the power source to the gauge, and the gauge? I''m hoping someone can tell me what the value is for it so that I can make mine operational. Also need to do the one in the 36 Plymouth.

[razerface]

i think this is the answer. I read (approx) 4,567.8 threads before someone named the resisitor needed. Everybody just says "you might need one".....

anyhow, it seems expensive so check around for a better price. Here is a link that tells about them and also has reducers and other cool 12volt to 6volt stuff.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducer,2374.html

[razerface]

coming back to finish the thread.

I got it all to work. I fixed the gauge reading 1/4 tank by putting the "Runtz" resister on the back of the gauge.

To fix the needle jumping,,, the new sending unit had to be replaced. I could feel the break in the sending unit as I worked the lever. We hooked it back up outside the tank and watched the gauge needle when the sender went across the break, it flipped back to "e".

Roberts replaced the sending unit, but told me it was my fault. He says that when you tighten up the screw holding the wire on top,,,,if you tighten the screw too tight, you break the sending unit and cause the needle flip. I did have the screw tight because ,,,,well,,,,I hate loose stuff. Maybe it was my fault? Beware ,,and just snug the wire I guess. Seems awful fragile,,,I only used a screwdriver.

I made a tool to take out the sending unit from the access hole in the cab. That worked out well. I learned that when you put the old sending unit in and using the old retainer ring,,,if they both are rusty or rough, it may grab and turn the sending unit as you are tightening the ring, bending the tab. A dab of grease smeared around the bottom of the retaining ring cures this.

I drove around last night trying to waste some fuel.....just so I could see my gauge work! Really the only thing I did was find out I have a really hot heater! That baby can run you out or make you roll the window down! It isn't real cold yet though,,,,,,

Edited October 5, 2010 by razerface

[bach4660]

If you have a 6 volt battery and a 6 volt gauge the sending unit should not matter as it is based on resistance, right? Or am I mistaken here.

A 12 volt battery on the 6 volt gauge would need a resistor.

[razerface]

If you have a 6 volt battery and a 6 volt gauge the sending unit should not matter as it is based on resistance, right? Or am I mistaken here.

A 12 volt battery on the 6 volt gauge would need a resistor.

that is correct. my truck read 1/4 tank until I added the resistor