ot 50s' A/D trucks ot

[p24-1953]

i know that a few guys on here dable in 50's chevys also so i will ask this here also.

well after having a infant i have now started to realize that the 2 seater Chevy SSR truck will not continue to work. i also have a 53 / 4 door we use as a church/grocery getter, but i enjoy driving around with the dogs in the back of my current truck and i dont want to have to worry about damaging the plymouth w/ building supplies as we work around the house, so... i have started looking at my options. i dont want a SUV, MiniVan or new truck.

I have found two possible trucks some what locally.

i have talked to both sellers, it seems the stock ( $2,500) one runs well, needs brake work, but the rust to the corners was repair 10-15 yrs ago and has no new rust. but the frame is saging in the middle behind the cab. (what could cause this?) my gut says run far away and fast.

the ($6,500) one is sitting on a s10 frame with disk brakes and power steering, the stock 4.3 v-6 is smoking but they are throughing in a new crate 350 and a new 600cfm carb. the 700r4 transmission is in good shape and does not slip, but the cab corners and lower edges of the bed are starting to rust out. i felt the higher price could be justified by the s-10 work done but is that a fair thought if you know there is rust?

Biggest question... how wide are the stock bench seats? can they fit 3 people? or 2 people and a car seat?

[rustyzman]

The frame sag on the older one could be from rust or heavy overloading. No matter what, if it is damaged, you have repair in your future. If the older one is stock you are likely looking at a babbit pounder engine. Solid and tough, but still a splash fed lower half. It could have the later full pressure engine though.

The newer one might be nice depending on who did the work. We work on a 51 1/2 ton that has a new crate 350 and th350 trans with a newer GM rear axle. It is pretty nice to drive. This is a stock frame vehicle, but the torque tube has been replaced with a conventional driveshaft.

The rust is a big factor. If were are talking lots of bubbly rust through on the lowers, you know you are in for some real work. Plus look closely at the front lower cab towards the rear of the front wheel, could be more there. Good news is the Chevy guys are really spoiled and can buy virtually every panel on the truck out of a catalog. At least for the 1/2 tons.

I'm cheap, so $6500 on a truck with rusted out lowers seems high to me. But again, I'm cheap.

Thinking back, I believe with an automatic you could do three across OK. At least as OK as any other older bench seat truck. Car seat would require some serious thoughts on adequate bracing for good attachment of the seat.

[james curl]

I have a 55 Chevy 1/2 ton, step side, 235 I/6 w/OD. That is all my wife drove when the daughter was little until she started college. The seat back on some models folds forward for access the the area above the gas tank. I anchored the seat belts to the floor boards with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and installed a channel against the floor for the bolts to go through. We have four seat belts in the truck, for the wife and three little girls that she took to dance classes after they were out of the car seat. We mounted the car seat in the middle and the three of us road everywhere in the old truck without any problem. Much better than a 77 Honda accord with the car seat behind me when I drove. I would suggest that the first thing you should do after acquiring any old pick up is move the smelly gas tank out of the cab, you will be glad you did. Full size Chevy blazers and tri five Chevy gas tanks will fit in the back under the bead where the spare used to mount. You will do good to find a running advance design for $3000.00 that you can drive daily.

[Flatie46]

Personally, I'd look for choice number three. I don't know how it is where your at but around here I've seen alot of projects cut loose for finacial reasons. I've been tight for money myself and had to fight the urge to bring something else home. A few weeks back I was offered a solid 48 chev truck complete for $800. The orig engine run, needed a battery and some tinkering to drive home. I could have made money on it but I promised whats her name I wouldn't bring anthor one home till I could drive the 46. Put the word out, shop craigslist and talk to anybody that sells parts or works on cars. Some one some where is needing to sell what your looking for.

[p24-1953]

here are few pics of one of them...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42580742@N02/4690973872/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42580742@N02/4690973292/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42580742@N02/4690972920/

it looks like to mee that the gap between the running boards and front fender and cab/bed seem a little off? what could cause this?