Rusty Trunk Questions

[Bingster]

I've finally dove into removing the rust from my trunk compartment and I have a few questions.

Overall the sheet metal is okay with some rust through spots along the ledge where the trunk latch is located. I've been thinking about doing a Desoto Suburban treatment in the trunk by bolting a piece of plywood with aluminum or chrome strips running vertically. Even if I do go with carpet, the pitting in the metal won't show anyway.

But the rust holes are another problem. I doubt welding would work due to the poor sheet metal that would burn through. I was thinking about making some new metal strips to overlay onto the ledge area and more or less rebuild it.

Now, I've heard of an adhesive for autos that claims to be as strong as a weld. I forget where I saw it. They talked about using it in the trunk compartment.

Then there's fiberglass, but I think I like the metal strips/adhesive idea better.

And then, Eastwood sells a seam sealer caulk. Quite pricey. I was wondering if any of the standard butyl caulks for roofing or some other application would work. I've chipped away what looked like factory seam sealer but it seemed (pardon the pun) to be applied rather haphazardly. I was wondering if somebody tried to seal the trunk at a later date.

The other thing is the spare tire wheel well. Rusted through badly. I recall some of you had some ingenious solutions to this.

Well, I'd appreciate any tips. Thanks.

[aero3113]

Is it JB Weld?

[aero3113]

There are places that sell new trunk pans. Check out this site,

http://www.rcarfabrications.com/home.aspx?storename=rcar

[Joe Flanagan]

The wheel well in my trunk was badly rusted, too. I fabricated a new one and welded it in:

[BobT-47P15]

Some have used a trailer fender.

[Bingster]

Thanks for the input so far.

Joe, what gauge steel did you use?

And no, it wasn't JB Weld. I believe it came in a cartridge.

[Joe Flanagan]

Bingster,

I think I used 20. The product you're thinking of may be called Fusor (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?). In my opinion, the best thing would be to replace the bad metal rather than introduce anything that could absorb/trap moisture and create problems for you down the road. I was able to stitch up a lot of pinhole rust with my MIG. It was time consuming and frustrating, but I managed to do it. Where the metal was so compromised it wouldn't take welding, I cut the bad material out and welded in new. Check out some of Tim Adams' work and see how he has sectioned floors, etc. Just take it one area at a time.

I don't know if this is the area you're talking about near the trunk latch, but here are a couple of before and after pictures of what I had.

On welded seams I used a product called UltraGlass, which is a two part filler with milled fiberglass in it. It's intended for welded seams and is waterproof.

[Bingster]

Joe, you do nice work! I don't weld. I do have a pro welder in town who did my floor board. I guess I could have him take a look and see what he could do. I think Fusor is what I saw before. Thanks.

[Joe Flanagan]

If he isn't too expensive, I think that would be the way to go. Then you'd have peace of mind and know you wouldn't have to touch it again or keep checking to see what's going on back there.