DanOlson Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 Has anyone measured in detail the brake master cylinder? Like mounting pattern and length? Maybe I should have started out by asking, has anyone found a bolt in replacement dual chamber model that does not require moving the steering box? I searched the old emails but did not come up with anything. Dan Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 Dan I have looked into this subject at length and have found nothing that will fit into the original mounting location. Moving the steering box and shaving off the mounting boss is so far the only way for the original location. The guys at the parts counter run when they see me coming. Although I have not finished and tested my alternative, this is what I have tried (see pic). It is quite involved and requires some alterations to the pedals. Tom Quote
tinlizzy Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 Tom it looks as though you have done a very good job of relocating the master and thus able to use a dual cyclinder. What did you have to do to the steering to make this set up work? How did you mount the side that holds the clutch pedal in place? Did you fab your own bracket to mount the master? Lee Quote
Olddaddy Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 I've taken a try at this myself. I'm the guy who moved the steering box forward and mounted a dual reservoir unit in the original location. It's very possible that there is a master cylinder out there short enough to do away with moving the steering box, but I haven't invested the time to find it. You only move the steering box about half a hole forward, or maybe 1/2" total. You can elongate the original holes and get enough room for the MC to mount. Still, it freaks people out to do this, so finding a short MC would be the best route. I looked at late model units from a variety of cars and trucks, but nothing looked good to me. If you were very talented and had a mill you could mill the original mount down a 1/4" below flat and have clearance for the MC I used, Napa #36283. You could even mill down the mounting surface of the MC, but this makes it a very custom job if you have to replace the MC. If I had a pilothouse truck, and sadly I do not, I would spend some time finding a short MC. Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 Lee Yes the bracket is home made. Other than trimming the brake pedal and the pivot brace not much changed with the pedal's. The brake pedal sits 3/8" closer to the gas. This set up put the the M/C pointing rearward making the steering a non issue. As you can see the bracket mounts to the tranny and a brace connects to the bellhousing mount. Sorry that the pic's are not that good. I still have to take everything apart to finish and I was going to take good shots of everything then. I have been to busy to get the brakes finished so I'm not completely sure this set up will work. As it sits the brake pedal has full travel. Just talking about it makes me want to get out to the shop and plumb in those brakes!!!! Tom Quote
carl b51 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 It looks like you have done a very nice job. I beleive you said you cut 3/8 of an inch off the pivot on the brake pedal so I am assuming that the plate you bolted to the brake arm that pushes the master cylinder rod is 3/8s thick. Is this correct ? I see you still have the drum brakes. original or updated ? Carl Quote
Guest Kuster13 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 I made up for the thickness of the bar by removing material from the brake pedal and the bushing that bolts to the side of the bell housing. Some material needed to be removed from the pivot support that sits between the clutch and brake pedal so the bar has full travel. A bracket had to be made for the pedal return springs. When I started this project I knew the front brakes were shot. The front axle, king pins and springs were long past worn out. Since my truck is a 1 ton, a friend was wrecking a 57 1 ton and after some research I found the 57 front axle to be the same as my 50. The only difference was that the brakes are different. The 57 drums measure up to having never been turned. Local parts store carried shoes, wheel cylinders and spring kits. Brake adjustment for the 57 is like the adjusters that are common today.The rear brakes are original but again I lucked out and there is lots of material left in the drum. Tom Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.