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I need some advice connecting the vacuum line from the carburetor to the vacuum advance. The carburetor vacuum fitting is 3/16 double flare. I'm thinking of using 3/16 CuNi brake line from the carburetor over the top of the head and connecting the other end to a hose going to the vacuum advance so the distributor can move freely. How Dodge set it up at the factory is an open question.

So, I pulled my engine a few months ago (5 or 6 really) to fix some leaks, repair a framehorn crack/bad repair, and tidy up the engine compartment a little while attempting to install the dual carb setup with the 94's I have with my Shanafelt dual intake. Plagued with problem after problem, but at least the car runs now, though I am still needing to repair the distributor. I cleaned out my water passages, and boy did they need cleaning. I never should have been driving the car from the looks of it, LOL. Don't trust that others took the time to work on the motor as needed when you buy them. I did drive the car for a year and a half, but she got a little high on the temps when pulling grades around here, so I wanted to make sure she was cleaned out. When I pulled the rear core plug, I found that it was completely plugged from rust and sediment, at least 3 inches in. It took a while with a hot pressure washer to clean it out, but she finally spilled her guts and I got her back together. Put on a new water pump. I got the engine painted and re-installed, went to start with new to me dual intake setup and dual exhaust, fired and started, but couldn't get to run reliably. I then pulled the dual intake off and put the old single barrel on, to find that she was still acting the same. A little troubleshooting and found that the vacuum advance unit had rotted out, so I pulled one from my rebuild core and installed it. I got the car to run and drove it home from my buddies shop after installing a hacked together repurposed dual exhaust system using his two post lift...kinda made it home. On the ride home, I was driving it up one of the hills (grade really) and she started to spit and sputter, then would clear up, then sputter when turned, but run good on flat ground... ARGGGH! Made it home at midnight essentially, the night before my clubs car show. Needless to say, went to show without my ride, but I'd already taken up my buddies 54 Chevy Wagon, so I had a vehicle to drive. I took another look at it this past weekend, because the starter seemed to be giving me trouble. Sure enough the bendix was not retracting on the starter and was staying engaged. I also noticed that the motor would try to rotate backwards a bit when the starter button was disengaged. I originally thought this was related to the starter problem, but when I pulled the distributor cap to aid in removal of the starter, I saw that the breaker plate appeared askew. Sure enough it was loose from the bearing. I pushed it back into place, still unsure how exactly it sits in there, I think it may be a pressfit, so maybe the tolerances are worn. I have another old distributor I am going to see if I can make work, otherwise she may be down for a while until I can afford an upgrade to the Langdon 12v GM style Distributor. A real shame, as I will then have 2 positive ground pertronix units i'll have basically wasted my money on, at least until I get the 1941 Military Dodge WC-12 and WC-21 that I have kind of been told I can get when I can afford them. I'm just a little frustrated that the car had been doing wonderfully until I decided to "freshen her up a little". I almost think I never should have touched her, made her kinda irritable

File Name: Distributor information File Submitter: Don Coatney File Submitted: 13 Mar 2013 File Category: Reference Information 1935-1953 MOPAR distributor information. Click here to download this file