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I am about to try to rebuild the front end on my 1954 Plymouth Suburban. I noticed in the manual that several "special" tools were mentioned. Are they REQUIRED? If so, are they available? Does anybody have a video of this process or a series of pictures with do's and don'ts or recommendations?

I got to spend 4 July working on my Plymouth. The task at hand was completing the Parking Brake repair on the P20. When I bought the car it was only barely functional. The brake lining was worn very thin, the cable was at maximum tightness, the return spring was missing, the cable under the dash was badly bent from no return spring, etc. I ordered a new cable (I don't remember from where) but it turned out to be 5" short, so I had to extend it with a threaded rod and coupling nut. No pictures of it yet. I also ordered a remanufactured parking brake band assembly with a fresh lining. That seems to have a slight bend in it that doesn't quite match my drum. I'll have to watch it. But my release springs were rather smushed and crooked. Was this from being over tightened? The picture below has them on the adjusting bolt in the wrong order... I couldn't find replacements of the lower one and the upper (longer one) that I found was $13 (without shipping) so I decided to make my own. I found some springs with similar wire size and coil diameter at a good True Value hardware store in town. I measured the length of my existing smushed springs, added 10% and 1/2 coil and then cut with a Dremel tool. Held the cut coil with pliers and heated with my torch. Finished with this: Installed they looked like this: My car didn't have the hand brake lever return spring, and thus caused some of the problems with the cable. I had asked here on the forum where it attached to the car. I got the impression it didn't much matter so long as it was behind the parking brake mechanism. This bolt from a seatbelt was available. I had ordered some random springs several months ago, but they seemed ill-suited for this job. A different local hardware store had this spring (only one, no price, no UPC, no markings, not in their cash register system) and sold it to me for $3.50. It works great when I release the lever. I did the adjusting with the 0.020 feeler gauge, but I feel like I'll need to revisit this soon because the shoe doesn't fit the roundness of the drum perfectly. I tested it in the driveway and I can kill the engine with the parking brake. And I tested it on a substantial hill, and it will hold the car without it being in gear. Good enough for me -- not likely to do either thing in real life. I have the Mopar parking brake switch installed, but I haven't wired up the buzzer yet. Will do that soon. OFF TOPIC QUESTION: My drive shaft universal joint boots are ripped and the grease has been thrown out. What is involved to replace the boots?

The springs on my woody are no longer as springy as they should be. Basically it rides like a truck! I have removed the #2 leaf from all the stacks and it still rides pretty rough. Part of the problem is I think the springs have lost some of their arc, and they also have pretty serious grooves worn in them. My Dad drove used the wagon on an almost daily basis from 1949 until 1987, and has a LOT of miles on the original springs (and everything else!) I have replaced everything except the leaf springs themselves, so it is not any of the other parts. Does anyone know of a source for replacement springs? Or given the fact that replacing original equipment always seems to drive the cost up, is there a possible replacement from a more modern vehicle? If I can find something to fit, I don't mind sourcing from a junk yard. Maybe even something that will fit, but provide a little softer ride. I don't intend to carry any heavy loads, so heavy duty is not necessary. I really puzzles me how modern trucks can ride like a Cadillac, and still get the job done. Mike

Hi, new to the forum. I have a 51 b3b truck. I'm replacing the fuel tank. My question is this. Do you need to use the springs and bolts or can it be bolted to the frame directly. Thanks for any input.

Hello, I am cleaning out the extra stuff I have had for awhile. <edited by moderator, please repost in classifieds>

So I really have no Idea if this is going to affect the ride to much but I hope it works! Almost complete with the front end and I found a pair of air shocks from O'reillys Auto Parts. Had to press a metal sleeve out of one end and modify the size of the rubber hole with my drill. Got one on tonight and hope to have the other one on tomorrow! I'm looking for a little bit lower ride and stance on the truck and thought this may work. My plan is to rob an air tank off one of my old big rigs and install a small 12V air compressor in the truck. When I'm out cruising I'll try to have enough air in them to keep the tires on the ground and when we go to cruise night every month drain the air and drop the truck a few inches???? Took two leafs out of the spring pack and slicked them up a little! If you have any thoughts on how this might work I'm ready for the heat! Will slap a set on the back when I get there soon! Landon