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Need to make a decision and move forward in regards to a front brake decision.///stay oem drum and shoe, convert to disc,...Scarebird ?? As previously stated in the forum, the customer service associated with Mr Akers alias "Old Daddy/Rusty Hope" is absolutely second to none, really good communication and a good product, we just shared a couple emails on this subject, and he mentioned how much he thought of the folks here on the forum - really nice fella. however I do like the method utilized by Scarebird, which allows the car to be easily converted back to stock in the future, if desired....due to the lack of drilling and tapping. Trying not to box myself in on this, that said - the plan for now is to replace all brake lines, kit the oem mastercylinder and re-use it...(the oem brakes on this car did work when I purchased it and then immediately parked it and began taking her apart...master cylinder was not dripping, etc..but obviously I will take it apart and go through it...) ANYONE OUT THERE RUNNING A SCARBIRD DISC KIT UP FRONT WITH THE STOCK OEM MASTER CYLINDER....... 1946 p15 Plymouth Club Coupe ?? I've seen on Scarebirds ebay web site, where the question was asked of them, " will the disc kit that fits the 46-48 Plymouth 10" drum, 3 hole spindle,....work with the oem mastercylinder ?" and the ebay answer/reply back was YES... I realize my capitalized letters question above would be best answered by the Scarebird company itself,...but maybe some of my forum member brake guru's who've been there, done it, and "got the T-shirt can provide some real world experience and knowledge to my on-going mopar education..... From the forum archives I've learned enough to be dangerous, .... regarding valves, the master cylinder's elevation in respect to the wheel cylinder or caliper, etc....great info., but what I'm specifically reaching for here is in regards to the bore size of the oem master cylinder in conjunction with the Scarebird disc's,......I guess in the end just looking for a brake pedal that doesn't take an excessive amount of force and should last with proper fluid maintenance and normal driving conditions. Thanks in advance for the help, all replies encouraged and welcomed. (Chuck thank you for your patience with me in regards to this, I appreciate it),... Steve

Part of the reasoning to get my son an 'old car' for when he had his license was that he had to invest time in making it safer before he could drive it. So today, Jacob, now 15, is starting the process of converting the front brakes to discs (yeah, I know some are quite happy with drums and in all honesty, the drum brakes had been redone relatively recently in the car's life before we bought it). But we are converting. So I'm going to try to get as many details as possible. Started by taking off the hubcaps and loosening the lug bolts (don't forget that the L on right side is left-hand thread). Made sure the back wheels were chocked on both sides and the parking brake (only functional for 2 days) was on. Left the car in gear. Started the jacking. I've got a pair of 6 ton combination jackstands up front and put another pair under the frame (one behind each wheel). You can see them in this photo. Finished jacking up the car and took the wheels off. More to come.

I sent this email with pics to Scarebird a few minutes ago, regarding mounting up the brake hoses to the calipers on my Scarebird brake kit. I would also appreciate any feedback from members who have installed the Scarebird front disc kit on your P15's. Thanks for the help. Steve To Scarebird Today at 12:08 PM Scarebird, Question please in regards to connecting hoses on front calipers. I've attached three pics in reference. Question is in regards to the proper clocking/routing of this brake hose. In attached pic#2 (4888.jpg) you can see the angle of the hose to caliper banjo connector. Question: Initially I loosely mounted this hose up with the hose angle pointed inward (away from routing over the top of the caliper). I did this because mocked up, with crush washers, it aligned up and fit square, nothing hit. But the hose route was tight and did not look like the route I saw in my paperwork. Then I had the brain fart to turn the steering a full left to right, which showed that the hoses would hit the shock absorbers. So I flipped it over and attached as in pic #1 (4887.jpg), pic#3 (4893.jpg) and noticed that the hose route now looked much more like the zerox copy pic I rcvd with my kit. To mount the hose as shown in pic#1 and #3, approx. 1/16th + inch had to be filed away from the lip/edge of the caliper to allow the base of the banjo conn fitting to clear the caliper housing evenly on all sides. (You could see it in the crush washers, as you got snugger with the bolt, the washers were cocking high on the side where the brake hose exits the connector, due to that angle of the connector. Also, with the banjo connector mounted in this position on the caliper, one of the flat edge's of the banjo connector is parallel with the molded cast iron anchor tab of the caliper, however it's not an interference fit at all - there's a small gap present that would allow the banjo connector to move some before the edge of the connector would come in contact with the cast iron tab block.. Am I anywhere close to having this right ? Should the Banjo bolt, when tightened down to adequately crush the crush washers be enough to hold this hose in place ? Trying to be pro-active on this end, although I'm quickly seeing where my years of replacing parts on vehicles can fall short, when it comes to experience and knowledge. Thanks again for your help, ( rounding third almost home with this, I should be good to go after this ). Steve

I just completed the 1st step in this Scarebird Disc brake conversion to the front of our 1946 Plymouth Club Coupe. Everything went easy breezy, however when the hubs are seated, snugged up, castle nut in place, etc...buttoned up.....I have just slightly over 1/4 " of the spindle lobe, that the inner seal rides on, exposed. This spindle lobe is 9/16" deep, and with 1/4 " - 5/16 " of the lobe showing, that leaves me now with the scarebird kit inner seal riding on the remaining outer 1/4 " - 5/16 " of the spindle lobe. Looks to me like the seal can still do it's job as it does sufficiently contact the spindle seal lobe, but I was somewhat disappointed to see that area of the spindle now exposed to the environment. Just wondering, if the folks on here who did there Scarebird conversions, also experienced the same thing ? In reading through the forum archives, I only found one individual who had experienced a problem with the hub inner seal not touching the inner spindle lobe, I believe Scarebird finally sent him a recommendation for a deeper seal. However I couldn't find anymore detail than that. Obviously, it's a kit, parts an pieces engineered together to work, but it has me wondering on this end, as I haven't read where anyone else has mentioned this in regards to their Scarebird upgrades....so just thought I might ask around....thanks Steve