Search the Community

I've been sidelined for a week on my engine build, likely due to operator error. I purchased a piston compressor at Harbor Freight, and was having a fun experience installing my pistons. 5 went in smoothly- the 6th wouldn't go, so I hit it harder -what else? I think the rings weren't squeezed enough because the top spring steel ring for the 2nd oiler hung up and was tweaked. For a second I thought that I could possibly salvage it, but realized that that was not only unrealistic, but foolish, as it could mean a later teardown and repair if it failed. I looked online at the various venders, but being a somewhat odd size (.040) over, none carried just what I needed. I would apparently have to buy another full set. I decided to call Robert's Motor Parts, as I had talked to Gary Roberts, and purchased the rings from him. He didn't have any singles in inventory, but rummaged through his spare parts bin, located what he thought would work and shipped them off to me. He wouldn't take any money for his trouble or let me even pay for postage. I'm a customer for life! I just finished installing the last piston and I can move on to the next @keithb7 video. Remember - if it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't!

I'm just starting the removal of my 230 donor engine to replace the 218 in the wagon. After watching all of @keithb7 videos, I think I can handle the job! Thanks, Keith! It is a running engine and actually sounds pretty good, except for a slight tapping sound that increases with rpm. I disconnected the driveline yesterday and plan to remove the 3spd from the block today so I can get it out. View it here: '56 Plymouth flathead running I did some compression tests and here are the results. The engine was up to operating temp on test 1, but on re-testing the next day, it was only slightly warm on test 2. Test 3 was done immediately following 2, but with a teaspoon of engine oil added to each cylinder. Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 6 Test 1 110 112 115 121 120 130 Test 2 115 120 118 128 128 138 Test 3 w oil 125 135 130 130 138 145 A couple of observations/questions: Would the differences between test 2 and 3 be traceable to rings, valves or possibly both? I am definitely planning to lap the valves. The service manual says the compression pressure should be 120-150 psi. How much does that change once the motor is broken in? The engine is listed as having a compression ratio of 7.6 to 1. How does that 7.6 to 1 ratio change if the cylinder pressures are lower? Does a 10% pressure drop in the cylinders equate with a 10% loss of power? The PO had some work done on the engine and the head was off - there is a new head gasket, water pump, fuel pump, gas tank, etc. How can I tell if he had the head shaved- i.e. what is the factory thickness of a 1956 Plymouth head? I couldn't find it in the service manual. My brother-in-law, who has rebuilt all kinds of engines, wonders if the tapping noise may be a rod bearing or a wrist pin, and thinks that I should do a complete teardown. Enough questions! Thanks for the help