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Showing results for tags '52 cranbrook'.
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Has anyone installed a rubber rear main seal instead of the rope seal? The slinger section of the crank would need to be machined off as I understand.
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What started out as a $400 -$500 wet sand and buff existing paint, went to a $1200-$1300 repaint. Shop called yesterday, it's done, total $4500 !!!!!!!! Love this hobby! Will get pictures when the rain stops.
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Has anyone used the carpet kits from JC Whitney(Newark Auto Products)?
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While my seats are out to the upholstery shop, been thinking about an electric fuel pump, still 6v pos grnd. Was watching Graveyard Carz during lunch today and saw a fuel vapor separator used on early big blocks. 5/16 inlet, 5/16 outlet along w/ 1/4 outlet for fuel return to tank. My thoughts are: no need for pressure regulator and fuel will be cooler due to constant circulation. I will remove the mechanical pump. My thoughts are to wire it thru a relay which is grounded thru a Ford inertia switch(in case of an accident). What do you guys and girls think? Here is a link to the separator(hopefully)!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-70-71-B-Body-E-Body-440-426-Hemi-Vapor-Separator-Charger-Cuda-GTX-Mopar-/202304823663 :
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Any suggestions for shocks on my Cranbrook? Found Gabriel for the rear but no fronts. Hate to spend $200, not that I'm cheap, OK I am cheap!!!! Thanks for any help.
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While installing my Milton 476 tire valves I noticed the wheel covers were off center pushing the tire valves sideways. Installed the Milton valves and centered the wheel covers, drove 60 miles round trip to a cruise in, checked next morning, front wheel covers were off center pushing on valve stems???? Have bent the tabs on the wheel covers for better grip, maybe it's the ho red paint I put on the wheels!!!!????
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Has anyone converted a GM 10Si 12v alternator to 6v pos ground? My generator checks OK, new battery, new O gauge cables, new V/R, after 10 mins. of driving stops charging. Went back to electrical shop, that said I needed a V/R originally, said they cleaned contacts in new V/R!!!!!!! While driving to a cruise in yesterday, stopped charging after 10 minutes or so, never charged all the way home, 70 mile round trip.
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Had a soft tire the other day, valve stem leak, removed it, has an oval shaped hole. Did a search found Milton #476 valve stem. Is this a suitable replacement or is there others? Also, would like to know suitable wheel color, did they match the vehicle??? Wheels are all black except spare, that is red. Car was originally light blue I believe, now grey. Thanks guys
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Filled box w/ 90wt., leaks just sitting in the garage. I know I won't know condition of the shafts(pitted/rusty) until disassembled, but for you guys that have experienced rebuilding them, is it worth it or just go w/ a reman.?
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On page 50 of the Plymouth Service Manual fiq.22, it shows an "anchor screw" that needs to be adjusted to obtain .015" clearance between the band and drum. Mine had nothing there!!! I screwed a nut onto the bolt all the way, put bolt into hole while placing another nut between the brackets. The nut between the brackets is needed to make the adjustment which required slots be ground into each flat in order to spin nut for proper adjustment. All I know is it worked. These old cars really bring out the fabricator in us!!!! I forgot to take a picture of it.
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New t/o brg from Bernbaum's is noisy w/ clutch depressed, very annoying and upsetting, everything else from them has been great .. Has anyone else had a issue w/ the t/o brg noisy?
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Confused as to proper installation of timing cover seal. The old seal had a smaller diameter section that was towards the pulley. The new seal (Fel-pro kit #TCS4155-2) also has a smaller diameter section, but looking at the seal lip, I would say the small section goes in toward the chain instead of out towards pulley. Any help greatly appreciated. 52 Cranbrook
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What do you guys suggest for sealant on the timing cover bolts that go into coolant passage? Teflon tape, pipe dope, ultra grey??
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Installing a Fram C134PL on my 52 Cranbrook. The filter has rubber grommets on each end and also comes with 2 rubber washers. Are the rubber washers needed? Thanks guys.
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Does anyone have a source for the gasket between the top and bottom of the oil bath air cleaner assy.? Not the one between air cleaner and carb. Measures 2 1/8" ID, .125" thick, .187" wide(3/16) Thanks - Update: found a gasket on a 55 gal bung plug that fit perfect.
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Inhibited by 4 weeks of hernia recovery time, I am limited to lite duty repairs on the car. So far I have repaired and painted the steering wheel, installed period correct headlamp relay, repair LF +LR lower inner door panels, removed cluster to clean old black material from glass, disassembled dash lite dimmer to clean contacts, today I removed the fuel sender(was stuck on full) , removed rust, cleaned contact and siphoned fuel from tank, reinstalled sender, also removed R. t/l assembly to clean ground surface for proper operation. Baby steps until I get the OK to dive in!!!
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Made some improvements to my original attempt at a brake centering tool. Old design on the left, new design on the right. Utilized pieces from a magnetic base tool.
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In order to eliminate possible sources of leaks, I was thinking why not put a vent in the top of the trans. by removing the small plug near the speedo pinion and installing some 3/8" steel line as a vent. I noticed there is a hole in the front for one of the shift shafts that is not covered by the gasket. Any thoughts on this?
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Are modern synthetic lubricants suitable for use in these vehicles? Having resealed the rear diff., axle seals inner and outer, transmission also, just wondering what to use.
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I see a plug behind the backing plate on each side of the rear axle housing, is this for possibly applying grease for the axle bearings. I plan on replacing the outer seals, but unless I fabricate a puller, I won't be pulling the axles. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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A guy near me is selling a Chrysler generator #1263975. Will this work on my Cranbrook? My generator #1343236.