I found some rear quarter window garnish molding for a 48 Dodge Coupe. Does anyone know if it is the same quarter windows as the 48 Plymouth coupe or if the garnish molding will fit on a 48 Plymouth coupe?
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Thanks for responding. Sometimes I get the feeling I don't know the secret handshake here. Steering wheelis shot. The back of it the connects to the spline is cracked in half and the wheel is cracked and split all over. I'll try your suggestion
My steering wheel is in rough shape in my 48 Plymouth coupe and I am considering a new nostalgic wheel. I cant find any info on the specs on the wheel or wheel adapter kit. I know you can't just buy any steering wheel, does anyone know what the name or size of adapter is or kit info?
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I haven't done it before on a drum this old and crusted, but with the race puller kit and a hammer and a punch it should have moved. Luckily the guy I bought it from on ebay is letting me return it
No they won't punch out but the interior diameter of the races is too large- I think whoever had the drum before either put the wrong size in and couldn't get them out or had it on a different application. Either way they are in there for good, I bought a race pulled kit and they aren't coming out
The race was welded or riveted on the NOS drum. They were made like that I guess. The old race was riveted in the old drum too. Same bearing from old drum and race was used in new one
I bought a NOS drum, the old one was cracked. The bearing sits farther in the hub. Is this a problem other than the dust cap not fitting back on? Why would the diameter of the hub be different on the two drums?
So I put all new wheel cylinders on and replaced the front passenger drum and hub. When I put the wheel back on the passenger front the spindle now sticks out 1/2 inch farther than it did before and the dust caps don't fit anymore. Why would that be? Any help
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I used Lizard Skin in my 48. Any opinions on this would be appreciated. Should I use a similar mat over the Lizard Skin? I went POR 15, then the sound skin and finally the ceramic heat skin
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I brought the drum and the shoes from the right side that was catching to a brake shop. Yes the shoes were saturated with who knows what and the drum was cracked and warped from somebody whacking on it with a hammer which you can see on the outside of the drum. So I need a new drum. Having shoes re-surfaced. Hopefully all this will fix the problem. Thanks for the help
So I replaced the springs with thinner springs, adjusted the screws in the back so the wheel spun freely but on the front right side it's catching still when I put the brakes on. Odd thing is in reverse it doesn't catch.
Ok I appreciate the feedback, I have the original manual and the aftermarket manual that I bought. Money isn't a huge issue but I want to do it myself and I don't want to waste money either. I'm new to this old stuff but not new to engines. The car was a barn find so EVERYTHING is crusty. I got it running but the brakes are proving to be harder than I anticipated
I took everything apart to clean and reassembled. Can I just adjust the screws in the back that are attached to springs? I don't have the tool that's in the manual and I couldn't find one on eBay.
I swapped out the master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders on my 48 Coupe. Bled them in the correct order, no leaks- when I push the brake pedal while moving I have to slam it to get any stopping and then it jerks to the right. Also when I rev too high it chugs and moves like it's my first time on a clutch. It's a barn find and I'm restoring it for the family- my mom was born in 48 and she passed recently. Anyway any help would be great thanks
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