Buttiman53

Well, found out the battery was on its way out, also. Just installed a NOS regulator and a new battery tonight, and it’s charging like it’s suppose to. All my old regulators show obvious signs of the battery contacts frying. I’m guessing a defective battery would possibly cause that. Anyway, I’ll keep my eyes on it to see if it continues to work properly. Now, to track down the mysterious intermittent, scraping metal clutch noise that just developed…………

I have a NOS regular coming soon. I'll let you know how it goes.

Hey, folks. Been a while since I've been on here. Bought a restored '53 B4B some 4 1/2 years ago and sold the '53 B3B last year. Having some issues with the B4B's charging system. Been through three regulators already and want to solve this issue. Frequently the regulator's battery cutout contacts fail to complete a circuit after starting. Revving the engine or tapping the regulator cover remedies this most of the time. Other times, the contacts fail the open after I shut off the engine, causing the ammeter to peg over to "discharge" and draining the battery completely. When I examine the regulators (all three and them) the battery cutout contact points look like they got hot. I don't know if it's the circuit breaker coil not operating properly or something else. The fact that I have had this problem now with three different regulators leads me to think that it's probably something else. The battery seems O.K. (checked it @ 6.4 volts today), though it probably is starting to wear being discharged completely so many times now. Generator puts out well over 7 volts (can't remember exactly how much the last time I checked). I see in the shop manual that you can service regulators by filing and adjusting contacts, among other things. Just wanted to know if any of you think I'm missing something here. Thanks. Ken Butti 1953 Dodge B4B

I had the same situation. Truck came with an after-market ignition switch. Bought a correct switch with key on Ebay. Removed the door lock and had a locksmith rekey it to the switch key. Only problem, I had to drill out the set screw to remove the door lock.

Some of us have a B3B that is registered as a 53. It's not unheard of that a 52-made model was sold in 53. Just check your V.I.N. tag for the correct model.

Desotodav- Interesting box on your truck. Too bad about the misplaced steering wheel. Guess that makes it more of a collectors' item. I've also seen the "Waterway Blue" on older Dodge truck color charts. I'm wondering if optional paint color choices in 1952/53 included past offerings. If that was the case, it would explain a lot. BTW, the color on my dash is the same as the fire wall and the inside of the glove box.

Desotodav & JaysonK- The colors of yours truck is what I'm looking for. Is that what the "Deep Purple Blue" looks like, or did you go with something else?

I've seen several paint charts for '52 and '53 Dodge trucks, but can't reference the original color on my B3B (see dash photo below). "Deep Purple Blue" was the color of my grandfather pilothouse Dodge, and it was much darker. I found a photo of a beautiful B3B with my color (see photos below), so I know someone else figured it out. "Ecuador Blue" shows up on several Dodge Truck paint charts, but is listed only for route vans. I found "Fairfax Blue Poly" listed on a "general" Dodge paint chart, and is the closet I've found. But, with all the charts entitled "Dodge Trucks", I've found nothing that matches. Any information you could share would be appreciated. Thanks.

The tie rod on my B3B also has a bend. Always thought it was part of the tighter turning radius feature for the "B" series.

My truck came to me with an after-market choke knob and cable. When I went through a small parts box that came with the truck, I found the original choke knob. Looks like water leaked into the box for some time, and the center metal is totally rusted away. I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to disassemble the knob. I've tried tracking down a replacement, but they seem to be rare as hen's teeth. Has anyone ever refurnished a dash knob?

Yeah, I know they're suppose to smell like that. It's just that my truck is a daily driver, taking me to work each and every day. And though everyone think it's a cool ride, a lot comment on the recognizable odor whenever it's around. Jury's still out on whether I will address it or not. I appreciate the advice to check if there's excessive blow-by going on. I suspect not, but need to confirm it. Much thanks to Alshere59 and JBNeal for their references. Exactly what I wanted to know.

The fumes are definitely coming out of the "road draft tube." The rusted-out cab floor doesn't help the situation. I'm repairing that soon. It still makes for a smelly, ol' truck to anyone around it.

I'm tired of smelling hot motor oil fumes. Has anyone modified their flathead with a positive crankcase ventilation setup? I was wondering if there are dedicated parts for this conversion out there, or if it's done on your own with common plumbing supplies. Thanks.

I found a rebuilt GGW 6001 generator on eBay for $185 and bought it. Installed it yesterday, and have never seen the ammeter needle move as much as it moves now! Charges like a big dog! I bought the generator from Bill Jungck of "Custom Alternators and Starters" in Happy Valley,Oregon. (503) 777-7172 www.pmxalternators.com. He sells on eBay as "sunflower20005."

I know this is getting "off-post," but..... My B3B-108's serial number is 85320376. The "Model Chart and Serial Number Guide" found on the DPETCA website lists 85313701 as the first number for 1952, and no ending serial number for that year. The "Deciphering your 1948-53 Dodge truck code" guidance also found on the DPETCA website lists serial numbers starting at 85313701 as 1952-53 model year B3Bs made in San Leandro, and 85322001 as the starting serial numbers for B3Bs built in 1953. This overlap has always confused me. The registration for my truck states 1953 as the year, so I always figured it was either built later in the production run, or shipped in 1953. It has the round rear fenders.

Yes, I polarized it. The truck was set up as a negative ground when I got it. I change the battery cables around to a positive ground, and the ammeter needle read backwards. I polarized the system, and it fixed it. Generator worked great since, until I tore it apart.

Well, I replaced the bearing in my generator this morning. Good news is, the growling noise went away. Bad news is, now the generator doesn't work. I noticed while replacing the bearing that it was an old NAPA rebuild, and looked pretty long in the tooth. Brushes looked good and made good contact. Commutator looked pretty worn, and insulation was coming off some of the windings. So, now I'm in the market for a remanufactured generator. Found one on eBay for $200, but it has a broken tab that needs welding. The only other one I find is what DCM offers for $250 ($350 including $100 core charge). Are there any other sources out there to consider? Thanks.

Thanks for the info. It's a late B3B made in San Leandro in 1953.

Never mind. Turns out Napa, AutoZone, and probably other part houses carry both the ball bearing and brass bushing. Sorry I didn't check sooner. Got worried I would have trouble finding them.

I noticed today, while troubleshooting my generator bearing issues, that the crankshaft on my '53 B3B has a noticeable wobble, mostly at idle. I took the fan belt off and tried to moved the pulley but it seemed snug. Wanted to know if this is "normal" for a 64-year old truck, and if anybody else has ever noticed the same thing. Hope it's not an indication of things (bad) to come.

I figured some of you folks have been down this road before, so I thought I'd ask. Was out driving my '53 B3B yesterday during a cold Washington morning, with the heater blasting away as best it could. Once the cab warmed up I turned off the heater, but swore I could still hear the fan running (it's a noisy fan - another project). Figured it was either the water pump or generator, so today I took the fan belt off and started the engine up cold. It's definitely the generator. Sounds like one of the bearings ran dry and is now growling at me. I'd to know what the numbers are for both bearings, and possible sources. I could tear it apart and get this info myself but my truck is a daily driver,and my only means of getting to work each day. I need to expedite the process as much as possible. Also, I see on the manual diagram that one of the bearings is a sealed unit, and the other a sleeve. I'm hoping I don't have to fabricate the sleeve bearing, if it turns out bad. Thanks for your help.

I like the one Reg posted. Looks straight forward enough, and I like the brass. Now, the hunt is on. Thanks, all.

Thanks for all the replies. I now have several options to choose from. Am curious as to the "stock" type of valve used on our trucks with a cable heater temp control? Are they typically the inline, bypass type, or the non-bypass type plumbed into the head?

I have a '53 B3B with a "CHRYCO Deluxe" heater. No fresh air inlet; just pulls in the cab air. All it has is a rheostat fan switch and the valve on the rear of the engine head for control. Would love to have a temp control valve on the inlet heater hose. Can anyone suggest a good after-market set-up out there? Thanks.