CSARebel

THANKS ALOT FOR PHOTO'S OF TOOLS USED, THIS WILL MAKE THE JOB EASY

Is there a tool that is made for a 230 Flathead 6 , That removes the intake and exhaust valves. I have seen tools made for V8 engines but any for a flathead 6

thanks you so much, the photo's help greatly, I got the inspection dirt/dust cover off De-greased it and cleared years of sand dirt from it. the inside is clean and teeth on flywheel are in great shape except for two missing teeth. I have a tool blue point GA-44 Flywheel turning tool

thanks for the photo's, I did not pull the engine out, it is still attached, but want to get this cover off, so I can see inside, last owner of the car must have lived in the country, I mean a dirt road. Engine and trans are covered with years of dirt,sand,alot of the parts clutch peddle,brake peddle,linkage for shifter was froze until I soaked it in 3 & One Oil.Like I stated before, I want to try and save the old D24 Engine and not throw it away. My next step if I can't break engine loose is to pull it and do the complete rebuilt. either way it will be a fun project.

nice car, sad to see it in the state it was in after hitting the light pole.

I am still working on unfreezing the engine after sitting sense 1967, I soaked the engine with Marvels & 3 & one oil, Valves are free, Pistons 2,3,4,5 oil passes pistons and ring inside cylinder wall, But #1, 6 penetrating oil still not going down around iron rings, I want to take off the dust/dirt cover under fluid drive, want to inspect it for anymore damage to flywheel, I only seen 2 teeth missing, maybe from same person who took parts off car years ago. I guess a pry bar, too see if crank would turn. it's froze, so (starter,Radiator,fan pulley, water pump,fan was missing along with Sisson Automatic choke). I now have all parts I found at local junk yard here.

why would I be in trouble? Parts easy to get here local junk yard

my bell housing cover is made of stamped sheet metal not cast iron.

I agree it is on the fluid coupling. but want to inspect it as a few teeth are missing

thanks for the engine transmission photo, There are 4 bolt at the rear of the housing, that need too come off then cover should come off?

How to remove the Dodge 230 Flathead 6 Fluid drive dust/dirt cover, I removed 8 bolts that I found two 7/16 and six 1/2 inch bolts but it will not come off, do I need to pull the engine , I want to inspect the flywheel, have a tool used for turning it, engine sat for awhile and need to spin the crankshaft. The engine and trans are still in the car.

Today, I had some luck I got the Intake & Exhaust valves free from Rust, Now I am re-soaking the Pistons using 3 in One Oil, I have been using a Rubber Hammer and a and tapping the top of block and side walls to get the oil down past the iron rings inside. Here is a photo of the block with the head taken off, notice the exhaust valves open, when I poured oil into head it came out threw valves

I have the time and no rush, I am soaking each cylinder with Oil and already cleaned up the Head, Light rust and carbon buildup but nothing bad no pitting. I have cleaned all of the bolt holes and water inlets of any rust or buildup from years of running and sitting sense 1967. The head looks great for it's age the cylinder walls look good from what I can see, except for light rust/carbon buildup. Yes, I agree the iron oil rings and pistons need to be free the I need to take off the valve cover and soak it as well, I am taking my time and will make photo's of how the rebuild goes and what I find along the way. Anybody know of any business who has the rebuild kits for a Dodge D24 flathead 6

Yeah, I just pulled the head off and yes there was Rust, Dirt, sludge, and 3 Exhaust valves open, so right now the whole thing is soaking in Oil& Marvel Oil treatment. I tried to turn it but no use, Oh well I guess I will pull the engine and rebuild it. At least the oil pan was full of oil when I got the engine, but I guess sitting for a long time and age has taken a toll on the engine, But I am up for the challenge to bring the old D24 engine alive again.

yeah, this is what is going on now, 3 cylinders hold fluid, other 3 oil/marvel runs out threw exhaust manifold onto ground, I will have to pull engine from the Car and take the next step, I tried to turn the crank with a large monkey wrench and it wouldn't move at all. should I pull the head off and get the oil directly into the pistons and valves. sense it is pouring out threw exhaust manifold,

the engine has been soaking for a week now

I have another 230 Flathead 6, wanting to save it, Is there a way to free up the parts without damaging them. The motor is frozen, been soaking the heads with Marvel oil and alittle motor oil, hoping to free up the rust around the rings. Then noticed the oil coming threw the exhaust manifold , does this mean that a valve is open (exhaust/intake )? Next step will be too tear engine apart, but again need to see if it is worth rebuilding if I can't get the crank shaft to turn.

Yes, I agree there will be alot of work to convert the car from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system. I had the starter rebuilt the generator converted to 12 volt by a local shop here where I live. The old cloth wiring as I said is long gone with age, I have a 12 volt voltage regulator I have to take time a plan it all out to make it work right. the car never had a radio in it, so I am not worried about adding one to the car. I will go to local electrical shop to get all wires of various gauges, colors red, blue, white, red, black, yellow, green to complete the 12 volt conversion,

I have a question, about the wiring of the engine yourself. I want to rewire the entire engine compartment, Replace old cloth wiring with new wiring and want to know what is best sense I already started the voltage conversion from a 6 volt to 12 volt system. And anybody know where I can buy battery cables for my 3 window coupe, I need the 3 set type the engine was stripped of parts when I got it. I have to get a new ignition switch with keys as well. Thanks

Thanks for the info, While I want to keep the car Original as possible without sacrificing Original 1948 look, The Original cloth wiring is too far gone and newer wire as it won't be 100% Original will be safer and less hazard under road conditions. I love working on these old Cars and trucks. I had a 1953 Dodge 2 door coupe back in the 1980's wish I still had it after my father passed, My mother asked to sell it. This is how the engine looked when I got the Car, It was missing the starter, Radiator,Water Pump,Fan with Pulley. I have all of the parts now from local junk yard here.

Hello, I am new here and have some questions about my 1948 Dodge D24 3 window business Coupe. I have started the work on the car, It sat around neglected sense 1967. I working on the engine right now got the Generator and starter out and being rebuilt to a 12 volt instead of a 6 volt system. The wiring is going to be replaced with new as it is too old and not good enough for higher voltage. The Flathead 6 is Marked D24 - I - 49488 (I) Letter i not #1, I had to get a radiator and some small parts from local junk yard. How difficult is it to rewire the total car is there a schematic for this ? The car is missing the Instruments (Voltage, Gas, Battery,Water Temp) Can you replace these with modern Digital readout types like I seen for some car /trucks I've seen?