jdrader2

Well guys, I’m officially losing my mind. I had the shop send me a few pics of my carb before taking it off the truck for rebuild. Kits ordered from Mikes (for a DTG1) and noticed a different number stamped on the fin. I was 100% convinced I had the DTG1 as it was a search back in 2015 to track it down. The carb in the truck is an E7R1. Sounds like the kits are the same from Mikes but is this actually interchangeable for a 1950 fluid drive 4sp? It’s also odd that pictures I find of the E7R1 online don’t show the dashpot but I do have one. here are a few pics as well. Thoughts?

Haven’t bought the kits from Mikes. They said there are two if it’s a complete rebuild. So they are ready to go but I wanted to find a place to rebuild them first in case they had a preference. I found a place in Hillsboro Oregon, Gene’s carb and Electric. They seem up for it and will let me know early this week.

Do you guys rebuild your own carbs? Checking back in to see if there were any shop suggestions out there.

The 1950 woodie is coming along. Brakes are good and all the odds and ends are shaping up. During the test drive the engine just didn’t have the power expected. Possibly a prob with the accelerator pump. The truck is a fluid drive with a DTG1 on it. I can get the rebuild parts from Mikes carbs but sadly he doesn’t do rebuilds anymore. Im looking for a shop to send it off to for a full rebuild. Any recommendations? I’m in Portland, Or but willing to send it out.

Hey all. Things are progressing well on the woodie. The last thing on the list is the temp gauge isn’t functioning. The place my shop uses to repair them is like a year out. I think my options are to try and find an NOS part, a replacement part from a vendor, or a different repair place. I searched on here for all three and came up short. Any suggestions for a 1950 Dodge B-2-B108 temp gauge?

Still work-in-process but we’re getting there. As always we’re finding more things to do since the restoration is 40 years old. The hardest part has been tracking down drums for the front and rear since they didn’t have enough material to turn. The rears were replaced by my grandpa in the mid 50’s to desoto because they were larger for towing. It took a lot of hunting but the shop tracked down a set and they are on their way. Really like the shop. Gibson Auto in Portland has been great to work with. Will circle back once it’s back on the road.

Just for fun, here are some pics of the rear drums. The thread on modifying something off the shelf was really interesting. Just doubt I’d get a shop to do it. The costs are already getting high and I have a long list of things to work through.

Sounds like the shop was able to find the 10” fronts (although the cost will be outrageous) but the rears are the issue. Again, we think they are from a desoto and are 12”x2.5” with a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. If anyone has ideas, I’m all ears.

1950 dodge b-2-b 108 truck

Hi all. I’ve tried searching but came up empty. During the full brake rebuild we determined that the drums are too thin to true up. plan B is buying new drums for a 1950 b2b-108. Unfortunately the rears were changed out by my grandpa to Desoto brakes for added stopping power while towing. So first things first, any idea where to buy new drums for our trucks? Second, anyone have a source for old Desoto drums out there? thx all.

Yah, might need to do the electric pump. I let it sit for a few hours and it wouldn’t fire up. Had to put some more gas in the carb. Maybe it’s still working off bad’ish gas in the hard line but we’ll see.

Hallelujah!! Got her running. Essentially I had to disconnect the flex line and made a make-shift siphon to get the gas up from the tank. Then put it back together and started feeding the carb as Los_Control mentioned. Noticed a small amount of gas in the glass filter bowl and figured it was close. Kept doing it until it fired up. What a process. Thank you guys for the suggestions. Now I can get it to the shop for the brake adjustments. Running a little rough but no surprise after a few years of sitting.

Nope. I’m still missing some thing. I tried to start it and cranked and cranked but no fuel is getting to the glass filter bowl. Just to confirm, there’s no fancy way to install these pumps correct? No push rods or some thing other than pushing the pump in? I have 10 gallons of fresh gas, so maybe I need to prime it somehow. You guys have been on a roll helping me, so hopefully you have another idea here. UPDATE: I disconnected the flex line from and placed it in gas while my wife hit the starter. No gas was drawing in. So either it’s a faulty pump, or installed it wrong. when we figure out we could turn the pump 45 degrees I did have it apart and on the inlet side I had to remove a small plug to change which inlet to use (putting the plug back in the other inlet opening. Anyway, stuck here.

Well, I got the fuel pump installed. A 4 post car lift would have been great but I don’t see getting that by the boss. I used gasket sealer on the gasket for the side attached to the truck….then installed everything else and about two hours later realized I didn’t put gasket sealer between the pump and the gasket. Hopefully it will seal ok or I’ll be doing it again real soon. The stuff said to wait 24 hours so I haven’t tried it yet. Fingers crossed.

You guys are awesome! I rotated the flange so it should work. Next challenge is the flexible line from the fuel pump to the hard line has the wrong end. My old one was a female to male on the hardline. New one is a male end. Heading to Napa to see if I can find an adapter. When installing the gasket, I assume I should use oil safe gasket sealer? Nothing was mentioned in the service manual, but seems like a good idea.

Well…I’m back again. I ordered a new pump from Roberts motors. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that it was different from my existing pump. The flange is in a different spot to attach to the engine. So either I look for one that matches my old pump, or I have to totally reroute the copper fuel line to the carburetor which seems challenging. Looking for suggestions on if my current pump is the wrong one for the truck or if the new one I got is the wrong one for the truck. that will help me decide if I try and find a matching new pump or find a rebuild kit for the existing pump. Or maybe I need to find a way to reroute the copper line. Here’s a picture of the old and the new. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

I keep trying Then and Now to get the fuel pump rebuilt, however it seems like they are only taking calls on Monday and Thursday and so far haven’t heard back. Anyone aware of changes in their service? And anyone have ideas on a Plan B to keep the progress in a rebuild?

That’s great. Thank you. One foot in front of another. ☺️

In preparation of getting my dodge woodie to the brake shop for a full adjustment I went to start it up after it sat for a few weeks. During the first start up a month or so ago I noticed some fuel dripping but couldn’t find the source. During this attempt it was streaming out of the fuel pump. So new challenge… I finally got the pump off the block which was way harder than I thought it would be. My goal is to get it off to Then and Now for a rebuild. Sadly I had to cut the flex hose between the fuel pump and the hard line but it was probably good because it was pretty brittle. I ordered a new one from Roberts Motor Parts. Question for all of you. I checked the oil and it smells like gas (bad gas). The truck didn’t run too long with the leak so I’m hoping I can just replace the fuel pump and change the oil and filter and call it good. Am I down playing the issue or missing steps here? Thanks all.

I was able to track down a recommendation to Gibson Auto and Electric in NE Portland. Mid sept before they can squeeze me in. Hopefully it’s a good new shop. If anyone has any experience with them please let me know.

Hi all. Been a long time since posting. Sadly it means the truck has been sitting too long. The good news is I’m motivated and working hard to get the woodie back up and running. I have a 1950 dodge woodie built on a b-2-b-108 chassis. My brakes were worked on my Steve’s auto restoration a few years ago. Stainless sleeves in the wheel cylinders and other goodies but they are very touchy and lock up easily. All the fine adjustments just seem to make it worse. I can’t find a shop in the Portland area that seems ready and willing to work on these old style brakes. Wondering if any of you have recommendations for shops with the knowledge. thanks for the help. Trying not to miss another summer of driving

Well unfortunately what came off the truck wasn't a DTG1 either. When I couldn't get the truck going over a year ago the shop said the carb was a combo of many things and seemed a Frankenstein carb. It looks to me like a Carter YF with some other stuff going on and few plugged holes. At the time they said this the D6G1 would be better and was a fresh rebuild. I've attached picture of the old carb in case anyone has thought on this set up vs. what I'm currently running. I do know that with this old carb, when it was working, the fluid drive ran great and everything seemed to be in order. But it seemed like the shop wasn't confident in finding all the parts necessary for the rebuild. Anyone out there interested in parting with a DTG1? Thanks, Jeremy

Well I guess it's always good to know where you're starting from I'd really like the right carb on the truck. Any idea where I might track one down at? I'm also thinking I have a cracked exhaust manifold.

Hello all. it's been a long time since I posted last time. I have a 1950 B-2-B Woodie that I'm getting geared up for the summer. It never really ran right last year but I managed. I had a shop put a new carb on and I think it's the wrong one. I have a fluid drive 4 speed. It's stalling on decline and will not stay running when I slowly let the clutch out while stopped or come to a stop without putting in the clutch. After looking over this site I'm hoping for a little guidance. The carb is a D6G1 and I don't think there is a dashpot. Before I go crazy trying to dial this thing in I want to make sure I've even working with the right set up. I attached a picture of the set up to see if that helps. Thanks guys, Jeremy Portland, Or

Sorry for the long delay. I think we're getting closer but still not there. It turns out that it wasn't flooding, we were just losing spark. It would run (timing all over the place) and then it was like someone turned off the key. Then it wouldn't start. We put a spark tester on and could actually see the spark changing and then just shut off. Now we're not getting any spark at all. We replaced the coil and tested the points but not we're just not getting spark at all or very very faint. Can you guys think of steps we should take? Battery is good (8v). Coil is new. Distributor was removed and new bushing put on. Points are working (we are getting some new ones but they seem ok). But we're just not getting a spark. Open to suggestions as we're starting to scratch our heads a bit. Thanks, Jeremy