Rumble1960

No broken rings and the pistons look great, I will mic the cylinders and see how deep the spots are and decide what to do. I know a re bore oversize would be best but expensive.

I'm going to post a couple of pictures of cylinder #4 and 5 of my flathead, it's a 1960 Sweptline pick up with 72000 miles on it. These two cylinders both have some spots that are actually indented into the wall, can anyone comment on what could have caused this, they had about 120 psi compression taken just before disassemble started. Pistons and rings look good and felt tight in the cylinder, I was hopping to hone the cylinders put new rings on and reseal the motor, which is why I took it out, it ran good but leaked oil. How do you guys recommend I precede from here?

The engine # is TP23 2II Thanks

For me the thumbs up and smiles on peoples faces is what it's all about! I live in a small farming community and when I drive the old pick up through town I love watching the reactions people have, especially the old guys that are having memorable flashbacks of days long long ago.

I believe the engine is the short version 230, I imported the truck a year ago from Georgia. Is there a way to tell for sure?

I just pulled the flathead out of my 1960 Dodge Power Jiant pick up. I was thinking about putting a modern day drivetrain into the truck but over the last year the charm of the old flathead seems to suit the truck just fine. Also at the couple of shows I took the old truck to people seemed interested in talking about the motor and how nice it was to see a original powerplant still in the 48 year old truck. So back in it will go, it has 72000 original miles, compression was between 120 and 130 psi taken just before removal. It has many oil leaks, the clutch and bell housing has indication of oil contamination. What I would like to know since I have very little experience with this particular engine is what upgrades I should consider doing to it during the process. Recommendations on performance upgrades would also be great but mostly I'm concerned with good sealing and reliability. Thanks

First time I've had to buy a clutch for a vintage vehicle. Can anyone suggest where I should shop for it. Its for a 1960 D100 with a 230 Flathead.

Brian check my post "Anybody have any thoughts on this" about a vibration I've been chasing for a couple of months now. Also I should mention my 1960 D 100's drive shaft has actually has alignment arrows on it which makes it easy to align, they were tough to find but they were there just as my service manual said. Rumble 1960

Well I did check the other thinks mentioned and everything checked out good. I'm now convinced it's the clutch, depending on how it engages it will vibrate or it will be smooth. I'll be pulling it out in a couple of months when classic car season comes to an end here. It will be interesting to see what I find I suspecting broken or week springs or maybe a bent release finger.

Thanks, a couple of good suggestions I will check both. The frequency of the vibration is related to engine rpm.

Thanks for the welcome, the truck came out of the US and is a 230 motor, when I had the inspection cover off I did loosen the pressure plate hoping it may align itself better, but this did not make any difference. As far as the flywheel I'll have to wait till I pull it apart to check it's condition. I just went on a 30 mile drive and I could get rid of the vibration every time in 3rd gear by pushing in the clutch and letting it up slowly while coasting along, it seems to be very sensitive to how it is engaged.

Hello all, new here and recently purchased a 1960 D100 the last year the flathead was available in a Dodge truck. I've been working on an intermittent vibration since I got it, so far I have replaced spark plugs, coil, wires, cap, rotor and points. Set the timing, removed the distributor checked and lubed the advance weights, and just yesterday set the valve adjustment. I set the valves the static way (engine not running) and also with the engine running and found either way yielded the same results. The engine compression is 120 to 125. Even though this vibration is also apparent in neutral when revving the motor I did pull the drive shaft so I could insure the U joints were good and they were, I did find that the arrows on the drive shaft and yoke did not line up so I corrected this, it made no noticeable difference. Now I am at the point suspecting the clutch because it seems that if I'm in 3rd gear going down the road and I feel the vibration I can push the clutch in rev the motor a couple of times and release the clutch almost every time it smooths out and as long as I don't push the clutch in again it stays smooth, I can slow right down speed up what ever it stays smooth till the next time I have to stop. I'll go through the gears same thing all over again. I pulled the inspection cover off the bell housing the clutch has a rebuilt label on it but from what I can see looks ok, the release bearing seems to have a lot of play but does not make any noise. Anybody have any thoughts on this?