Kansas_Nova

If the keeper isn't on the valve spring then shouldnt the valve spring be all the way down on the tappet? the tappet spins in it's bore which doesn't make sense to me. I will be able to watch it while somebody else turns the motor over to see if it moves at all but from the looks of it it appears that something is preventing it from cycling up and down on the cam.

I was working on the truck and getting ready to adjust the valves cold before doing it while the engine was running and warm. I was adjusting the valves because I have no compression on my number 6 cylinder on the 218 in my B2C. I figure it was valve related because all the other cylinders had great compression. I was by myself so I was not able to watch the valve as I turned the motor over but from what I gathered after turning the motor over an continually checking the valve position, it is not moving. Is there anything I can do without removing the head to try and get it unstuck? This is going to get sold relatively soon and I am not planning on getting in the engine much more than valve adjustments. It appears as if the spring has dropped down below the valve and moving closer to the tappet. Here is the only picture I have, its the far left one. let me know your thoughts. Thanks Nick

Any info on what size brake lines originally ran on this truck? are they the same size for the front and rear? I am starting from scratch.

It's been soaking in PB blaster for a while now and have tried a rubber mallet to no avail. Don't want to break it or but at the same time I need to at least be able to twist the distributor to change the timing at some point.

Recently when trying to work on my 1950 B-2-C truck I was trying to adjust the timing with the truck running and after loosening the distributor hold down bolt I was unable to turn the distributor at all and was also not able to completely remove it after the engine was shut off. Is there something I am missing here? I don't know much about these older flathead motors. I appreciate any help.

Anybody have tips for a brake job on these old trucks? I know that they can be rather finicky when adjusting the shoes so they don't lock up. I am going to replace all of the lines going up to the master cylinder as well as the rubber lines, and the wheel cylinders to get the truck moving and stopping under its own power.

That's odd that the spec for both valves when cold is .014' but only the Intake valve has a smaller spec when hot. One would figure that thermal expansion would act more on the exhaust valve.

Is it necessary to adjust the valves with the engine running in this engine? I know it's recommended to have it running but I am curious if it will still be effective to just get the motor hot and adjust the valves.

awesome I really appreciate that. anybody know where to get the junction block? It's not posted at oldmoparts.com

Does anybody know the correct size brake lines for this truck? I have no brake lines to currently reference. 5/16? I would assume brake line size correlates directly to what size threads are in the wheel cylinders.

I will probably use generic double wall brake tubing with SAE double flare ends. I am mainly needing a source for brake shoes, springs and wheel cylinders at a somewhat economical price. Thanks again.

I am working on building a whole new brake system, I have a rebuilt master cylinder and new brake hoses but that's currently all I have. I figured buying premade straight brake lines and bending them to fit the truck is my best bet for brake lines. I am trying to figure out the best budget friendly way of replacing or rebuilding my wheel cylinders as well as new linings for the shoes. Anybody have any tips on finding parts for the brakes without spending $50 for each of the 6 wheel cylinders? Also there are two nipples on the front of my master cylinder and since it wasn't on the truck when I bought it I'm not sure where it is designed to go. If there are any diagrams or pictures for you have that would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Great, I appreciate the links, looking to order the brake parts and tune up parts this week to hopefully have a running, driving, stopping vehicle within the next coupe weeks whenever I find some time to go back home from school for a weekend or two.

Just bought a 1950 Dodge 3/4 ton. It has the original 218 flathead 6 with a floor shifted 3 speed. Motor and tranny are in good shape. The 218 runs but it runs real rough, it needs a basic tune up and some carb work on the Carter ball and ball 1 barrel. It's a pretty solid truck relative to the age of it. Some minor rust along the bottom edges of both doors and some on the passenger floor board. Plans for this truck are to install a new wiring harness, 12 volt conversion, get the motor in good running order, get rid of the old centerlines with the huge weather cracked mickey thompsons out back and throwing it on some steelies with whitewalls, and replace some glass to get this truck road worthy. Future plans are dakota or s10 frame swap and through a mopar v8 in it down the road, but for now just have a nice old truck to cruise around. I don't have any plans of painting it or restoring the body or painting it. I do plan on replacing the rotted out bed boards in the bed, recovering the seat and making some door panels in the same material of the seat. I've tracked down some parts for the truck as well as some other forums that might be helpful for some information but any other tips or links you all have would be great, specifically if you guys can identify what carb it is so I can get a rebuild kit for it. Anyways, here are some pictures.