Scott1953

I can not re size the photos but if anyone is interested in seeing them I can e mail them. As to buying Hemi Stuff, I saw the ad for '241 dodge $200' and I almost crapped. I had the phone in hand immediately, thinking that it was the first year Dodge Hemi. But alas, it was not to be.

241 The 241 was Plymouth's non-hemi version of the 241 Dodge Hemi for 1955. Bore and stroke are the same at 3.4375” (87 mm) by 3.25” (83 mm). The block is the same block for all 1953-56 Dodge 241 and 270 polys and hemis, and also the 1955-56 Plymouth 241 and 259 polys. So the heads, intakes, water pumps, and oil pans all interchange. The exhaust manifolds do not. Given a good set of Dodge 241 or 270 hemi heads, these can be bolted up quite easily to the 1955 Plymouth 259 making a Plymouth hemi with P27 engine numbers and original Plymouth intake and carburetors. Guess I figured it out. It must be a plymouth engine. Wonder if it's worth $200?

having trouble posting pic. it looks like a one barrel carb and the valve covers kind of dip down between each of the plugs and on the ends. reminds me of a Chevy "w" motor. It's not a hemi. I can not re-size the pictures at this time or else I would post them. thank you, Scott

Well, here is a picture of the engine.

Hi guys, I have a 53 dodge coronet and i just found a guy that's selling a '55 241" HI PO motor. Is it the same block as the 241 HEMI with different heads? Also, what transmissions will mount to it? It has the bell housing with a little hole through it (about a 3" dia. hole) for the trans shaft to go through. He said it ran when it was pulled by the last guy a couple years ago. It's mostly complete except for air cleaner. What do you think it would be worth? Thanks in advance. Kind of considering putting it in the 53 dodge, or saving for an open hot rod. Scott

performed some tests and have a couple more questions. Please see update to the original question above. thanks, Scott

Hi everyone. This is my first car project. 1953 Dodge coronet 4 door. 6 cyl, 3 sp. I have replaced the battery and cables, it is + grounded with size 0 cables (new). When the battery was new, I could start the car with no problem. Well, it must not be getting charged because it will no longer start the car. HOwever, hooking up a jumper battery will allow me to fire the car up and it will run all day long. The wiring throughout the car is in pretty bad shape. and I have been replacing it one wire at a time, verifying the correct wire locations and sizes with an original shop manual. Well, tonight i pulled a new wire from the "BAT" terminal of the regulator to the ammeter thinking that this was the reason the batter wasn't charging. Started it up (with the jumper battery) and revving the engine i got a little bit of movement of the needle to the positive side. Then after a couple seconds, nothing. I did polarize the generator after doing the wiring (ARM to BAT, momentarily). Took off the regulator cover and restarted car. Revving the engine produced no movement of the cutout relay. My dad then closed the relay manually and the needle moved to the positive side, but not very much. Any ideas? UPDATE All the wiring has been replaced in the charging circuit. Still, after jump starting, i had no ammeter movement and with a volt meter on the battery, i saw no increase in volts (about5.8 to 5.9 running and revving). I did the gennie test from the manual by trying to 'motor' the gennie using jumper from hot side of starter sol. to the arm terminal of the gennie. nothing. next step from manual is to ground the field terminal of the gennie and try the hot to arm jumper. this allowed the gennie to motor around. according to manual this points to the field to ground circuit of the regulator. well, after closer inspection my regulator does not look like the one in the manual. by that, i mean the circuits seem to be different. My regulator says "American Bosch RGS6G113". My manual says "AUTO-LITE VBE-6001A. Can anyone cross the two parts and see if they match? Also, I still have a lot of wiring to do on this car as there is a lot of bare wire, disconnected wires etc on a lot of circuits. is this going to be a problem in trying to isolate and fix the charging circuit? I have disconnected the bus bar from the light ammeter that runs all the lights in the car. should i also disconnect all other wires from ammeter except the one coming from reg and the one going to the battery? Thanks a bunch everyone. Scott

Well, I'm pretty new, but judging by the looks of the distrubution tube and what i pulled out with it, I think that the majority of contaminant in my system is going to be more like mud and dirt as opposed to scale and build up. Thanks again for all the help. Don, Great picture, just looking at that, I think that I understand how they go in and stay in. There must be a small lip that the plug goes past and then the plug expands when hit and it catches on the inside of the lip. Right? Scott

So a standard 1 5/8" plug will work right? I do not need to get plugs for a 230 dodge?

I'd considered removing the plugs. To replace them do I just need to find a plug with the same diameter? How do they go in? From what I've read it seems that you just have to 'tap' them in with something that fits inside the diameter of the plug. If it's really that easy then maybe I'll pull them out and flush it again. Scott

Thanks guys. Judging from what I'm hearing and looking at the picture that Dennis attached, my tube was in fine condition other than it was covered with what appears to be dark brown mud. I backflushed the block through the neck on the head using a homemade adapter to hook up to my garden hose. Then I turned around and put the old water pump back on and flushed through the inlet and out the top of the head, but knowing what we do about pressure and the path of least resistance, maybe I should put a new tube in and flush through the water pump again? What do you think? I just want this thing to cool well. When I flushed the block i had good flow coming out. Scott

First of all an intro. My name is Scott and I recently bought a 53 dodge coronet 4 door. my first car project and i'm 34. Well, it runs ok but it was overheating and leaking (cooling system). I found and fixed a couple of leaks, ordered a water pump because mine was leaking badly. Removed the old water pump and figured i'd better pull that tube out and have a look. It's taken me about 2 weeks to get it out as I don't have a lot of time to devote to it. Anyhow, I was finally able to pull it free this afternoon. Now, the tube seemed to be really squeezed together (about 1/8 to 1/4" opening down the length of the tube. is that how it should look? I figured it would be more open with very little clearance between the block and the tube, mine was the opposite of this. Also, where to buy a replacement? I think that i'd read Vintage Power Wagons, anywhere else? Thanks again, this place is good. Scott