Scott1953

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=offenhauser+2257&um=1&hl=en&sa=N&biw=1366&bih=673&tbm=isch&tbnid=y-SbIoqqsJBr_M:&imgrefurl=http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D334090&docid=mXCSt484Giaf2M&imgurl=http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php%253Fattachmentid%253D653401%2526stc%253D1%2526thumb%253D1%2526d%253D1241459098&w=175&h=131&ei=iZxTUIO_NsaXyAHk3IHACw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=933&vpy=354&dur=1865&hovh=104&hovw=140&tx=110&ty=69&sig=104691054104172348174&page=1&tbnh=104&tbnw=140&start=0&ndsp=16&ved=1t:429,r:8,s:0,i:100 Hope a link to a hamb thread isn't forbidden but here's a pic of one from a recent run (2009). I just noticed another difference. Mine doesn't have a separate 4 hole plate on top, it is all cast one piece with the 4 holes.

Here's the bottom and ports. They aren't on the same plane, they are angled a little bit. I will post a pic up from an offy ad showing that it looks like one for the hemi but mine doesn't have casting numbers to verify it. Did offy used to cast parts and not cast part #'s into them?

Overall Length x Width = 15.75 x 11.5" Center to center on the front and rear bolt holes from driver to pass side is 8.5" What other dimensions needed to make a positive ID

Hi Guys, I've been out of the dodge/mopar scene a little while. I just bought this intake from a guy who wasn't sure what it was for. I think that i've figured it's for a 53-54 241 or 270 cubic inch hemi. They made them for the 54 pace car and then I'm assuming they made them after that for sale to the public. Then in '09 they did another casting run. My manifold has no casting numbers and the new ones have 2 bosses cast into the main runner on the back. ANyone lead me down a path of authenticating this as an early intake or possibly a 54 dodge royal pace car intake manifold? It came with a stromberg aero-quad 4 barrel that fits the intake pattern if that helps. Thank you, Scott

Tim Adams, I read and respect your posts regularly. I plan on buying a proper timing light and once I have it in my possession i will re-read your last post but until I can put a little 'hands on' knowledge with your words they are a little confusing to me. It's OK though, I will get it eventually. I appreciate all the answers guys and I will report back after I get a timing light on it. Scott

I would advance the timing by rotating the distributor clockwise correct? Scott

Rusty, Your description seems to fit what i'm hearing pretty well. I would have never thought to describe it that way though:). I notice it when in third and trying to accelerate hard, from maybe 30 or 35 mph up. I haven't gone ever 40 because the sound was bothering me and I thought it could be bad. Scott

Thanks guys. I now have another question that will cause some to chuckle, but what does it sound like if the engine is 'pinging'. Also, would the condition of the points/timing before i made the change cause the engine to run hotter than it should? Scott

Thanks guys. So I went from 56 to 40. this essentially shortens the amount of time the points are open right. so my guess is that spark intensity wasn't the problem. How would the dwell affect the timing? Could that be why it seems to run better?

Hi, I checked my dwell for the first time ever yesterday and found it to be 56*. I adjusted it down to 40* and the car feels like it's running stronger. Would that be the case or is it all in my head? I couldn't time it because i don't have a light yet but i hooked up a vacuum gauge and it was steady at about 22 in/hg. I tried turning the distributor to see if it would go higher but it wouldn't turn and it felt like i was getting a little shock so I stopped for now. So,what would dwell being so far out affect? I don't know much about this aspect of the car and my manual doesn't give me much help. Scott

Greg, No check balls in the rebuild. There is an inlet and outlet valve and I called Then and Now to verify the direction they should be. It is odd because it has run since the rebuild. I ran it out and around town and the freeway a little bit one evening probably did about 15 miles that night. everything was fine. Even tonight I pressurized the tank and got fuel flowing out the fuel line in front of the pump and then hooked up the line to the pump and had everything hooked up and I pressurized the tank again with everything hooked up and put a little sip of gas in the carb and started it and it took off running. It ran for probably 5 to 10 minutes in the driveway. after that time it stuttered several times and I coaxed it through those stutters but I could tell that something wasn't right and then it stuttered again and I couldn't save it. It died and once agian there was no fuel at the pump inlet in the line and none after the pump either. My pump doesn't look like that. I can get the number off it tomorrow if it would help. It is an AC pump but for right now that's all I can tell you. Thanks for the replied everyone. Scott

removed line from the outlet side of pump. cranked car without removing the coil wire and I did not get anything out of the outlet side of the pump. I wonder if I put the lever arm assembly in upside down? right now I've got the lever arm under the cam lobe. What if I flipped it over so that instead of pulling up on the diaphragm rod it pushed down? I don't think that is correct but I'm running out of ideas. How would I check the lobe to see if it's in spec? Pull the cam? Scott

Shel, I did blow back through the line to the tank. The air bubbled up in the tank but that may have just dislodged some 'crud' that was over the pick up. I've not ruled out the tank being a problem but due to the fact that I can't get it to pick up fuel even out of a gas can, I am not sure that the tank is the problem. I put a fitting in the inlet side of the pump and attached a fresh, new 3 foot piece of fuel line and put the end into a gas can and tried cranking the car and even pouring gas down the carb to get it to light off. It only ran as much the gas I put in the carb. I think I've narrowed it down to the pump's operation on the car (the pump itself is good and pumps when operated by hand) and the possibility that something in the carb is not allowing fuel in after awhile. I will replace that short piece of flexible line to eliminate the sucking shut possiblitiy. Thanks, Scott

Thanks for the replies. To answer some of the questions: The fuel pump was rebuilt within the last couple weeks using a kit from 'Then and Now'. So it has a diaphragm that's compatible with todays fuels. This pump sits right on top of the frame cross member and therefore doesn't have a glass bowl. There is a screen in the bottom underneath a metal cover. I checked that today and it was clean. It was replaced when the rebuild happened a couple weeks ago. I've followed the line all the way and can't find a filter. One thing i noticed is that there is a little bit of 'free play' at the beginning of the pump stroke before it gets harder to push the lever and actually moves the diaphragm. Scott

Hi all, I have a 53 Dodge Coronet D46 four door with the original 230 6cylinder. The problem started one day suddenly after about a 10 mile drive. I stopped at the river to fish for a little while and it wouldn't start. Determined that there was no fuel at the pump inlet. towed it home and rebuilt the fuel pump. re-installed it and once primed it ran fine. Took it for a few jaunts around town and on the freeway over the course of a few days and it started and ran fine. Today I started it up, drove across town and washed it off and drove back home. Shut it down for a minute and went to start it up and it wouldn't run. Again, no fuel in the line at the fuel pump, no fuel shooting into carb throat etc. Took off pump, put a hose into a gas tank and pumped by hand, it shot fuel out like crazy. Put pump back on, pressurized line through tank until fuel came out the line up by pump and then put that line onto the pump. Cranked car with outlet line off pump and no fuel came out the pump. I'm thinking the cam that actuates the pump is worn out. is that likely? also tried running the car with a short fuel line in a gas can to no avail. any ideas? thanks, Scott

DUH! it's staked. I was able to pop it out with little effort (don't know why it wouldn't come out the first time I tried that). I filed off the one stake area that actually 'took' during the original assembly and will fit the new one tomorrow night. Thanks. Scott

First picture is of the old, still installed retainer for the oil seal. Second is a picture of the new retainer sitting on top of the old, still installed retainer. Like I said, I could just pull the old retainer out (with some force) but am curious about how the new one is supposed to be held in place.

Nope not a snap ring. Fellas, please hang tight and I will try and get a photo up on the web tonight. Scott

Considered it but after reading about people having bad experiences with the new pumps I thought that I'd rebuild my own. That way I know it's right and if it isn't I only have one person to blame.

I bought a kit from then and now automotive to rebuild my fuel pump. It is an AC number 9926DK. Where the rod which is attached to the diaphragm goes through the oil seal up to the mechanism which moves it there is a rubber oil seal which goes in there around the rod and it looks like it's held in by a thin metal ring. The old one is still in there and I'm unsure how to remove it. I could just muscle it out but am afraid of damaging the housing in the process. Does anyone know what I'm talking about and how did you do this? Thanks for the help. This is the premier message board for these cars. I really should spend more time here. Thank you, Scott Frazee

Thanks John. Just checked it out. They list a brand called 'Rare auto parts' for the front shock and there is no pricing. I found a reference to this brand of shocks somewhere else online this morning. They wanted $106 each:eek: I think I just need to do the relocation and be done with it. Then I can (hopefully) use a more standard shock. The stock shock is very short it seems and therefore hard to find?

Hi all, I'm working on replacing king pins, bushings/bearings, wheel cylinders and bearings and cleaning and painting the front suspension components on my 53. The front shocks are no longer serviceable and need to be replaced. I've read about the shock relocation project and might do that using F1 mounts. I can't seem to find any 1953 specific shock information. If I stay with stock mounts does anyone know a shock that will work. I've been on Monroe and Gabriel sites this morning trying to match my shock measurements to their catalog with no luck. Stock shock #? Shock # if I switch to F1 mounts? Please? I'm getting frustrated. Scott

Thanks to everyone who provided insight. Cleaning out the block and checking the timing is next on the list after the front end and brake rebuild that I'm doing now. After I get to it I will try and post my findings. I really appreciate everyone providing advice. Scott

thanks guys. It isn't overheating or leaking coolant. It was raining the day that the hood was steaming. I had noticed in the past that the hood felt hotter than I thought it should but my temp gauge always said it was ok (180-190 whether sitting still or driving). I put an aftermarket temp gauge in it also and it read the same as stock gauge. I'll check timing and the heat riser valve. I believe the heat riser valve is working correctly but the timing could be an issue. I've never checked the timing (embarassed) so I'll have to get a timing light and I've read threads about 6V vs 12V lights. I still have and intend to keep my 6V system so I'll buy my timing light accordingly. Radiator was cleaned and has good flow. T-stat is new, water pump new, water tube is new also. I think that I need to clean the block out. That is the one thing that I neglected when i went through the rest of the cooling system. Maybe I'm being a bit of an alarmist too. It isn't overheating, I just think it shouldn;'t get the hood so dang hot. Maybe I should just have the hood louvered!:D Thanks again, Scott

Hello, There's a great amount of knowledge here and I was wondering if I could possibly tap into it. This past weekend I pulled my 53 dodge coronet 6 cyl out of the garage. Was just bringing it to my house a block away but got caught up in the moment and drove around for about 20 minutes. It was lightly raining at the time. When i pulled in my garage there was steam coming off the hood from the rain and the hood being so hot. I'd noticed last summer that the hood got very hot after running a little while. The temp gauge sits right about 180-190F and will stay at that temp all day long just sitting in the driveway. A few summers ago when i bought it the car overheated badly and was leaking coolant. I had radiator cleaned out and pressure tested. I replaced the water pump and the water distribution tube. I flushed water through the block but didn't remove the welch plugs. Is it possible that some of the water passages are plugged but the furthest back toward the firewall is open (that's where the temp pick up for the gauge is located). That would explain the gauge showing that it was not too hot. Anyone have similar experience? Perhaps i need to get a pyrometer and check temp of block near the front after running awhile? Thank you, Scott