Leviathan

Actually, the viable spark is only at the boot end...not along the wire itself. I am assuming it is coming from under the boot where it caps the plug. It doesn't make sense that it would be coming from where the plug threads into the head as that should be tight. I am going to wrap the crimped end (Not the tip) with electrical tape and apply d grease to the ends and see if that remedies the situation. Thank you all that responded for your input. Much appreciated!

Thanks for the response Bill. I am taking all of this into consideration and following through. I appreciate it.

No. Didn't use d grease. I've not in the past and haven't had issues. I will give that a try and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the input Jersey!

Hello Guys, Could use your assistance on this one. The '50 Chrysler was having some slight misfire issues...and tonight I popped the hood while it was dark outside and found that I could see spark, kind of a glowing spark, on each plug wire... which seemed to be originating from under the plug wire cap when it fired. I had cleaned the mating surface of the block where the plugs go in so it was clean and free of debris. I have replaced the plug wires twice...thinking that the first new set was faulty. The plugs are new (Autolite) and are gapped correctly. It doesn't idle terribly but does have a slight increase/decrease in rpm's, which I am assuming is due to being able to see spark coming from the plugs at night when the hood is up. Carb adjustment is correct so it's not that. Any thoughts on correcting this issue would be appreciated! Thanks. David

Ditto on the Wesley's. I use that then an SOS/Brillo pad soaked in water. Then scrub with a soft bristled brush.

That sucks, kope. Must be a old car ogre in that area. One of my fender skirts fell off just east of the Lowry Tunnel during rush hour on a Friday.

Welcome to the forum Frank! You will like this place as the many of the people here have a wealth of knowledge concerning our MOPARS. Most of which is not in our Shop Manuals...someone here has had experience with and are happy to share. Again...welcome and congrats on your new old '55!

Dang! Methinks ya beat me on your dist tube woes!

Iahti...the Farmall may suffice. I'd go for a Steiger for effect. Tat. I've read about the brass tubes. They probably would work more efficiently as less corrosive. But I opted for Bernbaum's. Went in perfectly. Last 2 inches tapped in snug with a piece of 2X4 and a hammer.

believe it or not 46Ply, the tube did not tear the front slot hole. Don't ask me how...tis a mystery! It was the original tube...heavy metal. Brent...the guy renting from me was there during this process of removing the tube. He said the same thing you did. We should have video'd it!

For those of you who could appreciate a bit of Hillbilly Mechanic humor...here goes! After working for and hour and a half attempting to remove the distribution water tube from my '50 Chrysler Windsor, I was at a loss as to how to remove it. It simply would not budge. Had a makeshift hook that was inserted into the slot, as instructed in the shop manual, with a vice grips clamped onto it...and was whacking it repeatedly with a hammer. Shot some BP Blaster in around the edges to soften up the corrosion as well but nada. Being the genius that I'm not...I decided it worth a try to make a new hook out of a hay hook. Bent up the end and grinded a tip that fit perfectly into the forward slot of the dist tube. Tied a toe strap to the handle of the hay hook, ran the strap through the front grill (had the radiator removed for easy access) and ....the other end to the front of my Buick. OK...not the brightest idea. But with a tug in reverse from the Mighty Buick, the hay hook handle broke. For those of you familiar with a hay hook...those things are tough! At this point I figured I was never going to remove that tube. Clamped a vice grip to the end of the hay hook where the handle once was, tapped it with a hammer...and SUCCESS! Ha! The pull from the Buick loosened it up to the point where the tube could be removed. Never thought those tubes would be that corroded into the block.

licenseplatesearchapp.com charges $4.95 and you can find the name of the last owner of the vehicle that your plates were issued to.

Hey guys... Went out to start the '50 Windsor today and no go. I had to turn the ignition to "on", push in the starter plunger by hand and then arc the terminals of the solenoid. It popped right off at that point. At this point I am guessing it is the solenoid itself...but being an electo-tard, thought it a good idea to ask some of you who are knowledgeable in the electric stuff. There was a slight click coming from the solenoid when turning the ignition on and off. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! David

My dad has been in the vintage car radio business for over 35 years. If you care to give him a call p.m. me and I'll send you his contact number.

I think you may be correct Joe. I am anxious to get the water pump off and check it...but have been spending my time diagnosing the '50 B2 pickup's issue of not getting spark. Too many projects!

Thats a good one to remember Mark! The information aquired on this forum is priceless. The bang that I experienced today...I believe...was not fuel related. Sounded like a crank snapped or something of that nature. In other words..not an explosion but loud break. Nothing fell off the car. This is a mystery to me as the only issue that Ive found so far is the leaking water pump. The top of the underside of the hood and the firewall was wet with coolant. Like a hose burst.

Geekay.. Thats what I thought at first. A blown radiator hose. But all coolant hoses...including the return and heater hoses...were good. Thanks for the input though.

Thanks for the responses guys... It wasn't a backfire. That I know. But a good thought if it was running rich. Ed...I think I may have taken out 2 smart cars and a geo metro on the drive into Elk River. Hard to say due to the fact that the collision is similar to that of a mosquito hitting the windshield. I do not believe that there was enough coolant loss to cause the pump shaft to break...but that is what I was thinking as well. It only lost about a half gallon when I checked it the first time (away from home). And then again after the drive back home (25 miles) it was about a half gallon low again. I will know when I get the new pump, and uninstall the old one, if it was the shaft. I have not heard a water pump shaft break before...but as loud as that clunky bang was...would be surprised if a water pump shaft could do that. Then again...I thought I was looking at the top of the piston when looking down the spark plug hole! (DUH!!)

Hello again guys... Had an experience today and was wondering if any others have had something similar...and what the issue was. Was driving the 50 Windsor today, 60 mph..slowing for a stop. Heard a big "bang" and thought I blew a head gasket or cracked a head. Pulled into a station where coolant had a slow, steady stream coming from the back of the water pump seal. I pulled the oil dipstick to check for foam, anti freeze, in the oil. It was clean. Pulled all 6 plugs and they were clean and dry. Drove a few more miles and repeated the tests with the same result. Drove back home doing 60 mph, watching the gauges. Oil pressure was normal and the engine did not run any warmer than usual...except for when pulling in the driveway when it went up about 10-15 degrees, which was just due to loosing about a half gallon or so of anti freeze during the drive home. Repeated the tests after a longer drive home with the same results. Clean and dry. So I have to replace the water pump, which was squeaking for about a week now so I knew it was on it's way out. But why the "bang"? It was rather loud and sounded like I blew a piston or something. Somewhat of a mystery to me at this point. Thanks for any thoughts! ~David

Thanks again wayferer.. After tightening the bolts just a titch..they popped and I was able to get them all without braking any. Now the fun begins!

Thanks for the tip. On my way out to give it a try...

Hello again guys... I am poppin' the head on the 50. I wire wheeled around the head bolts to remove the crud and rust and soaked the bolts in PB overnight. Used a propane torch to heat up the first bolt that I am attempting to remove. My question is this...for the many of you who have done this umteen times...how much torque can these bolts handle? I am afraid of bustin one off. Any Tips that might be helpful? Thanks in advance. David

Oh yahh! We're all over 'd place don't ya know...

Thank you all so very much! Very helpful. Perhaps my bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil might do the trick after all. (JK). Young Ed...I am in the cities fairly often. Look for my black Chrysler Windsor, which I've not had to do any work on the engine luckily. Ill keep an eye out for the club coupe. Don. Thank you very much for the photos. Clear as a bell now. I'll learn to navigate this site as to not be such a doorknob in the future. At least the first part of that last sentence is correct...

OK. Now I feel like a total moron. I thought I was seeing the piston through the spark plug hole. So the pistons are moving when I turn the engine over but the valves are not. Excuse me while I hide in the corner in embarrassment...waiting for my manual to arrive...so I can take this dunce cap off...maybe.