likaleica

Thank you - very helpful advice!

Now have the full list of parts I need to find: Referring to the images from the Workshop Manual, on page 91 I am looking for item 1, clutch release fork assembly. (this included the broken part which doesn't appear to be listed separately here) item 17, clutch release fork pivot. page 86 item 18, Transmission drive pinion bearing retainer. (this is the guide tube)

Hello again fellas - once more I'm seeking your help with clutch issues and will be grateful for all advice. The entire clutch assembly is shot so here in the UK I'm having the cover plate rebuilt, a new drive plate and throw-out bearing as it's cheaper than obtaining new parts in the USA. But the clutch release lever has a broken spring that retains the throw out bearing, the knuckle joint bolt needs to be manufactured and the guide tube for the transmission shaft is badly scored and needs to be re-engineered at eye-watering cost (image attached) Does anyone have any of the above or know where I could obtain them please ? Willing to pay sensible prices for good condition items. Many thanks

Update - acting on good advice from you all I've adjusted the rod controlling the throw-out bearing and achieved better clutch action. But it's clear from all the noise and judder that a strip down is needed to identify the faulty parts. While I had the floor out I also adjusted the handbrake as it was not holding too well. It's many years since I've done a clutch on a classic car but I'm assuming I need to support the rear of the engine on a trolley jack and use a second trolley jack under the transmission (gearbox) so I can pull the unit backwards and clear once I've disconnected the prop (drive) shaft. Any sage advice is welcome as always!

Wow what great advice from you all. I have a car show this Sunday so I am hoping to adjust the clutch to get me round the 12 mile trip. It seems clear that a release bearing and driven plate is needed - does anyone know of a stockist who would ship to the UK?

Hi guys - just when I thought everything on my car was sorted (thanks largely to people on this forum!) the clutch has stopped disengaging fully and I am graunching the gears at every change. When I depress the pedal there is also a slightly metallic spinning sound coming from the bell housing. Does this sound like an adjustment issue or that a new clutch is needed? Is it best to take out the floor (again!) to try to adjust the clutch? The workshop manual assumes quite a lot of knowledge of the car so I'd be very grateful for a simple explanation of what adjustments there are and how to do them. Thanks again guys!

After a long delay because of work commitments I tried most of the advice and still the Plymouth would not start. Then I had a conversation with an old time mechanic who told me to remove the air cleaner, fill an aerosol can lid 1/3 full of neat gasoline, pour it down the carb barrel, replace the air cleaner and operate the starter. If it fires but won't run, repeat the process. I was a little skeptical having tried just about everything else with no success. But on the first attempt the engine fired! It ran only 2 seconds so I repeated the process and she ran slightly longer. On the third try the engine revved properly and kept running! What a relief! I immediately took the car out on the road for a 15 minute drive and once warmed up got her to 50 mph. It was a great joy to be behind the wheel of the big Plymouth againwith that fantastic view of her long black hood through the split windscreen.... The moral of the story is don't leave a car laid up over winter without running the engine every so often - especially in damp cold England! Thanks again for all your kind help and advice guys - all the checks were well worthwhile as I now know the ignition system is performing as it should.

Excellent - thanks Jeff. I've been sidelined on this project a couple of days now by a four letter word ending in "K" - no, not what you may be thinking - I'm referring to WORK of course ! Once that's off my back I'll try to get hold of that little gadget

Yes you're dead right about our climate - very good suggestion! Thank you

Thanks Jeff - the spark did look a bit yellow. I'm not much of an auto electrician - any idea what reading I'd expect using a multimeter to check the coil - and also how would I check the condenser?

Hi - yes I am near Sudbury, Have checked all the leads both ends and the HT to the coil. When I removed the plugs to check the spark it did look a bit yellow - but then I am used to the white/blue of a 12 volt spark.......

Like the 8 volt idea - an "old school" mechanic I know also said that - and I'm sure I can get an 8v battery in the UK. The trick with the oiled matchbook between the points is also definitely worth a try ! The car still would not start yesterday - though it did run for about 2 seconds before cutting out. I'd carried out the following suggestions: Cleaned and Vaselined the battery terminals/leads (they are NOT getting hot) Filed the points, cleaned with gasoline, checked the gap Next I will try jumping with my 12v car battery. Am I correct that at the Plymouth end the positive lead should be connected to earth and not to the positive battery terminal ? Or is that only if I am jumping with the donor vehicle engine running ? If sticky piston rings are to blame, I'd appreciate advice on what sort of oil should put down the bores and how I avoid oil fouling the spark plugs when cranking. Thanks again everyone

Lots of good ideas here, thank you fellas - off into the garage to try them one by one!

Thanks guys - I'll try the points cleaning and the oil down the bores....... Do I take it that the yellowish spark from a poor coil is not a likely contender for the culprit?

Belated Happy New Year to everyone! My 39 Plymouth drove into my garage a couple of months back just fine - nothing has been touched since but she now mysteriously refuses to start! All advice gratefully received....... I've checked Distributor cap (brand new) Rotor arm (brand new) Sprayed ignition leads (virtually new Bougiecord) with water repellant spray Cleaned spark plugs Checked for spark at every plug Removed carb float chamber cover and poured in brand new Premium Unleaded (in case the gasoline had got old) I'm not familiar with 6 volt systems but the spark at the plugs looked rather yellow in color and not the white/blue you get with 12 volt coils. Is this normal for my car ? How can I check the coil is delivering enough power ? Any other suggestions why the old girl just won't fire up ?! Thanks guys

Agree with you about the Weber carb's superiority! This is incredibly useful information and I'll check out the Weber option for sure - thanks Sharps40

Thanks to all who replied - plenty of options to explore here! Andyd mentions Bedford and oddly enough I have in storage a Bedford CF (Blitz) camper van with a single barrel Weber carb - might whip that off and see if it fits the Plymouth! When I manage to sort something out I'll post again