perrymedik

Well, the fuel was always flowing. But once I got spark back, the fuel that was flowing would finally ignite.

Well. . . . . . I wonder what I'm doing wrong. I keep mine an a portable garage with a fan running, but not much else I know to do about the humidity.

**UPDATE** It is alive!! After carefully reading all of the posts, recommendations, and supplemental site info (provided by Plymouth Adams), I was able to head out to the car this afternoon and put it all into action. The first thing I did was take the brand new Point File that had been recommended (I try to avoid passing up any "tool buying opportunity") and gave the points a good cleaning, closed everything back up, hooked up the battery and turned the key. Much to my surprise she tried to cough and start right away!! A couple more tries to get the fuel flowing and she started running as smoothly as the day I parked her! After a good warm up period at idle I took her for a drive down to NAPA to pick up some Motor Oil and Cooling fluid as it was time to change them both after the break in period from the rebuild. I want to make sure I don't have any gunk left rattling around in there. I did notice that my Column shifter is very 'tight', or rather there is much more resistance when trying to move it between gears regardless of speed or being stopped. I'm thinking some wet graphite down the column might be in order, but I need to research it first. Thanks to everyone that helped me get her back up and running again! I have set a calendar reminder to start her every 5 days. I'm also going to look at switching over from points to solid state so that I don't run into this particular problem again.

Thank you everyone for the input. I just got back home from a 36 hr shift. I apologize for not getting to the board sooner. I will take the time on Friday to read Plymouth Adams link, and apply everyones suggestions. In the mean time I'll order a Points File. As for the plugs, carb, fuel etc, I didn't look at those yet. I did put an inline bulb between the Plug and Distributor, but it never flashed which is why I started looking into the Distributor. Since I'm not getting any spark at the points I am assuming the problem lies in there somewhere. The Condenser is probably about 5 years old, but has very few hours of running time - so I could consider it new-ish. I'll get into the reading tonight and the practical application on Friday and return with updates. Thanks to all for the help! I'll be back soon! Cory

Hello again to all! After being away from home and the board for a while I am back for the moment. I hope everyone is doing well! My problem: When I try to start the car - it doesn't. The area I am focused on is the Points in the Distributor as they have always given me problems. I tried my usual fix of using sandpaper between the points to get them cleaned up, but this time no luck. With the Distributor Cap off and trying to start the car I see no signs of a spark passing across the points at any point during their opening and closing cycles. When I follow my voltage through the system I have the following readings, with the ignition on: With the Points Closed: From + Coil terminal to Breaker Point (Stationary) = 6.24V From + Coil terminal to Breaker Point (the one that moves) = 000.1mV From Breaker Point to Breaker Point (using the metal, not the points themselves) in the open and closed positions = 6.24V My thought process is that the Point to Point reading is erroneous because I am bridging the material of the points that contact one another and providing a path for the voltage to flow through the meter. It is my assumption that with the points closed I should get the same 6.24V when one meter lead is attached to the + Coil terminal regardless of which side of the Points I am on when they are closed. I do know that if i'm not careful with my meter leads I create a quick spark if I brush against something inside the Distributor that is grounded - so current is definitely inside the housing. Again, the car was running fine before I let it sit for 6 months due to my absence, and I think the problem is the points. No spark equals in the distributor would explain why there is no start at the plugs in my mind. But again - it's been 6 months and even though you all helped me rebuild the engine and get it out on the road, I'm sure there is something i've forgotten. I have made no alterations or adjustments to anything. I have a new set of Points on standby but wanted to get feedback before I changed them out and make problems for myself that weren't there before. I have taken some pictures as best as I could of the points so that you could have visual of what is going on. When I compare the new points to the ones that are currently in place I think that they may be oxidized - but they could look normal to everyone else here that knows what a set of points that have been used look like. Thanks in advance!! Cory P.S. Plymouth Adams - I did consult the Service Manual before posting! haha! <a href="http://s245.photobucket.com/user/perrymedik/media/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/11BDFFC5-4770-4A0C-B74E-361DFF2A3E8C.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg48/perrymedik/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/11BDFFC5-4770-4A0C-B74E-361DFF2A3E8C.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 11BDFFC5-4770-4A0C-B74E-361DFF2A3E8C.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://s245.photobucket.com/user/perrymedik/media/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/8E6AB7E8-18E9-4556-A627-5299D9BC6ABA.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg48/perrymedik/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/8E6AB7E8-18E9-4556-A627-5299D9BC6ABA.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 8E6AB7E8-18E9-4556-A627-5299D9BC6ABA.jpg"/></a>

Plymouthcranbrook: Thanks for the heads up! I am happy to report that the re-build went well. Ran the car for a while and the heat seemed to work well. Will know better when I take it for a spin when the weather clears. In other news my drill bits arrived for the Helicoils that I will use for the rear lugs! More to follow I'm sure!! Cory

Hey all! I received my Heater Repair Kit today from Arizona Parts. Wanted to post the instructions that came with it in hopes that it may be useful to someone down the road. Let me know if you can't open the attachment and I'll try again. I'll let you know how the install goes. Everything has already been broken down to Parade Rest in preparation. Thanks! Cory Ranco Automotive Thermostatically Controlled Heater Control Valve Repair Proceedure (HTR-100).pdf

Shel_ny: Thanks for the feedback on the company reputation. I'll go ahead and complete removal from the car and disassembly prep work for the new part to arrive.

Found a rebuild kit at this site (http://arizonaparts.com/index.html). I don't know if anyone has used Arizona Parts before, but they seem to have a decent selection of NOS MoPar items and for what I needed, they were way less expensive then anything else I was able to find on-line. $15 for the rebuild kit and $5 for shipping. The only down side is that they do not accept credit cards. They do accept PayPal, Money Order, and personal checks (2 week wait for check to clear). But since I have PayPal it was all good. I'll let you know how it turns out! Cory

Niel Hoback: Thank you for the advice! I am in the process of looking for a replacement or rebuild kit for this Thermostatic Water Control Valve. Struck out at NAPA. If anyone has and knowledge of where to get it (not www.oldsobsolete.com, they want $225) to shorten my search and stretch my dollar, I wouldn't complain! Thanks!

And I have a leak . . . . but I'm sure everyone does. This one is coming from inside the cabin under the dash on the passenger side at the firewall where the Heat Control valve is. It just started the other day. I can make it not as bad by turning the temp all the way up, which pushes the plunger all the way forward. From what I can see, the seal from the plunger has finally disintegrated and will need replaced. I began to take it off and got every thing disconnected except for what I believe the manual is referring to as the capillary tube, but to be honest it looks like just a piece of coper wire about the thickness of a good coat hanger, maybe a little thicker. I also think it is a wire and not a tube. The problem is that I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect it, and I don't want to break it. My Service Manual is again vague and refers to detailed instructions that are furnished with each heater package. I don't have that. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to get this loose without damage so that I can remove the unit and work on trying to fix it? I've googled and searched the site with no luck addressing my problem. Below are some pictures of what I've got and where that tube/wire goes.

Talk about things not going to plan. . . . . I tried to install the second fuel filter, but the clips that were supposed to secure the flex hose to the hard line didn't have enough "umph" to them and when I would start the motor fuel would begin to spray every direction!! Gave me a freaking heart attack. I could envision the engine compartment turning in the a ball of flames, and then my garage shortly there after. Will be stopping by NAPA tomorrow for some proper clamps. But while I had the fuel line out I took the opportunity to take off the access panel of the heater, clean it out, paint it, and reinstall the vent after drilling and tapping a new hole for the bottom shaft screw. Then while that was drying I pulled the heater core out and spruced up the other side and cleaned out the rust and lubricated the turning mechinism and then reassembled. I sprayed so of that Fluid Film on some rust spots inside the box as a preservation measure. Probably a good idea, but Fluid Film apparently has a unique odor. I hope that it goes away when it dries. As for the other items on my to-do list for the day . . . . . Nada. Didn't even make it to them. The best laid plans and all. LOL! Don: I'm with you, I'm driving the car for the pure joy of it, not to be my economy car. But I was hoping that the MPG would give me an indicator as to whether I was imagining the mix being too rich or not. Oh well. The car runs fine. The plugs look fine. I think I'll just sit on the issue for a bit and see if anything develops. TodFitch: I don't know what rear end I have in my P18. I know on most cars there is usually some kind of marking on the pumpkin, and to be honest, I've just never taken the time to look. But it would be a good piece of info to have. Don: As for tapping the Zerk Fitting. The Zerk fittings I bough were straight shaft. Would those be inappropriate to use? Though I do recall seeing the kind that you can hammer in at NAPA today. Once I get it out maybe I can find the same size and just pound in a new one. That would probably be the easier/better solution. But now I am tired and it is time for some relaxation! Motor well everyone! Cory

Shel_ny and Don Coatney: Thanks for that info!! Now I can rest easy that I've not lost my marbles! To update my data: I filled up with gas this morning and plugged the info into my App, and it says I am getting 10.70 MPG. I was unable to find any info in my Service Manual or my Owners Manual "Good Going in you new Plymouth" on what the expected MPG should be. If this is low I would point out that this might be low due to allowing it to High Idle in the mornings for 15-20 min, but this may have no bearing on the situation. My plan for today is to: 1. Install a second inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb as was recommended previously. 2. Remove the rear nut on the Driver side lower control arm, remove the broken Zerk fitting and install a new one after tapping the hole. 3. Place some sealant on the forward valve cover to stop the leak even though new seals were installed, it still leaks. 4. Try to adjust the Hood forward because it catches ever so slightly at the point in the rear of the hood which has caused the paint to chip and rust to settle in. If I can accomplish all of that then I may try to find the correct drill bit and put the Helicoils in the Rear Passenger wheel so that it doesn't fall off. I also need to disassemble the heater and install the other louver that was rusted and the screw broke off. So drill, and tap for a new one and install. And a valuable lesson learned: If it comes off, it gets painted before it goes back in!!!! Any thoughts on my MPG and the rich smell of my exhaust are welcome. I know that I've been warned not to compare to modern vehicles with catalytic converters and I have that well in mind. So, if my MPGs are good, and the engine is running well (it is), then I will just have to take it for what it is and quite thinking I have a problem! Thanks again!! I'm running out of things to fix!! Next will be the Radio and considerations for paint and body work. But that will be a different thread in a different part of the forum. You guy's are awesome! Cory

Now I know for a fact that I posted in the month of January, no more then a week and a half ago about my Carb and the engine running too rich. I also know that I got some good feed back (Don Coatney I specifically remember) about the high idle cam, someone else recommended pulling the main metering jet to get the numbers to make sure it was the right one, but now I can’t find anything in the post time line. Was there a data loss or something or did I dream it up? I recall Don asking me if the high idle cam was dropping out. He even posed a picture (I know I’m not crazy!!) So I had my wife take a video while I started the car and then once it was running in high idle I took some measurements. At high idle and engine at temp my Tach is at 1000 RPM. Once I hit the accelerator the cam does drop and the RPMs drop to between 500-550. For some reason I can't imbed the video from photo bucket, but here is the direct link of the High Idle Lobe dropping out: http://vid245.photobucket.com/albums/gg48/perrymedik/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/F8FA6999-BCF0-442A-855C-BA42639EA26F.mp4 And this is of the Tach at low idle: http://vid245.photobucket.com/albums/gg48/perrymedik/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/40A32589-32FF-4E61-83C0-9CE1BC15F1F4.mp4 I'll have the video posted on YouTube once it is uploaded. I pulled the Main metering jet and along the top of the jet it has the numbers 22411- (nothing after the dash) and along the bottom it has the number 256. No picture as it was difficult to read and I need a magnifying glass and flashlight to clearly discern all of the inscriptions. The service manual calls for something close. If you look in the far left column for the main metering jet it mentions “-1 Size Lean” but I don’t know what that refers to. I would love to be enlightened on that. I then proceeded to put everything back together and flooded out the carb. I think I put the Float and its clip back in incorrectly so that the clip was binding with the float and not letting it raise so fuel was coming out of the opening in the bottom of the carb where the accelerator pump rod comes out and connects to the Accelerating Pump Lever. Any way got that fixed, let it air out, and just started the car with no problems and no leaks. So to recap: 1. The High Idle Cam does drop out. 2. I now know what the number on the Main Metering Jet is, but still not sure if its correct. 3. There are two jets listed for that carb and model car, but I don’t know what the difference is between the two. 4. It is still running very rich smelling – despite the plugs looking like they should If the weather is good tomorrow I’ll take it to work and get some gas on the way home and I should be able to give you an idea on the MPG (that was another question someone asked). Any input would be appreciated!! Cory

Ok. Shortened up the Selector Rod a little bit and give it a shot with the engine off, the feel of it made me to think to shorten it a little more. Retested (engine still not running) and felt good through all gears. Started the engine an was still able to smoothly engage Reverse and 1-3. Backed it off the ramps and down the drive way. Stopping and going back to neutral then 1st then back to Reverse. Still good. Took it for a drive around the block hitting all 3 forward gears and was smooth. Drove past the drive way, and back up a few more times. Feels like problem solved. Put it back up on the ramps to address some transmission fluid leaks. Thanks for the guidance Jim Yergin!

So according to the Manual it says that hard shifting into low or reverse my result if the selector rod is adjusted too long. I don't have any problems shifting into first (or low), but reverse is completely blocked. It also mentions that failure to shift into low or reverse,without re-engaging the clutch is generally related to "gear butting". I can't get it into reverse no matter how many times i engage or disengage the clutch. It seems like neither is a perfect fit for my particular problem. Of note: While I was getting the defective muffler replaced yesterday they let me under the car to do the lubrication maintenance on all of the Zerk fittings. One of the fittings that was serviced was the Clutch Torque Shaft and the Gear Shaft Bell Crank. The car backed off of the ramp fine and the problem didn't exhibit itself until this morning when I was going to take the car out. Would the service of those areas with fresh grease play any roll in this problem? I have no problems shifting from Neutral all the way up to 3rd and back down again. With the exception of the before mentioned grind into 1st from neutral if I depress the clutch and try to go into 1st right away, which was explained to me was because 1st doesn't have a syncro and needs a moment to stop spinning. I'll give the selector rod an adjustment and see what that does, but look forward to your thoughts! Thanks! Cory

PROBLEM! Drove the car to work this morning. Let it warm up in the garage for 10-15 min, hopped in and I couldn't get into Reverse. No grinding, and not like it goes in and won't engage. I just can't get the shifter to go up into the slot - like it's blocked. Pushed out of the drive way and drove to work thinking that maybe it just needed to be spun and warmed up. Got to work (15 min drive of 6-ish miles) and tired to back into a parking spot. Same thing. So now I am here at work and I don't have my Svc Manual here. Any suggestions as to what to look at first when I get home and up on ramps?

Shel_ny: Thanks for the info. I'll look into getting one of those. UPDATE: Looked into the steering issue today and ran through the steps in the Service Manual. It would seem that when I took the front driver side wheel off to lube the bearings, that when I re-installed the castle nut on the axle I was too cautious on how tight I put it on. The Manual said to check the wheel by pulling in and out on it. The passenger side didn't move, but the driver side did. Not excessively, but enough to warrant tightening the nut a bit further. With that done I took the car on a roll around the neighborhood and everything felt fine, but the problem wasn't that noticeable before until I got around the 40-45 MPH range. So I found a spot where I could do that and it felt significantly better. Then I took it to the Hwy and got up to 55-60 and the steering felt solid. Problem solved!! This does bring me to my next question though. What is a reasonable speed for this car? It is only a 3 speed and doesn't have overdrive. The Speedo goes up to 100 (LOL!) but I don't anticipate ever coming close to that. I don't want to blow out my transmission or cause damage to the engine by having the RPMs too high. I don't know what my RPMs are as there is no tach, but you could hear it running!! It sounds fine, and the distance at the 55-60 MPH range was less then 2 miles, but still I'd like to know what the safe range would be. I know people drove these cars cross country back in the day, but I don't think the speed limits were as high as they are today. Any input would be appreciated!! Put 34 miles on it today both City and Hwy so as for now I will assume that the fuel tank issue is taken care of. Gonna take a look at some other minor issues today (dim bulb in the Fuel Gage ring, radio, horn wire, check transmission fluid level, etc). I may even get around to doing the Frame Lube Service as described in my manual as well, time and motivation permitting. It's all coming together. Pretty soon you may hear me begin to muse about Paint and Upholstery work! Last major issue is that I want to replace the passenger rear Hub/Drum assembly since the rivets were drilled out, and two of the lug nuts (side by side to make it worse) were stripped and my attempt to tap and die them resulted in nice clean threads that are now a bit loose and have that feel of "If you tighten me any further I will strip out." I would really rather not loose a wheel at speed. More to follow! The journey continues! Cory

Oh, there were many used.

Young Ed: Yes. And it is very loud. And now I feel kind of dumb - but more informed! LOL! Thanks guys!

So the plan for tomorrow is the take a look at the steering system and determine if tightening up the play in the steering will be an easy fix, or a costly and time intensive one. I have read the entire section in the Service Manual and feel ready to give it a go. But before I start I was wondering if anyone can tell me what this wire is that goes into the bottom of the steering box. I can't find anything about it in the Steering section, and it doesn't show up in my wiring diagram either. It's more of a curiosity question, as I doubt it has anything to do with the play in the wheel, and it doesn't seem to be causing any problems that I am aware of. Before anyone asks, no, I don't have power steering, turn signals, or a back up light. And yes, the insulation is cracked and I will address that. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow! I know there's a test drive in the works at some point. Oh, and if I do get the test drive in, I'll have broken the 100 mile mark! WOO HOO! Thanks! Cory

Plymouth Adams: Wish I had a welder and knew how to use it! It's one of those skills I'd really like to learn. Shel_ny: The in-line filter I have now is glass. I had read somewhere on here (Tech Tips page I think) that advised against the plastic ones. The one in your picture looked pretty small, and without a sight glass how would you know if it was clogged, other then taking it apart?

Greg g: I tried with he pair of needle nose vice grips but just couldn't get them up there in that space quite well enough to hold. However I love your idea of using the heat gun to wick the penetrating fluid upwards! I am going to use that down the road for sure!! Thanks for that!!

Shel_ny: I could see what you were talking about, I just didn't have enough clearance to get up to that and secure it from underneath so that I could remove the nut from the top. I can certainly give the Carb an eyeball. Though I did put in an inline filter after clogging my accelerator pump jet right off the bat. I also like Don Coatney's idea of installing a second in line filter between the fuel pump and the carb. But today is going to be a rainy day and my wife is gone all day for Duty, so its the me and the little man (7 month old) show today. Maybe the sun will smile on me tomorrow and I can take it out again and see what it does. I need to put seat belts in it so that my wife can ride along with me and the baby can be securely strapped in the back seat. I've put almost 100 miles on the car so far and she hasn't been in it for a single one of them.