Mike

you could try here http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-weatherstripping-plymouth-1940-1950.aspx

Valve and plug

Thats the first part that slides back in before the valve on the diagram, I just rebuilt my plymouth had same issue till I fished the old one out with a screw driver and matched it up

http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=28 lazy mans way http://webrodder.com/article/power-brakes-pedal-booster-master-1942-52-dodge-mopar-51 this site as a write up on the screen look at that artical window with the words mopar power brakes

that maybe where i saw someone do it or try to make a 7" brake booster work with theirs I want to say I read that theyd have to make an adapter bracket but i cant remember if that was to mount the booster and master or if it was to mate the booster and master. If you go the ford or gm booster and master dont forget to see if the brake lines to it are flared or bubbled and make sure the plymouth has the correct one or you might have to buy an adapter to switch to flared or bubbled. Im in pinellas county, in Seminole

Couldn't you just change the Master cylinder to a 50's era ford master with the booster. Like this setup http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTM4WDEyODE=/$(KGrHqR,!o!FBb00cQ+-BQhww4r+D!~~60_57.JPG I though I saw a website a month ago that had a Ford brake booster adapted to the plymouth master cylinder, Ill try to look again for it.

Nice, I got mine through EZwiring, its a standard 12 circuit. From all that I've read its comparable to the painless and that if you downloaded the painless 12 circuit instructions its better than the supplied EZwiring instructions.

Most is stock, still has stock drums all around It has the 6l and 3 on the tree, there is an overdrive handle but I have yet to crawl under it and really look other than checking the frame and seeing if I was lucky enough that they did disc conversion but they didn't. I'm ordering the parts to rebuild the master cylinder today due to no brakes when you hit the peddle, I figured Id start there then work my way to the wheel cylinders. I can take some more pictures for the hell of it if people are interested in seeing anything like dash setup or engine bay. I already bought the parts and service manual from amazon. that's one of the first things I did to get familiar with it. The wiring is a mix of original and new, The wires for the starter and starter relay have the protective shield is pealing off. Dont want that crap to arch into a fireball. Okay from the replies and websites it looks like the seat is aftermarket.

I just got the car a month ago and ive been trying to learn as much about them as possible. Its already part 12v its gpt battery and alt for 12 v and I think most of the lights have been switch to 12v as well. I was wondering if indeed they had power seats might be easy to tell if its 12v or 6v motor. Mine has a power seat in it. Thats why I asked

Sorry to ask this,I tried to search for this first. I am about to rewire the 48 to full 12v. I'm curious if a power driver seat is common in these cars. I also searched the net couldn't really find info on it.

Thanks everyone

Thanks robert ill squeeze under it soon and take a look at it.I just got the cars from my grandfather it been restored once already so I have no clue what all it has on it as for electrical.

Well I just bought a new 12v battery 600 CCA and I went to try to start it and it cranks slowly (almost like a dead battery) and then there is a little smoke near the starter solenoid and wires are warm to hot to the touch.

it was changed from 6 volt to a 12 volt alternator. I think I just found a site though Kanter.com. looks like they have starters

Does anyone have info on the 1948 starter. I think mine might be a little warn and either need replacement parts like brush, armature, and such. I'm kind of looking for a repair kit or replacement but I'm not finding anything from parts places on line. its a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2 door coupe if that makes a difference with original motor partly converted to 12v. I plan on rewirning the system to all 12 volt minus the reducers needed for the gauges. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you