eddie27

The manual calls for SAE 160 for the transmission and hypoid 110 powerful EP for the rear end...... What I was asking was what are modern equivalents? Further I was asking if anyone that uses similar oils noticed any differences in the oil brands and or weights they have used.

edit

Could you all give me some suggestions on the engine and gear oil (transmission and rear axle) I should use in a 37 Plymouth. My dad is going to drive her from Ohio to Florida and I want to change all the fluids before he leaves.

Phone numbers are pretty easy to fake nowadays. . . With an appropriately compliant Voice Over IP (VoIP) provider you can set any caller ID you want on a call.

 

Not sure how many old car parts scammers are up on that, but I certainly get more than a few calls per month where the caller ID number seems to have been faked.

I wonder if he is just a car parts scammer.... He might get on all kinds of forums and say... I have what you are looking for.... Send me $150 and I will ship it to you.

He asked for your phone number. Did you ask for his?

No I didn't. I should have let him call me. Phone number might have been easier to trace than an email.

Just emailed him again....

Richard,

Still waiting on your reply. I can be in your area around noon. Come on Richard (or should I call you Dick?)… I don’t have all day.

Chris

My reply to him... I'll bet he turns this down quickly

NICE!!!! Just had a thought. Belle Vernon isn’t too far from here. I can just drive over and pick it up tomorrow and pay with cash. What is your address?

Chris

Ha..... This is the photo he sent me. Looks like NOS for a 37 Plymouth, don't you think?

This IP tracking link was posted here a while back. I have never tried it but if you have his e-mail address you might be able to find him.

 

http://www.ip-tracker.org/

The email address is richardautoshop34@gmail.com

Don't know a tracker that works with gmail, hotmail, yahoo etc email addresses.

His town is just down the road from me, if in fact he is actually there.

Thanks for your posting.

I doubt he is there.... Might not even be in the country. From what i understand these people make their living by going to all kinds of forums like this one and find want ads and reply to them. If they can get one person a day to send them $100- $200, it turns into a pretty profitable scam. Wish there was a way to track the emails and have them arrested.

As always caveat emptor...  That said the internet can help sniff out these guys. A quick google search shows no such business in Belle Vernon and no phone number for Richard Auto Shop. 

Although I knew he was a fake as soon as I saw the words Western Union... I did try to look up the business but also found nothing. From Robin's post it seems he is using different names and probably emails. I only posted this because I don't want to see this loser get one cent from anyone here.

I wasn't sure where to post this. I just wanted to make sure it was seen by all. Mods feel free to move this anywhere you want.

I recently posted a want ad for flywheel / clutch cover in the classified section here. On Monday I got a reply from a Richard Claycomb as follows:

Please let me know if you are still in need of the above and I'll get back to you. What's your phone # ?

Many thanks,

Richard Claycomb
Richard Auto Shop,
Belle Vernon, PA 15012
USA.

I replied back saying I was interested and to email me the specifics and yesterday I got this:

Hi Chris,

 Thanks for writing, I have a 37 P4 flywheel / clutch cover for sale in excellent condition and shape. I am asking a $150 shipped. Asking price includes shipping via UPS or FedEx which ever you prefer, and l'll accept payment via Western union or Moneygram. What's your complete shipping address ?

Thanks,

Richard

I asked for a photo and today I got another reply....

I do not have a photo of the cover but not to worry on condition as is excellent. Let me know and get back to me with your complete shipping address .

Thanks,

Richard

For those who don't know, Western Union and Moneygram are untraceable and usually when you use them you end up losing your money. Please be careful when sending money to anyone using these services. I am sure if he sees this he will use a different name and email, but he will always ask money to be sent Western Union and/or Moneygram. I just would hate to see anyone on here get their hard earned money stolen by whoever this SCUMBAG is.

fixed....

OK guys... I found the source of my noise. Attached is photo of the bolts that are loose. Problem is I think there are nuts on the other side of these bolts because they won't tighten. Any way to get in there without dropping the tranny, clutch, etc?

Been following the knock thread started by Joe Flanagan hoping to get an answer to my own knock issue that just started a few weeks ago. The difference in my knock is it get dramatically better (but not completely gone) when I hold the clutch in. It sounds more like something is loose than an actual knock. The thing about noise is that it is very pronounced when the car is first started and if I let it stall out (before it is warmed up) the last few turns of the motor before stopping it get very "clunky." If rev the engine up it seems to go away.

Just wanted to give a quick THANK YOU to Rich Hartung (Desoto1939) He loaned me his Ammco 1750 (for nothing more than the price to ship it to me) and that did the trick. Happy to report that the brakes are high and tight.

As I said in my original post... I have 1/4 inch freeplay in the pedal. When I bought the car I was told that the brakes had just been redone. Whoever did them had the pedal way out of adjustment. I have that taken care of. Thank you for all of your replies so far. I really do appreciate the help. I am going to try to do a major adjustment this weekend and see where that leaves me. The thing I think that puzzles me is that if I adjust the pedal to where the piston blocks the relief port the volume of brake fluid in the master cylinder is plenty to give me good pedal. But if i adjust it back to where it does not block the port, it goes to the floor. that is why I don't think adjusting the linings will make much of a difference. But I have tried everything else I can think of.

This is a tool that can be mailed. I am not traveling and hand delivering it to your home.

 

Contact me directly about the use of the tool.

rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

I was kidding....

Hvae you used either the Ammco brake tool or the miller brake tools to set the arch of the shoes to the drum. It sounds as if you have not done the major brake adjustment or if you did it is not correct.

I have the Ammco Brake tool.

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Can you bring it with you????

Is the travel too much but there are still brakes, or do you have absolutely no pedal? Where did you measure the free play from, the pedal or the rod itself?

Might be worth experimenting with the rod and try adjusting it out in small increments. See if any pedal comes back.

Yes... I can just see the LF wheel cyclinder start to move as the pedal is nearly to the floor. (With the drum off) The only way I get good pedal is if I adjust the rod past the relief port. Then the brakes are great. But with that port blocked they lock up after a few miles. The fact they lock up tells me things (master cylinder and wheel cylinders) are sealed and working properly or at least no fluid is passing the seals.

Wheel cylinders are looking good.... not sure what the next step would be. I mean... this system is not that complicated. So why am I losing my hair.

I had a similar issue when rebuilding the brakes on my 41 Coupe...When I disassembled the master cylinder I found it was pitted pretty badly, so wound up replacing it with a rebuilt unit.   You can have the original re-sleeved too, but it was about the same price for a rebuilt one, and I was able to get it more quickly since I was pressed for time.  Not a bad idea to pull apart the wheel cylinders and check and possibly rebuild them too since the system will be apart. 

I had the master cylinder out yesterday and apart to make sure everything was there and put together right. It looked good. No pitting or scoring at all. Cups all looked good. I am going to take all the wheel cylinders apart today to see what condition they are in.

Working on a 37 Plymouth coupe. The brakes worked fine but when driving it the pedal would get higher and higher until the brakes would just lock up. After some research and reading I found the brake pedal needed adjustment to let the piston in the master cylinder come back past the relief port. I did that and got the 1/4 inch free play before the rod contacts the piston. My problem is that now the pedal goes to the floor. I have bled to brakes and am positive there is no air in the system. There are no leaks in the system. I have also adjusted the brakes with the cam bolts until the wheel locks up and then backed them off just until the wheel frees up. Now, short of replacing the master cylinder I am at a loss. Any ideas? Thanks

EDIT>>>>> Just verified... If I adjust the pedal (tightening it up) I get good pedal, but not until after the piston blocks the relief port. Then I am back to the same problem of the brakes locking up after driving a while.