Timothy_S

Manuel, Thank you for responding! It was my understanding that if you are a registered member that you can email sellers on the site, and that would be enough for me to start a dialogue. Are you or someone else on the forum a member?

Gents, I don't post much, but do a lot of lurking and get a lot of mileage from this site. I've got a '39 Dodge D11, and have been on the prowl for proper window handles and escutcheons. Well there is a gent on Trade Me NZ that apparently has what I need, but as only people living in NZ or Australia can register, I cannot bid or even contact him to see if he will sell to the US. If anyone on this list happens to be a member of Trade Me NZ, please contact me. I dont want you to buy them for me, just procure the contact info and I can take it from there. Many Thanks in advance! -Tim

That is a great shot. I was very happy to finally get my Dodge out to an event... and this one ended up being a great car show, by sheer chance. A CHP officer stopped us on the way; questioned me about my YOM plates, and basically just wanted to what 3 wwii uniformed Marines were doing in a 39 dodge in san pedro.

I have actually had this same thing happen recently. Working like a top, and then while decelerating, engage the clutch and the engine revs high and only stops when I shift into neutral... there is also some clutch chattering while this happens. I've got a plain '50 plymouth L6 and standard 3-speed in my '39 Dodge. It happened twice on a drive 3 weeks ago, and once just yesterday... no real obvious cuase or similarity between occurences.

Norm, Used belt dressing and the sound got very quiet, but after a minute or two of running slowly got noisy and came back to its full volume. Can I deduct from this that a replacement belt would fix the sound? The belt in question is probably at least 10 yrs old, but probably only has about 2k miles on it and is in good shape.

I traded several emails with someone from First Class Parts (the guys selling on ebay.) They don't have any ply or dodge patters for 39's (I'm not shocked), but if I send them a pattern they can make me a rubber one.. so I'm in business. Does anyone know if the mat pattern RobertKB posted above is the same pattern that would have been in my '39? I honestly dont care too much about an exact pattern match, but if I have the chance, I'll take it. Does anyone know if the mat should have a cutout for my spare tire? in the '39 there is no floor cutout, it just sits broad and upright at the back rear of the trunk. Also, would the trunk mat flow onto the step down area at the trunk opening? Its not very big and is probably where the jack and other trunk equip were stored. 47Heaven... I also saw the warning on their auctions about not contacting them... but that was in regards to parts for sale on ebay... since they did not list 39 Dodge anywhere on their auctions, or their separate list of available parts, I figured it didn't apply, and I was right... they didnt give me any problems. They are just complaining about people letting auctions end with no bids, so they can contact them afterward and try and haggle the price to get a better deal.

I'm getting a loud warbling noise from either the water pump pulley or the generator... or that corner of my engine bay. I hit the genny with 3 in 1 oil in both cups, and the water pump with real water pump grease; but got no change. Are the bearings too far gone to have lube fix it, or is this the fan belt, or just a pulley, or what? It makes me nervous. I want to lube something and make it go away! Car was last given serious TLC in the early 80's and has been sitting garaged for about 5 yrs.

Sweet! Thanks...sized would be fantastic... I'll contact them.

Finishing up work on the trunk area of my '39 Dodge and I need a trunk mat! It came with a 70's era vinyl plaid mat that was cracked and all-around shot to hell. What was the stock trunk mat? Rubber or some kind of wool material? Does anyone sell sizeable rubber matting? I can only find repro 60s'-70's trunk mats online. I dont expect anyone to be selling exact 39 dodge cutouts, but if there is something I can get and cut myself that would be something. Thoughts?

Well I'm about to go pickup a spare front clip for my car that Old Stovebolt has sitting around. At worst, I'm going to transplant the wheel cylinders and brake componants, but I'd like to just swap out the complete wheel assemblies. The front end he has had a recent brake job, so that should fix my brakes nicely. I don't have any permanent storage space, so I'm going to take as many usable componants off as possible (tie rod ends, steering arms, etc), and the rest goes to the junk yard. I was working in the trunk the other day and realized that there are no wires hooked up to the gas tank float... no wires in sight! So now I need to find the wires, and then test the installed float, as well as the spare float that came with the car. I have a feeling that the wires are disconnected becuase the installed float wasnt working right... it seems the last owner had a habit of just disconnecting things when they stopped working right.... the speedo, the heat riser, the gas float, and the door check rod, to name a few Thermostat housing: Not as big a deal, both the current one, and the one I will be replacing it with have the same external heater bypass... the only difference is one is a straight neck to the rad, and the replacement is a goose neck. I may have to replace the heater bypass fitting gasket, but I shouldnt have to touch the water pump. This holiday is car central at my place.

Matt, I must have been smoking crack the other night; its actually a Stromberg BXVD-3. Similar to the one posted by Reg Evans in this thread: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=52171&mode=linear#post52171

Well I replaced the rusted plug with one of the "temporary" rubber expansion plugs... drove it all the way to AAA and back with no leaks and no problems, though I definitely need to bleed the brakes. There was a good 2 inches of firm, wet mud behind the plug. It cleaned out real easy, and feeling around all cavities with my finger, that area of the block felt free of blockages. But I'm sure that same mud is hiding behind all of my other plugs, and in the dist tube. Now that I've got the car registered, I can drive it somewhere that I can flush the block with a hose. I've already got a replacement water tube, but dissasembling part of the car to get at it will have to wait a few months. The upshot is she has never gotten remotely close to overheating, and ran no hotter than 160 on the 10 mi round-trip to AAA. As soon as I can get my hands on a proper 1939 gooseneck thermostat housing I'm going to change out the thermostat as well. This weekend I'm going to try and replace the fluid in the tranny and rear end, bleed the brakes, and lube all the grease fittings.

I have a replacement set that I got from Burnbaum. Your right Don, I hadnt thought of that... I assumed that since the upper plugs were brass that the lower one was also, but its covered in so much crud that its hard to tell, and is obviously non-brass, cuz that sucker is shot. Its a sickening feeling when metal gets squishy.

Well its shaping up to be a project weekend then. There is a valve by the freeze plug, but it has no spiggot, so I suppose it drains directly out the center of the valve? Heh. If you look in the pic that I attached in the original post you can see the offending freeze plug, and the discoloration from years of leakage just right of the filler tube. I'll have to give it a whack on saturday. The biggest problem I have is that I need to get the VIN verified before I can get a new title, and register the thing... and after 3 months of loan and shipping problems, the loan company is breathing down my neck to provide a title. But I need to get the thing on the road to get the VIN done... CHP won't come by the house, and local PD doesnt know what the hell it is doing. The brakes need work also, but are usable for short trips... the right front break grabs while stopping, so a wheel cylinder may be out. Well I wont be able to do anything until the weekend, but I have a feeling that this thread will get longer before too long! Thanks guys.

Holy Crap. Well I was poking around a (super slow) leaking freeze plug just now (prepping for the trip to AAA tomorrow to get the VIN verified and register the car) when I realized that my "oozing" plug is actually rusted through! There was a paint bubble dead center in the plug that turned out to be butter soft, with moisture behind it. I didnt poke my finger through, but it looks like I could if I wanted to. This is a brass plug... rusted through. I was hoping to just goo the leak for the trip, but there is no way I can make the drive now. How the hell does one drain the block without making a mess? I can drain the radiator all right, but where is the block drain? I park in a huge condo garage, so I can't spill any liquids. Upshot is its a pretty excessible plug, but its still behind the oil breather tube, which will mean whacking the new plug in place difficult. Of course this doesnt bode well for what else may be awaiting me in there, either. All the other (visible) plugs are solid. I got no idea what the covered ones look like.