norville

Hello all, I'm not sure where to ask this but I'd rather sell this here rather than an auction site but I'm trying to get a good feel for where to start. never mind sold. I have an R-7 overdrive tranny that came from a running plymouth car. It all seems to be in good shape. It's missing the OD cable and the brake strap. Although the PO gave me two cables but I do not know if they are for the tranny?? The tranny came with the rebuilt block dual carbs, stovebolt headers,and an edelbrock cast head. I originally planed to swap the whole drivetrane into my 51 business coupe but, my current motor is matching to the car and in good shape. So I'm pulling the "go" parts, and I really don;t want to move the crossmember to fit the OD tran to my fluid tranny. I'm just going to get a 3.55 rear-end. I'm in the north east. Any idea on what this OD tranny would go for? Also, I offered my rebuilt block to my buddy, but I'm not sure what to ask for that either.... I was thinking $200-500 it's in great shape. After I pulled it apart I was regretting selling it. The cylinders still have the crosshatching visible. thanks for any input. bob

I just went to speedway motors and ordered 2 smithy's mufflers,, I got the 30's I wanted quiet...

http://stores.ebay.com/Klasskollection-Exhaust-Systems?_rdc=1 I just got mine here off ebay. Although, I bought it without mufflers and with "loose" manifold flanges. Also I told them I wanted it for dual exhaust and the angled the second set of pipes for me. I didn't hook it up yet but they look great.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2827934972.html I saw this ad on another forum I belong to. It may be to late, going to get crushed. Living in the north east , I just can't imagine crushing this truck. I'd say as is would still bring good cash. I have no cat in this game. If nobody contacts me by THIS FRIDAY MORNING, I WILL RENT A TRAILER AND TOW THIS TRUCK TO THE SCRAP YARD TO BE MELTED DOWN. Up for sale is one of my projects. I am moving and have one too many so she has to go. This is a project and will need quite a bit of work to complete but it is a very good starting point. It will need to be towed. The truck is a 1950 B200 5-window cab I have chopped the top 4 inches. The rear three windows in these cabs are smaller and posted up higher on the rear of the cab when stock. The 4 inch chop drops the rear three windows to where they will line up with the door windows. The chop is about 85% complete, there is a bit of hammer and dolly work that will need to be finished and some bondo work. Also the doors will need to be completed. I have the two stock doors, as well as two very clean donar doors. I've also got an extra hood and an extra stock flat head 6 motor. The truck is a project, but should be somewhat easy to complete from here. I don't know if the engines will run but they are both clean and turnover. I was told the extra motor ran when it was pulled from the donar. I NEED it gone by the end of Feb, come with cash and tow it away $500 Pink slip in hand, Truck is located in Rodeo

http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/BrakeLineKit.htm INSTALLATION NOTES: • On Disc front, Drum rear combinations with a single master cylinder, be sure to remove the residual check valve, or purchase a master cylinder without a check valve. You must then install an in-line residual check valve in the line to the rear drum brakes. The valve should be installed on the brake side of the proportioning valve as shown in the diagram. • When using a dual master cylinder with Disc front, Drum rear combinations you won't need to remove the residual check valve as it only applies pressure to the rear brake line. On dual master cylinders, the large reservoir side is for the disc brakes, and the small reservoir side is for the drum brakes. • Do not use a residual pressure valve with 4 wheel Disc brake systems. The residual pressure will cause the calipers to drag. • An adjustable Proportioning valve allows you to balance the pressure between the front and rear brakes for smooth safe stops. This is a must for disc/drum combinations, as disc brakes require considerably more pressure to operate than drum brakes. Without a properly adjusted proportioning valve, the drum brakes will lock up before the discs do which can result in handling problems. Proportioning valves are also useful on 4-wheel disc or 4-wheel drum brake systems, giving you the ability to compensate for tire size differences, weight distribution, etc. • Make sure that the bleeder valves on the calipers and the power booster point up when installed. Air cannot be fully bled from the system unless the valves are installed in the up position. • If you do not intend to use a power booster, we recommend that you use a dual master cylinder.

Welcome to the forum, I say make it safe to drive and drive it as is. Enjoy it, don;t fall into the trap of pulling it apart (very tempting) and never getting to it. Like Rusty said , take little bites. nice ride,

Mine is not it's about center of the floor. Imagine the new master is mounted to the back of the old master and that's where it will be. I will be looking for a large grommet for the floor , now that you mention it.

Chet it's a EC-444 but they have two types so make sure you tell them the vehicle and clutch configuration. I have a 1951 dodge with fluid drive manual. And no stress, glad I can help, if it really is help.. Here;s the pic of my clutch assembly Don

My pedal is covered with a thick gooey rust inhibitor AKA excess grease I saw your modification for the stop, I like it. My pedal is the one in the background of that pedal pic. I don;t know what you were asking about this in the above prior post "clutch pedal over center spring ".

Yes Don, that looks like the rubber bumper thing, but mine looks a little smaller. I found it listed in a catalog I think it's a "draft seal" . I'm sure if I have a clutch pedal over center spring. Although my old master looks like your master the pedal setup is much , much different. I don;t think the brake pedals themselves would interchange. Also my stock pedal stop was is not adjustable, it was just a cast tab, and I don;t remember if it was hitting the casting in on my master. I didn't check prior.

You've got me Chet. I have not pulled off the front drum yet. PO said they were recently serviced. I do not know the factory configuration. All I can say is that I did specifically ask the guy on the phone about using my factory Drums. That's why I got the residual valve. I'm not sure of the year but when I was searching to do a "home brew" setup any 1" disc/drum (adding res valve) or a drum/drum try a 1966-68. It could also be called a Jeep Master cylinder or ford truck. I have not measured it but it should be a 1" bore?? I apologize if my comment sounded like a statement about it being a mustang master cylinder but, it's definitely not a corvette master. I'm not sure why they said it would not work for you. I had even commented that eventually I would be upgrading to front discs a but didn't have the cash to do that yet. I just listed all the issues I'd had read here and confirmed over the phone when ordering. Who did you speak with? Mark or the other guy(sorry forgot name). It was Mark that I spoke to the second time when I had a question about the included hardware. The "other guy" answered my questions first call and took my order on the second call. Hey for all I know I got screwed here..

Don, I have a 51 so there's only one pedal mounted to my bracket. When I called, I told them I have a fluid drive manual shift and separate brake and clutch pivots. This is a different bracket than yours it's cut for the trans mount.. I believe they have 4-5 different chrysler brackets now. There's maybe a 1/16" side to side play. I'm still using drum/drums the master is a drum/disc master and should have residual valve in it. I have a square rubber bumper on the back side of my floor where the pedals come through. The clutch is there the brake is beat up. My clutch hits this rubber on the up stroke. May brake lines connect on the tranny side.

I did get my ECI bracket and MC today. I am impressed with the quality of the the unit , the welds look great. It's almost installed, due to time constraints(wife/kids) I was unable to finish. I have about 1.5 hours in it and all I have left is to bleed the master, make a new hole in the floor and hook up the lines. Maybe another 1.5 hours. That was removing my old leaking unit also. The only "issues" I had so far is I believe my body may be closer to the frame than the car the bracket was set up for. The unit was a little snug to the body. And I mixed up the location of the rods and the unit was binding up, once I read the directions everything fit fine. The is no pedal stop, but I;m not really bothered with that. I do have to find a pedal rubber stopped thingy I'm just not finding a good source for parts. Overall so far I'm happy with it. This looks like a mustang master and they provided me with a residual valve. bob

Welder series already makes a bracket that might work. It's only $21 if you don;t have the tools to cut and bend thicker metal. You will have to weld it to the frame

Don, I read through the issues you had , before I install anything I'll be checking it over carefully. They did ask if I was still using Drum/ Drum and provided me with a residual valve. Also the told me the outlets will be facing the tranny.